|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Apr 6, 2009, 6:41 PM
Post #1 of 80
(4150 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
Well I had an interesting experience at one of the local crag yesterday. Let me set the scene, is about 35 F and we are standing in 3-4 inches of snow. I have two friends with me that are first timers outside, blah blah.
So on the climb next to us there is a group of four, one has already lead the 5.7 sport and set the top rope. This girl is just bitching at the guys, about how she pulls 5.10s in the gym all day and just because she is a girl they start her on a 5.7 and how insulting it is.
My head is going to start hurting soon if she keeps that up.
So she is up next to climb. From the get go she is whining about there no holds no feet and how the hell do I know where to move. And I quote “someone should really come up here and paint the holds so people can tell where the route is” this too hard I can’t tell where I am supposed to go. At the first bolt hanger…
Without the colored tape she can’t climb a route. I mean use your brain one in a while.
Is it me or are there more and more climbers that check there brains in at the gym and forget to get back em when they leave. Please share you stories.
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Apr 6, 2009, 6:45 PM
Post #2 of 80
(4133 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
This is old. The weather is fantastic, go climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Apr 6, 2009, 6:45 PM
Post #3 of 80
(4131 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
I can sympathize with her. At my local crag, they at least paint the big holds on the popular climbs white.
(P.O.D., anyone?)
|
|
|
|
|
darkgift06
Apr 6, 2009, 6:56 PM
Post #4 of 80
(4095 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2009
Posts: 492
|
Paint on the rocks....??
reading that just left a bad taste in my mouth...
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Apr 6, 2009, 6:59 PM
Post #5 of 80
(4086 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
And then some people have the nerve to bring brushes to try to clean the holds off ...
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Apr 6, 2009, 7:03 PM
Post #7 of 80
(4078 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
But the problem is you're only using white. How can they tell which holds are on which climb if you always use the same color of ch...I mean paint?
|
|
|
|
|
rockandlice
Apr 6, 2009, 7:25 PM
Post #8 of 80
(4039 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2008
Posts: 622
|
That white paint is just such a PIA though. It's soooo strange. I mean seriously, why after a hard rain does it simply disappear off some routes but not others? We totally need to get this issue ironed out.
I have another major issue I'd like to introduce here. It seems to me guidebooks are a terrible waste of paper and money. Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route?
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Apr 6, 2009, 7:28 PM
Post #9 of 80
(4018 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
rockandlice wrote: Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route?
Because, with climbers of all different heights, they are still arguing over what height eye level should be at.
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Apr 6, 2009, 7:31 PM
Post #10 of 80
(4004 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
rockandlice wrote: I have another major issue I'd like to introduce here. It seems to me guidebooks are a terrible waste of paper and money. Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route?
This is truly a brilliant idea! I propose combining it with painting each route sequence with dotted lines using the road paint traditionally used to make the yellow lines on the road. That stuff will stick around a lot longer and solve a whole ton of confusion at the crag.
|
|
|
|
|
rockandlice
Apr 6, 2009, 7:37 PM
Post #11 of 80
(3981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2008
Posts: 622
|
wonderwoman wrote: This is truly a brilliant idea! I propose combining it with painting each route sequence with dotted lines using the road paint traditionally used to make the yellow lines on the road. That stuff will stick around a lot longer and solve a whole ton of confusion at the crag.
Heck yeah! I mean really, the more attention you can give your route the more popular it will be. Haven't people noticed that the routes where the holds have a lot more white paint on them get climbed more and talked about more? They also enjoy the added benefit of receiving a dramatically higher number of route reviews in the rc.com crag database. That just solidifes the pure awesomeness.
|
|
|
|
|
verticon
Apr 6, 2009, 7:39 PM
Post #12 of 80
(3974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2005
Posts: 223
|
bill413 wrote: But the problem is you're only using white. How can they tell which holds are on which climb if you always use the same color of ch...I mean paint?
I guess they've solved this issue. The scientists created more colors (others than white) and they are available on the market. The problem is when the ch... paint matches the color of the rock. One must pay attention to use a contrasting color, or the n00bs will be clueless.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Apr 6, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #13 of 80
(3947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
jeepnphreak wrote: I mean use your brain one in a while.
Oh, the irony.
|
|
|
|
|
bill413
Apr 6, 2009, 7:51 PM
Post #14 of 80
(3943 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
|
wonderwoman wrote: rockandlice wrote: I have another major issue I'd like to introduce here. It seems to me guidebooks are a terrible waste of paper and money. Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route? This is truly a brilliant idea! I propose combining it with painting each route sequence with dotted lines using the road paint traditionally used to make the yellow lines on the road. That stuff will stick around a lot longer and solve a whole ton of confusion at the crag.
I think this is wonderful!
Now, should we color code the gear placements also, so that we know which cam to use?
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Apr 6, 2009, 7:54 PM
Post #15 of 80
(3929 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
bill413 wrote: wonderwoman wrote: rockandlice wrote: I have another major issue I'd like to introduce here. It seems to me guidebooks are a terrible waste of paper and money. Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route? This is truly a brilliant idea! I propose combining it with painting each route sequence with dotted lines using the road paint traditionally used to make the yellow lines on the road. That stuff will stick around a lot longer and solve a whole ton of confusion at the crag. I think this is wonderful! Now, should we color code the gear placements also, so that we know which cam to use?
Definitely. But we'd have to get all the gear manufacturers to start using the same color schemes. And I'd have to have all my cams reslung.
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Apr 6, 2009, 7:57 PM
Post #16 of 80
(3913 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
shimanilami wrote: bill413 wrote: wonderwoman wrote: rockandlice wrote: I have another major issue I'd like to introduce here. It seems to me guidebooks are a terrible waste of paper and money. Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route? This is truly a brilliant idea! I propose combining it with painting each route sequence with dotted lines using the road paint traditionally used to make the yellow lines on the road. That stuff will stick around a lot longer and solve a whole ton of confusion at the crag. I think this is wonderful! Now, should we color code the gear placements also, so that we know which cam to use? Definitely. But we'd have to get all the gear manufacturers to start using the same color schemes. And I'd have to have all my cams reslung.
That's a small price to pay for the sake of efficiency, don't you think?
|
|
|
|
|
justroberto
Apr 6, 2009, 7:58 PM
Post #17 of 80
(3912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876
|
gunkiemike wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: I mean use your brain one in a while. Oh, the irony.
There's another good one in there, too. I'll let you find it on your own.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Apr 6, 2009, 8:02 PM
Post #18 of 80
(3895 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
justroberto wrote: gunkiemike wrote: jeepnphreak wrote: I mean use your brain one in a while. Oh, the irony. There's another good one in there, too. I'll let you find it on your own.
Oh, there's more than one more in there...
|
|
|
|
|
wonderwoman
Apr 6, 2009, 8:02 PM
Post #19 of 80
(3895 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2002
Posts: 4275
|
bill413 wrote: wonderwoman wrote: rockandlice wrote: I have another major issue I'd like to introduce here. It seems to me guidebooks are a terrible waste of paper and money. Why hasn't some genius over at the access fund instituted a standard for route plaques that are mandatorily installed at average eye level that also includes the beta for the entire route? This is truly a brilliant idea! I propose combining it with painting each route sequence with dotted lines using the road paint traditionally used to make the yellow lines on the road. That stuff will stick around a lot longer and solve a whole ton of confusion at the crag. I think this is wonderful! Now, should we color code the gear placements also, so that we know which cam to use?
In the meantime, I'm bringing a sharpie with me to place arrows in code such as BD GREEN HERE and ALIEN YELLOW HERE. Coming soon to a crag near you!
|
|
|
|
|
Parkerkat
Apr 6, 2009, 8:11 PM
Post #20 of 80
(3851 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2008
Posts: 263
|
hahaha... see I don't think it would be any better then someone who had never been to gym who came out for the first time..except they'd probably just start crying....
He stupidity is not the gyms fault...everyone gotta start somewhere, she just has a different point of reference.
Most people figure it out.. .stop ragging on someone trying to learn and let them take their knocks in the school of life!
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Apr 6, 2009, 8:21 PM
Post #21 of 80
(3827 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
We couldn't find the holds when we were learning either.
So no, no big deal.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
rockandlice
Apr 6, 2009, 8:27 PM
Post #22 of 80
(3807 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2008
Posts: 622
|
wonderwoman wrote: In the meantime, I'm bringing a sharpie with me to place arrows in code such as BD GREEN HERE and ALIEN YELLOW HERE. Coming soon to a crag near you!
You're going to need a ton of sharpies for IC!
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
#1 Camalot here-----> l l
(This post was edited by rockandlice on Apr 6, 2009, 8:29 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
ladyscarlett
Apr 6, 2009, 8:28 PM
Post #23 of 80
(3799 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2008
Posts: 376
|
shimanilami wrote: I can sympathize with her. At my local crag, they at least paint the big holds on the popular climbs white. (P.O.D., anyone?)
a la Pinnacles? For sure...didn't even have to use my own to freshen it up for the next people in line!
Lights, I want to see lights like an airplane landing strip, maybe flashing too, I have a short attention span, so making it a complete A/V experience will really help me be a better climber!
Ah well, everyone learns I suppose...
ls
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Apr 6, 2009, 8:29 PM
Post #24 of 80
(3794 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
wonderwoman wrote: In the meantime, I'm bringing a sharpie with me to place arrows in code such as BD GREEN HERE and ALIEN YELLOW HERE. Coming soon to a crag near you!
Tick marks aren't just for holds anymore hehe.
But outside, only the 'experts' are allowed to use arroes and shit to show the route. Us punters aren't permitted to do this, no sir ree bob.
But if you're a name brand climber who's sex life we can't discuss either? TICK THE FUCKING HELL OUT OF THAT ROUTE.
Because, like, if you're a name brand climber you can do no wrong and even if you do we aren't permitted to gossip about it here.
(like a dog with a bone, I am)
Hehe
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
Toast_in_the_Machine
Apr 6, 2009, 8:30 PM
Post #25 of 80
(3793 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 12, 2008
Posts: 5208
|
Maybe the problem wasn't that she was new to the outdoors. Maybe jnp has issues with wimmen climbers.
Re-read the OP and substitute "chicks" where it has "climbers" in the last paragraph, and you'll see what I mean.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
