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Rappelling sucks.
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jrathfon


Apr 16, 2009, 3:34 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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I got into multipitch/trad climbing just after getting into vertical caving. In caving, you mostly pit bounce, and you get used to trusting a single rope on long raps, jugs, etc. You learn real quick to pad the lip, but in general you usually rap off of not very redundant anchors, almost every cave in the east, you just rap one tree at the lip. So I guess I never developed the fear or rappelling in climbing due to getting in many laps caving.

A few stories come to mind though:
Pulling from Airy Aria (i think, maybe bonnies?) our rope sailed down into a tree, stuck and wrapped around a limb 40ft up, where the tree was only ~ 2" thick. My partner led the tree, wrapping slings around key limbs for pro, while simultaneously prussiking the stuck line.

Pulling from Dark Shadows and soaking the rope...

Simul jugging (two juggers 30ft from each other on one strand) out of Ellison's Cave in NW GA. 680' rap/ascend. My partner (30 ft above me) after 45 minutes of jugging (we were the 2nd two person team up the rope), reaches the lip and shrieks, "oh my god the rope!", a few minutes of discussion later (which I could not hear over the roaring waterfall) and I was given the OK to ascend to the lip, but to "NOT BOUNCE", huh? A tiny little crystal had shredded through the edge padding, then 70% of the rope, leaving me (and previously my partner) hanging on 30% of the core strands, that's 2 people, 50+ lbs of gear, and 680 ft of 11mm caving static... YIKES!

And, a bail from Moby Grape on Cannon from the 8th pitch, after dark, moonless night, with a pretty good storm hitting us. You have to love leaning back onto 2 nuts in a flake... Not knowing what anchor you will find next and whether or not you can touch the wall again before the rope runs out after passing a huge roof. Too bad the first five parties (all of whom bailed after 7 hrs on the first three pitches) made our early start into really a 3pm liftoff time.

Rappelling the NRG bridge during "bridge day". They use the 2x2" angle iron of the railings on the catwalk for anchors. The what 1960's iron? They are ~ 16-20 ft sections between posts, and they anchor to the middle of these sections, then lower a 800ft rope. As you jug the line, you can see the railings flexing multiple inches on each bounce, and they've been doing this for how many years? 20? Fatigue? Anyone? And yes, you definitely get the PRO sport rappers decked out in full cammo, with "el cap racks" (24" rappel racks), mutliple walkies, enough ascenders on their belts for a team of 4, rescue specific 10 point harnesses, and about 20 prussik loops daisied all over, adorned like a christmas tree. Oh, and a lead acid hip pack battery for their headlamp on the mid-day rappel...


acorneau


Apr 16, 2009, 3:36 PM
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Re: [kylekienitz] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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"Climbing is an art form. Rappelling is a mode of transportation."
-Unknown

Rappelling doesn't bother me at all. It's just another technique I use when I need to get down.


dingus


Apr 16, 2009, 3:42 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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Interesting comment from the Unknown Climbing...

at one point I might have agreed. Then I started helping on rare occasion with long wilderness first ascent opportunities and I have worked with a Master climber.

Watching this dude take the lead on some virgin raps?

Definitely high art form... and an excellent mode of transportation!

DMT


hansundfritz


Apr 16, 2009, 3:50 PM
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Re: [kylekienitz] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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Don't like rapping too much -- Uberfall all the way for me.

Once stopped a teenaged sport rapper from rapping off the end of his rope at Great Falls. He didn't even say thanks. I think he was too busy thinking about whether he was going to scrape the crap out of his pants or just throw his underwear away.

Also once had a scary rap off the front of Seneca in a powerful thunderstorm. Happy to reach the ground that day.


shoo


Apr 16, 2009, 3:55 PM
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Re: [dingus] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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I was climbing at Ragged Mountain last weekend, trying to find one of the smaller areas (Owl's Lair) which get sun in the morning. I came across a couple of guys and asked if they knew if Owl's Lair was further down the trail. One dude answered, "You mean where they do all the rappeling?"

I kept walking.


petsfed


Apr 16, 2009, 4:37 PM
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Re: [kylekienitz] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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I've always found that sport rappellers do it because of the fact that spec-ops military types also rappel, often in the classic "aussy style". But here's the problem: the rappelling is a necessary evil, not an end unto itself. Its like wanting to be a NASCAR mechanic, so you recreationally change your oil.


acorneau


Apr 16, 2009, 4:58 PM
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Re: Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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Here's a new low:

===

Experience The Extreme!
Quantum Leap Mobile Rappelling Tower

This Mobile rappelling tower is a 24’ tall vertical trampoline. The rider puts on a standard rock climbing harness and is hoisted to the top of the tower by a fully-redundant hauling/lowering system. Then the rider descends rapidly, bouncing off the vertical trampoline. When the rider touches targets on the trampoline, alarms sound and the rider is partially re-hoisted for an extended descent. It’s a really radical ride!"


http://www.quantumrock.com/rappelTower.html


dingus


Apr 16, 2009, 5:01 PM
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Re: [acorneau] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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I can see some fat doof up there (maybe ME!) bouncing out, losing balance, toppling over and smacking his fat head (maybe MINE) into that fat red pole.

Does look like a yipee! kinda thing though, like those bunji-assisted trampoline setups you see at county fairs and ag shows.

DMT


zibircut


Apr 17, 2009, 4:24 PM
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Re: [kylekienitz] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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"You are a climber! I did rappelling once."

"You are an oscar winner! I was a tomato in the vegetable patch in a school play, once."


desertwanderer81


Apr 17, 2009, 4:29 PM
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Re: [shoo] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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shoo wrote:
I was climbing at Ragged Mountain last weekend, trying to find one of the smaller areas (Owl's Lair) which get sun in the morning. I came across a couple of guys and asked if they knew if Owl's Lair was further down the trail. One dude answered, "You mean where they do all the rappeling?"

I kept walking.

The best is when they take up climbing routes rappeling so that you can't climb.....


Partner drector


Apr 17, 2009, 5:20 PM
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Re: [kylekienitz] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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My first time attached to a rope was when rappelling into Moaning Cavern. it was not a rock climbing thing. There was no climbing and no climbers. It was a spelunking thing and going up and down a rope is normal. It wasn't some rope trick that was frowned on at all like it is in the climbing community.

Heck. It was fun.

I've never rappelled off a multi-pitch route before and have not had to bail. I can imagine that that much rappelling and in that type of situation, it might not be fun at all. Bailing off a route in bad conditions and rappelling for the fun of it or to get to the end of the rope in some cave are just not the same thing.

Dave


skovar


Apr 17, 2009, 5:49 PM
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Re: [dingus] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Oh its annoying!

I was just thinking though...

there is a tremendous sense of ... relief! When you get down a committing series of raps. But at least for me, at times, there has also been a tremendous sense of .... satisfaction. Of a job well done.

Up in the high mountains with darkness or weather approaching, or on us... first ascents, trade walls, blah blah some serious frigging raps. And not always 'uncomplicated' either. Some of them involve copious amounts of down climbing, route finding and anchor building.

You can get seriously fucked if you do something wrong. But you can also shine.

I've been with teams of climbers oin summits, where every member has many years if not decades of experience and yet no one seems to want to take the lead on that virgin rappel over the backside.

And then a commender rises. She may not have been the strongest climber on the route, or the most stylish leader. But she's part climber part mechanic part engineer and this shit is her forte.

She takes the lead, checks the pro, rigs the anchors,pull checks, guides her partners in, and then the nail-biting moment -

THE PULL.

And down it comes. Oh shit - heart stopping moment - it hung in a tree and the three of you are on an overhanging wall in the middle of no where.

But some more pulling brings it down and you want to shout for joy, weep with relief.

Except you have 9 more just like it below you and now is not the time for celebration. At least you don't have to crank anymore, but you haven't had water in hours and you can't really smile because it cracks your lips into pieces and hurts like hell.

Alternately gray faced and sunburnt neck, she threads the anchors, rigs up, rigs her backup and down she goes. She cranes this way and that, boldly tying herself off to deal with a tangle.

She disappears below a ledge and a long silence ensues. You can't even look at each other for the stress of it all. Finally?

The PULL TEST!

Without a shout, without comment, she's rigged another anchor, secured and ready for you to go.

Down, down, down you go till finally your heels touch down at the bottom. And then the last pull.

As that last rope plops down into a ragged pile and you start the giant bow sting moves to butterfly coil it, you look at one another - your partners.

And again it hits home just how much trust you put in these people. Its amazing really. And then you glance at her - the engineer, the mechanic, the dreamer.... and you're proud to be there.

Proud.

Raps are dangerous. But they are a necessary part of the gig - part and parcel to climbing. You cannot master climbing if you don't master the descent as well.

[IMG]http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x170/oldclymr/Misc/138-3802_IMG_800x600.jpg[/IMG]

Cheers mates
DMT

thanks man, that was awesome


desertwanderer81


Apr 17, 2009, 6:00 PM
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Re: [drector] Rappelling sucks. [In reply to]
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drector wrote:
My first time attached to a rope was when rappelling into Moaning Cavern. it was not a rock climbing thing. There was no climbing and no climbers. It was a spelunking thing and going up and down a rope is normal. It wasn't some rope trick that was frowned on at all like it is in the climbing community.

Heck. It was fun.

I've never rappelled off a multi-pitch route before and have not had to bail. I can imagine that that much rappelling and in that type of situation, it might not be fun at all. Bailing off a route in bad conditions and rappelling for the fun of it or to get to the end of the rope in some cave are just not the same thing.

Dave

You should know better than to call it spelunking :p ;)

And yeah, there is something special about that first 90' rap through a waterfall into a big neat cave!

I think a lot of it has to do with attitude. Your rap was the start of your trip and your gateway to much fun. When climbing, your rap is the end of your fun.

In caving, it's the accent that's a PITA and the more dangerous part. Conversely when finishing a multi-pitch climb, finding that next belay station and being a couple hundred feet up in the air and praying everything goes off without a hitch is very stressful, and not in the fun exciting way.

PS, which grotto were you caving with?

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