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So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today...
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Rudmin


Apr 22, 2009, 9:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2009
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Re: [desertwanderer81] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
d0nk3yk0n9 wrote:
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
You do NOT need a backup knot when you climb in a gym, and only need about 5-6 inches of tail.

While this is a true statement, some gyms require a backup knot, so you may have to tie something (fishermans or yosemite finish) just to keep them happy. Other gyms are more lenient and don't really care what you use. For example, the gym I climb in has no problems with bowlines but insists upon some sort of backup knot.

Those gyms are ignorant of safe climbing practices.

The insurance providers for those gyms are ignorant of safe climbing practices.

Liability insurance strictly dictates that the gym follow the guidelines set forth in their contract in order to be covered. Different gyms and different insurers have different contracts, but if a gym requires you to have a keeper knot, it probably means that their ass isn't covered if they knowingly allow you to climb without one.


desertwanderer81


Apr 22, 2009, 9:46 PM
Post #27 of 37 (771 views)
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
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Re: [Rudmin] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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I've heard people say this many times.

I'll believe it when I see it.

If it is true, then the insurance companies are insuring an industry they don't understand.


patmay81


Apr 22, 2009, 10:34 PM
Post #28 of 37 (753 views)
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
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Re: [desertwanderer81] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
If it is true, then the insurance companies are insuring an industry they don't understand.
every insurance company insures industries they don't understand! Why is auto insurance higher for a geo tracker convertible than a mazda RX7? The insurance company claims that its because the tracker is more dangerous, and since its a convertible it falls under the "sports car" category!


desertwanderer81


Apr 22, 2009, 10:41 PM
Post #29 of 37 (749 views)
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Re: [patmay81] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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Heh, I moved from a nice gated neighborhood in Las Vegas to a mixed neighborhood with lots of breakins/icey roads in Reno and my insurance went down 1.2k per year.

Go figure.


Johnny_Fang


Apr 22, 2009, 10:49 PM
Post #30 of 37 (745 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 289

Re: [quiteatingmysteak] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:


For all intensive purposes, do this technique when tying in with an 8 gym climbing.

I'm not usually the grammar police, but since Jay didn't point it out, and since I don't want you to embarrass yourself some day...

the proper saying is "for all intents and purposes."

maybe you knew that and you're making a joke like "too much ironing." which would make my response have a lot of ironing and now everyone can mock me and call me grammar n00b.


no_email_entered


Apr 22, 2009, 10:59 PM
Post #31 of 37 (739 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2008
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Re: [Johnny_Fang] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:
For all intensive purposes



(This post was edited by no_email_entered on Apr 22, 2009, 11:01 PM)


quiteatingmysteak


Apr 22, 2009, 11:09 PM
Post #32 of 37 (728 views)
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
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Re: [Johnny_Fang] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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Johnny_Fang wrote:
quiteatingmysteak wrote:


For all intensive purposes, do this technique when tying in with an 8 gym climbing.

I'm not usually the grammar police, but since Jay didn't point it out, and since I don't want you to embarrass yourself some day...

the proper saying is "for all intents and purposes."

maybe you knew that and you're making a joke like "too much ironing." which would make my response have a lot of ironing and now everyone can mock me and call me grammar n00b.


Nope, you quoted me correctly. I was referring to irritated skin.


hafilax


Apr 22, 2009, 11:10 PM
Post #33 of 37 (727 views)
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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Re: [desertwanderer81] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
I've heard people say this many times.

I'll believe it when I see it.

If it is true, then the insurance companies are insuring an industry they don't understand.
Insurance companies only care about the money flow statistics. The root causes of the statistics are immaterial. If they find that gyms that demand the use of a keeper knot have fewer claims then they may insist on keeper knots being part of the policy.


jt512


Apr 23, 2009, 12:02 AM
Post #34 of 37 (703 views)
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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Re: [no_email_entered] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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no_email_entered wrote:
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
For all intensive purposes

And for all intestine purposes:



Jay


billcoe_


Apr 23, 2009, 2:10 AM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [granite_grrl] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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Jetescamilla's 1st post 3 years ago in 2006


jetescamilla wrote:
Ok I didnt know whether to post this under the begginer section or what so please bear with me. I dont think I am a begginer, I have been indoor climbing for over 2 years and have been climbing top rope, outdoors for about 4 months. Just recently I have taken a lead climbing class at my local gym. My question is...

When I am looking on this site at routes how do I know which places are already set up for lead climbing. Is it the term bolts? Or something else. I know I sound dumb, please hold your laughter in. Thanks in advance for your responses.

Is it too late to get a refund for that class? I use to teach, and would have been mortified if you couldn't have the knot and a lot more nailed down before we even saw the rock.


Hammertoes


Apr 24, 2009, 12:14 AM
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Re: [kachoong] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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Please go climb.Wink
In reply to:


Chinchen


Apr 24, 2009, 10:55 PM
Post #37 of 37 (556 views)
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Registered: Apr 11, 2009
Posts: 114

Re: [billcoe_] So my partner decked from the 2nd clip today... [In reply to]
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jetescamilla wrote:
I use to teach, .....

What did you use to teach? Textbooks? Grammar does suck in here.....

Figure 8 with a backup tied close with 3 inches of tail for me....also, had your partner taken that fall at the crag it could have resulted in a serious injury. The second bolt is the one you don't want to screw up.

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