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rschap
Apr 12, 2009, 8:01 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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I’m just starting on big walls after free climbing and mountaineering for about 7-8 years. I’m designing a portaledge and I was wondering what features some of you experienced big wallers have found valuable over the years. I’ve made a single ledge already so I’m going to make a double this time. I have the basic design now I’m looking at decking it out. I’ve looked at all the commercial ledges (i.e. BD, Fish, Metolius) and I’ve even looked at a few home made jobs so I’ve done some research, I’m just looking for ideas and info, like sewn in daisies, must have or could do without. Also I’m 6’3” 225lbs so I’m making this thing roomy, comfy, and heavy duty and I’m not concerned too much about the weight.
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Lazlo
Apr 12, 2009, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: Sure it would be easier to buy one; I’m not looking for easy. The same thing that draws me to climbing also draws me into making my own gear, it’s a hobby so F-Off…
Heh. I like your sig.
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the_climber
Apr 13, 2009, 3:52 PM
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I'm in the middle of building a double right now too. If you want send me a PM and we can discuss some of the design features.
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pbcowboy77
Apr 13, 2009, 6:12 PM
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Easy setup like the old BD ledge, but with a spreader bar that doesn't stick into your back. I've got the old BD double which has no middle support and if you have 2 in it you end up sliding into the middle and spooning with your smelly partner. I had the single and it wasn't a problem with that but it sucks on the double.
I'd take extra weight with easy setup any day... I love that I can setup my ledge in less time than it takes my partner to take his out of the bag.
Zac
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moof
Apr 13, 2009, 6:52 PM
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It's been discussed before, but making sure the straps have a lot of adjustment range is pretty darned important, and if they were setup in a 3:1 instead of a 2:1 it would be a lot easier/nice to adjust things once you and your fatso partner were already in place.
Daisy chains on the bed under the frame (like the Fish one night stand) would be handy for hanging crap out of the way. I hate ending up with 3-4 stuff sacks on each tension strap.
A light weight extra tether on each wall side corner would be nice for when you have extra anchor points available and want to tie off one or both corners to a second point to stabilize the thing against swinging everytime your fatso partner shifts around.
For a double, a privacy screen so you only have to listen to your partner's business, and not witness it.
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altelis
Apr 13, 2009, 8:24 PM
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moof wrote: It's been discussed before, but making sure the straps have a lot of adjustment range is pretty darned important, and if they were setup in a 3:1 instead of a 2:1 it would be a lot easier/nice to adjust things once you and your fatso partner were already in place. Daisy chains on the bed under the frame (like the Fish one night stand) would be handy for hanging crap out of the way. I hate ending up with 3-4 stuff sacks on each tension strap. A light weight extra tether on each wall side corner would be nice for when you have extra anchor points available and want to tie off one or both corners to a second point to stabilize the thing against swinging everytime your fatso partner shifts around. For a double, a privacy screen so you only have to listen to your partner's business, and not witness it.
Sounds like the easiest way to get what you want in a double ledge is a smaller partner!
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pmyche
Apr 13, 2009, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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rschap
Apr 14, 2009, 4:45 AM
Post #8 of 14
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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I am going to order some heavy tent poles from Easton and make it nice and spacious inside or at least as big as my Marmot Sanctum. I’ve been trying to find some of that eVent material for the fly but I’ve had no luck. If I can’t get a hold of that I’m going to use Gore-Tex rip stop and do like the 4 season tents that have zip up vents with mesh. I’m also thinking about having a vent at the top that pops up (like the fly vents on the REI Half Dome) with straps hanging down for cooking.
Pmyche I must say I didn’t think about a pee port but I did consider a poop hole like the old A5s.
I like the Daisy on the under side Moof, I also considered making light ratchets for the leveling straps but I’m not sure yet.
Pbcowboy77 I’ve got that covered but I’m not ready to talk about it yet.
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mtnkid85
Apr 14, 2009, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2005
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rschap wrote: I am going to order some heavy tent poles from Easton and make it nice and spacious inside or at least as big as my Marmot Sanctum. I’ve been trying to find some of that eVent material for the fly but I’ve had no luck. If I can’t get a hold of that I’m going to use Gore-Tex rip stop and do like the 4 season tents that have zip up vents with mesh.
For the eVent you might try contacting some of the smaller gear manufacters like Feathered friends, Wild things, Western mountaineering ect. Ive never tried but Id imagine if they have the matierial they could order in an extra roll for you...
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rschap
Apr 15, 2009, 12:17 AM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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Yeah I kinda know the creator at Loki and a buddy of mine works there; I try not to pull favors unless I have to, besides that buddy already got me a hook up for climbing holds so I already owe him.
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rockforlife
Apr 15, 2009, 12:36 AM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563
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I REALLY think you should find some sort of see through material for the floor. Now tell me that wouldn't be the coolest thing ever!!!
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budman
Apr 17, 2009, 10:51 PM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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The one thing that comes to mind is comfort of my old A5 ledge over all the new ones. The old A5 has four straps making it easy to sit in the middle with your legs over the edge without having the ledge tip from one side to the other. Also own the BD Sky lounger which is a breeze to set up. But it has 6 straps with 2 of them directly in the middle of each side not allowing you sit in the middle with you legs over the side. I know it's not a big thing but a little comfort in stretching your legs and being able to sit up in comfort goes a long way for me. Have considered making a spreader bar for the A5 but I'm only 5'10' and 160 lbs.
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summerprophet
May 11, 2009, 6:38 PM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Jan 17, 2004
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I have built my ledge, and honestly It kicked ass on anything else on the market at the time.
Some notes.
ANCRA buckles are a little heavier, but allow weighted adjustment.
Remember to put in a drain grommet.
1 1/4" .058 wall would be a minimum AL tubing size
for a double.
milling the corners and mounting them to the end bars eliminate any chance of "Hourglassing", but make the disassembled length as long as your ledge is wide.
I have another REALLY nice piece of advice, but if word gets out, it would disappear, PM me if you want it.
J.
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