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Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson
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ClimbitToday


Apr 14, 2009, 9:22 AM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2008
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Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson
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Who climbs hard trad at Draper's. There are a bunch of lines I never see folks getting on and was wondering who in the rockclimbing.com community has climbed the following routes:

Genuine Risk 5.11

F#@#ing A Right Peckerhead 5.11 (not peckerwrecker) 2 pitch

Trial and Error 5.11

Flying Squirrel 5.11

At Jackson:

Applejack Crack 5.11b

The Bolted One 5.11d

Off-width Exam 5.12a

Just curious what others think about these routes. I've lead all of them except off-width exam. I have not redpointed Applejack or Trial and Error.

I think they are all outstanding but stiff for the grade...cruxes all well protected. But all have some questionable areas as far as protection, except the bolted one which protects very well.


shrug7


Apr 14, 2009, 10:54 AM
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Re: [ClimbitToday] Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson [In reply to]
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Flying Squirrel didn't make the latest guide book. I don't know if Eric closed it or what.

But the crux is the 20ish foot roof crack, after that I think it goes 5.7 or 5.8.

Most folks just aid past the roof and go from there. However, the roof (looks) like it would protect well enough.


rock_fencer


Apr 14, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Re: [ClimbitToday] Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson [In reply to]
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Ive tagged the bolted one and applejack with hopes of doing off-width once it dries up this season. I havent really gotten on much hard stuff at drapers. There is one line that is perpetually infested with wasps that i would love to get on.

I dont think they are stiff for the grade at all. I did the bolted one without the bolt two seasons ago and applejack this winter. Both felt reasonable at their given grades. For comparison i onsighted a 11c roof offwidth at RRG but got shut down on inhibitor 5.11a.

Glad to see someone else cranks out gear routes in IL

Edit: for comparison of RRG routes


(This post was edited by rock_fencer on Apr 14, 2009, 11:04 AM)


ken21il


Apr 14, 2009, 11:20 AM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2006
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Re: [rock_fencer] Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson [In reply to]
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has so il been busy yet this year?


ClimbitToday


Apr 14, 2009, 12:12 PM
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Re: [shrug7] Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson [In reply to]
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Flying squirrel is not in the latest gb b/c it's on State Land.

I've led the roof. Pulling the lip is the only "hard" move.


ClimbitToday


Apr 14, 2009, 12:14 PM
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Re: [rock_fencer] Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson [In reply to]
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Rock fencer:

I'd a agee the Jackson falls routes are appropriately rated...actually the bolted one is more like 5.11 b in my opinion.

The stiff ones are Genuine Risk and Trial and Error at Draper's...both are really fun though.


shrug7


Apr 14, 2009, 12:16 PM
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Re: [ClimbitToday] Hard Trad: Draper's Bluff and Jackson [In reply to]
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Ah, didn't know that. thx.


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