|
garrettweaver
Apr 3, 2009, 12:07 AM
Post #1 of 13
(5206 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2005
Posts: 66
|
Hey everyone,
I have a strange question. How possible do people think it would be to bivy 1 or 2 nights in a comfortable belay seat that is padded and has a back rest? Or better yet has anyone done this? The reason for this question is that in two months I hoping to try some entry level grade IV and V walls. I do not have enough money for a portaledge and some walls may not have suitable ledges or they may be taken by another party. I know the belay seat woukd not be as comfortable as a portaledge, but I have never used one at all so I'm not sure how they feel. Anyways, toss me your opinions.
Garrett
|
|
|
|
|
socalclimber
Apr 3, 2009, 1:32 AM
Post #2 of 13
(5155 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2001
Posts: 2437
|
Go for it! But you're gonna haaaaaaaaaate liiiiiife
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Apr 3, 2009, 1:43 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Apr 3, 2009, 3:05 AM
Post #3 of 13
(5120 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
garrettweaver wrote: Hey everyone, I have a strange question. How possible do people think it would be to bivy 1 or 2 nights in a comfortable belay seat that is padded and has a back rest? Or better yet has anyone done this? The reason for this question is that in two months I hoping to try some entry level grade IV and V walls. I do not have enough money for a portaledge and some walls may not have suitable ledges or they may be taken by another party. I know the belay seat woukd not be as comfortable as a portaledge, but I have never used one at all so I'm not sure how they feel. Anyways, toss me your opinions. Garrett
Recipe for pain 
|
|
|
|
|
Alpine07
Apr 3, 2009, 3:23 AM
Post #4 of 13
(5110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
|
You may have already seen all of this, but Fish has two ledges that are quite a bit less than the BD and Metolius ones: http://fishproducts.com/...g/productlinefs.html The One Night Stand, and the Econoledge. $299 and $269, respectively. I have not used either, in fact i've not used a ledge yet at all, but I thought I would point these two out in case you hadn't seen them. Have fun!
|
|
|
|
|
rschap
Apr 3, 2009, 4:20 AM
Post #5 of 13
(5082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 592
|
I think I’d buy a $20 mesh hammock from Wal-mart before I did that. Just wear your harness as well.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Apr 3, 2009, 5:57 AM
Post #6 of 13
(5054 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
Yeah, spending a night in a belay seat on purpose would be my idea of smart like tractor. There are seriously better options for cheap. On the dirtbag side, sleep with your swami and leg loops on while lounging in a string hammock or a Wallmart special cot slung up on 1" webbing.
OR for more comfortable, swami only options (ie, more comfortable)... On the manufactured side check ebay for a used Fish or A5 ledge. Other options are to go for a Fish econoledge, Fish one-nite-stand, or a manufactured single point hammock (I think there was an A5 hammock on ebay recently... maybe it was a B.A.T.?).
The other option depends on your ability to call in favours, sell ideas, or is directly related to how much tallent you have in making things. Yes you can make your own ledge... a krustyledge, or something more along the line of what is commercially available. If you have the means it can be half the price of a ledge... if you don't, well it costs about the same as a ledge with 1,000,000,000,000,000 times the effort.
If you're thinking about open bivi's in a seat I'm assuming your plan is in a good weather window in a dry place... at least for your sake I hope it is.
Hey, it can be done. Guys like Billy Davidson used to sleep in slings, by choice... then again Billy was... well, lets just say that he ended up living the life of a nomad on teh west coast, paddeling a kayak, living off the land, and surviving like royalty (in a have everything your honestly "need" way) for years... basically he was tougher than all of the users of Rockclimbing.com combined.
Personally, I really like ledges, or flat ground.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Apr 3, 2009, 6:25 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Apr 3, 2009, 6:01 AM
Post #7 of 13
(5051 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
Rather than distilling opinions from rc posts (although all have been spot on - it would suck), try it from a tree or 10' up at your favorite crag or a rafter in your garage or basement for a night, or the few hours you can stand it.
Just remember that a painful, uncomfortable night's sleep just contributes to going slower the next day.....
|
|
|
|
|
Alpine07
Apr 4, 2009, 3:10 PM
Post #8 of 13
(4973 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
|
Has anyone used the Fish One Night Stand? Looks like a good option for short summer climbs in good weather.
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Apr 4, 2009, 4:34 PM
Post #9 of 13
(4942 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
Garret, there are two outfits near Yosemite that will rent portaledges by the day, route, week, whatever. I do not have a link, but it shouldn't be too hard to find online. Search. It only cost around $20 to ship mine from Cali to MT, so it may work out to being cheaper than you think. Worth a look?
Bob
edit to add a link:http://home.inreach.com/yorock1/
and this : http://www.bikingzion.com/allrentals&outfitting.html
(This post was edited by xtrmecat on Apr 4, 2009, 6:39 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
garrettweaver
Apr 4, 2009, 7:23 PM
Post #10 of 13
(4907 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2005
Posts: 66
|
hey everyone,
Thanks for the great feedback. Fish products looks awesome!!! The One Night Stand and Econoledge look like great deals, both for under $300, Hurray!!! I think I will save up for a few months and buy one of these, however, which one would be best. It looks like the econoledge is a little larger, but the One Night Stand has daisy attachments and a rope bag. Any thoughts of which is better?
Garrett
|
|
|
|
|
skinner
Apr 4, 2009, 7:58 PM
Post #11 of 13
(4896 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
|
I have spent most of an evening/night unintentionally hanging in one. I have owned several over the years
and still have three to this day. I have one of the original 1972 Chouinard belay seats, a larger, heavy
duty homemade one, and a super light weight silicon nylon/dyneema prototype that was bar-tacked together
for me to test by a local gear shop owner.
I would NOT recommend that you intentionally spend the night or any great length of time hanging in one,
as a matter of fact, a Yates Big Wall harness is much more comfortable then and of the standard belay seats.
On harnesses with smaller swami belts and leg loops, they are great for taking the weight off of your harness
at belay, however there is a better way if you are looking for a cheap alternative to a portaledge.
coastal_climber wrote: Recipe for pain
Couldn't agree more!
rschap wrote: I think I’d buy a $20 mesh hammock from Wal-mart before I did that. Just wear your harness as well.
Agree with this too. In and effort to find a weight efficient bivi method on a semi-alpine climb with a long
approach, we've tried many Wal-Mart type solutions with mixed degrees of success, and some very painful and
scary results as well.
The one the worked the best all around (weight, comfort, cost) was a $12 string hammock. Not the ones with
the wooden spreader bars, but the simple string type with metal shoe inserts within the clip in points at
either end, or metal rings.
I have two of these which are so small that you can literally stuff one into a cardboard toilet paper tube.
Trying to "lay" in one hammock style for extended periods isn't all that comfortable either, but if you use
it to sit in, with one end acting a back rest, and your legs hanging off of either side, or sit in it sideways
with your legs hanging out, it is so surprisingly comfortable that you will actually get some sleep, rather
then just enduring the night.
It goes without saying but, doing with without wearing a harness and being tied in, is just a bad idea. Tie
yourself of with rope or at least a sling/daisy and a screamer, rather then clipping in with just a sling or
daisy, so if the roll out during a puppy-dream because you were so comfortable,
so you don't end up shock loading your anchor 
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Apr 4, 2009, 8:05 PM
Post #12 of 13
(4893 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
Keep in mind that the bottom (compressed materials) side of a hammock is much cooler than the top in cool weather.
|
|
|
|
|
pbcowboy77
Apr 5, 2009, 1:52 AM
Post #13 of 13
(4830 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2002
Posts: 574
|
If it were between the 2 fish ledges I'd go with the econoledge.
But if I were you I'd keep my eye on ebay.
I scored my old style BD single ledge for 250 on ebay, with a fly...
Keep your eyes peeled and you'll find a deal. A portaledge is NOT something you want to cheep out on.
|
|
|
|
|
|
