Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Portaledge Ideas
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


rschap


Apr 12, 2009, 1:01 PM
Post #1 of 14 (7012 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 592

Portaledge Ideas
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Iím just starting on big walls after free climbing and mountaineering for about 7-8 years. Iím designing a portaledge and I was wondering what features some of you experienced big wallers have found valuable over the years. Iíve made a single ledge already so Iím going to make a double this time. I have the basic design now Iím looking at decking it out. Iíve looked at all the commercial ledges (i.e. BD, Fish, Metolius) and Iíve even looked at a few home made jobs so Iíve done some research, Iím just looking for ideas and info, like sewn in daisies, must have or could do without. Also Iím 6í3Ē 225lbs so Iím making this thing roomy, comfy, and heavy duty and Iím not concerned too much about the weight.


Lazlo


Apr 12, 2009, 2:10 PM
Post #2 of 14 (6984 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Sure it would be easier to buy one; Iím not looking for easy. The same thing that draws me to climbing also draws me into making my own gear, itís a hobby so F-OffÖ

Heh. I like your sig.


the_climber


Apr 13, 2009, 8:52 AM
Post #3 of 14 (6884 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 8, 2003
Posts: 6142

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm in the middle of building a double right now too. If you want send me a PM and we can discuss some of the design features.


Partner pbcowboy77


Apr 13, 2009, 11:12 AM
Post #4 of 14 (6860 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 574

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Easy setup like the old BD ledge, but with a spreader bar that doesn't stick into your back. I've got the old BD double which has no middle support and if you have 2 in it you end up sliding into the middle and spooning with your smelly partner. I had the single and it wasn't a problem with that but it sucks on the double.

I'd take extra weight with easy setup any day... I love that I can setup my ledge in less time than it takes my partner to take his out of the bag.


Zac


moof


Apr 13, 2009, 11:52 AM
Post #5 of 14 (6852 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's been discussed before, but making sure the straps have a lot of adjustment range is pretty darned important, and if they were setup in a 3:1 instead of a 2:1 it would be a lot easier/nice to adjust things once you and your fatso partner were already in place.

Daisy chains on the bed under the frame (like the Fish one night stand) would be handy for hanging crap out of the way. I hate ending up with 3-4 stuff sacks on each tension strap.

A light weight extra tether on each wall side corner would be nice for when you have extra anchor points available and want to tie off one or both corners to a second point to stabilize the thing against swinging everytime your fatso partner shifts around.

For a double, a privacy screen so you only have to listen to your partner's business, and not witness it.


altelis


Apr 13, 2009, 1:24 PM
Post #6 of 14 (6824 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [moof] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

moof wrote:
It's been discussed before, but making sure the straps have a lot of adjustment range is pretty darned important, and if they were setup in a 3:1 instead of a 2:1 it would be a lot easier/nice to adjust things once you and your fatso partner were already in place.

Daisy chains on the bed under the frame (like the Fish one night stand) would be handy for hanging crap out of the way. I hate ending up with 3-4 stuff sacks on each tension strap.

A light weight extra tether on each wall side corner would be nice for when you have extra anchor points available and want to tie off one or both corners to a second point to stabilize the thing against swinging everytime your fatso partner shifts around.

For a double, a privacy screen so you only have to listen to your partner's business, and not witness it.

Sounds like the easiest way to get what you want in a double ledge is a smaller partner!SlySly


pmyche


Apr 13, 2009, 1:57 PM
Post #7 of 14 (6806 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160

Post deleted by pmyche [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


rschap


Apr 13, 2009, 9:45 PM
Post #8 of 14 (6752 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 592

Re: [pmyche] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am going to order some heavy tent poles from Easton and make it nice and spacious inside or at least as big as my Marmot Sanctum. Iíve been trying to find some of that eVent material for the fly but Iíve had no luck. If I canít get a hold of that Iím going to use Gore-Tex rip stop and do like the 4 season tents that have zip up vents with mesh. Iím also thinking about having a vent at the top that pops up (like the fly vents on the REI Half Dome) with straps hanging down for cooking.

Pmyche I must say I didnít think about a pee port but I did consider a poop hole like the old A5s.

I like the Daisy on the under side Moof, I also considered making light ratchets for the leveling straps but Iím not sure yet.


Pbcowboy77 Iíve got that covered but Iím not ready to talk about it yet.


mtnkid85


Apr 14, 2009, 1:44 PM
Post #9 of 14 (6694 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 18, 2005
Posts: 221

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rschap wrote:
I am going to order some heavy tent poles from Easton and make it nice and spacious inside or at least as big as my Marmot Sanctum. Iíve been trying to find some of that eVent material for the fly but Iíve had no luck. If I canít get a hold of that Iím going to use Gore-Tex rip stop and do like the 4 season tents that have zip up vents with mesh.

For the eVent you might try contacting some of the smaller gear manufacters like Feathered friends, Wild things, Western mountaineering ect. Ive never tried but Id imagine if they have the matierial they could order in an extra roll for you...


rschap


Apr 14, 2009, 5:17 PM
Post #10 of 14 (6649 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 592

Re: [mtnkid85] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah I kinda know the creator at Loki and a buddy of mine works there; I try not to pull favors unless I have to, besides that buddy already got me a hook up for climbing holds so I already owe him.


rockforlife


Apr 14, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #11 of 14 (6635 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I REALLY think you should find some sort of see through material for the floor. Now tell me that wouldn't be the coolest thing ever!!!


Partner pbcowboy77


Apr 17, 2009, 3:36 PM
Post #12 of 14 (6515 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2002
Posts: 574

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rschap wrote:
Pbcowboy77 Iíve got that covered but Iím not ready to talk about it yet.

You looking at selling this thing? If so I want to talk! I have both the new BD and the old. The New one is big enough for me but the old one even though it's REALLY easy to set up is a inch smaller than me...

I'd buy yet another ledge (I have 3) to have one that is easy setup, big enough for me and doesn't sag in the middle. I don't even care of the about all the other stuff...


Zac


budman


Apr 17, 2009, 3:51 PM
Post #13 of 14 (6506 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The one thing that comes to mind is comfort of my old A5 ledge over all the new ones. The old A5 has four straps making it easy to sit in the middle with your legs over the edge without having the ledge tip from one side to the other. Also own the BD Sky lounger which is a breeze to set up. But it has 6 straps with 2 of them directly in the middle of each side not allowing you sit in the middle with you legs over the side. I know it's not a big thing but a little comfort in stretching your legs and being able to sit up in comfort goes a long way for me. Have considered making a spreader bar for the A5 but I'm only 5'10' and 160 lbs.


summerprophet


May 11, 2009, 11:38 AM
Post #14 of 14 (6194 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 764

Re: [rschap] Portaledge Ideas [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have built my ledge, and honestly It kicked ass on anything else on the market at the time.

Some notes.
ANCRA buckles are a little heavier, but allow weighted adjustment.
Remember to put in a drain grommet.
1 1/4" .058 wall would be a minimum AL tubing size
for a double.
milling the corners and mounting them to the end bars eliminate any chance of "Hourglassing", but make the disassembled length as long as your ledge is wide.

I have another REALLY nice piece of advice, but if word gets out, it would disappear, PM me if you want it.

J.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook