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Tactix23
Apr 30, 2009, 12:31 AM
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They are Evolv demortos size 10. The quality looks fantastic but I'm worried about the size. I am a size 10 1/2 to a size 11, depending on the shoe, so I got these in 10 for performance. They are EXTREMELY tight on me. Like if these were shoes I were trying on at the store for every day shoes, I would laugh and say "wow give me 2 sizes bigger please"
My curls are turned in, mainly the last 4. The big toe is squished pretty good. i know rock climbing shoes should be tight, but I'm just worried if this is going to cause any kind of health concern? Thanks
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ThisSilentDream
Apr 30, 2009, 12:43 AM
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Toes are curling? What kind of climber are you? What are you climbing on? I would say they are probably too tight, but they might stretch a bit after wearing them a bit, or maybe not depends if they are lined. And I don't know off-hand if those are lined. I'd say it sounds like if you are completely miserable, then they are probably too small.
G
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ladyscarlett
Apr 30, 2009, 1:03 AM
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Wow, the evolv demortos are not popular around town, but they are THE shoe for me.
A general rule is about one size smaller, but of course....it depends.
As this is in the Beginners forum, I'm going to guess you're a beginner. As a beginner, your footwork is under construction. Ask yourself, as a beginner, how much pain am I willing to put up with to get the performance I want for my level.
I started with a half size smaller. Now I go a full size smaller. Going a full size smaller for my first pair was not worth the pain, as the increased performance I get from the smaller shoe was irrelevant while learning footwork basics. Didn't even know the techniques that need a higher performance shoe at that time, so what's the point in dealing with that level of pain?
One thing about the Demortos, on the box it says they won't stretch - a lie for me. These suckers stretched out for sure.
My advice, keep the super small ones, and get a second pair half a size to a size bigger. They can go for about $45-$50 a pair, which is comparable to a resole. Then you have one pair for high performance short climbs and a pair for mutlipitch all day in shoes climbs. When the small guys stretch, you can make them your "comfies" and make the old comfies, winter shoes to wear with socks!
have fun good luck, you'll be hobbling for a few weeks regardless!
cheers
ls
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Tactix23
Apr 30, 2009, 1:33 AM
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thanks guys! I am currently very new. I have gone about 3 times so far and I love it! I am extremely good, or at least that is what all the people who work there have told me. My footwork is noob I'm sure, but I have a good idea of the techniques... I currently only do indoor, but will eventually branch out to outdoor climbing. I personally don't think I could go a full size smaller, it wouldn't be possible. I can deal with pain I just don't want to injure my toes like get ingrown toenails or anything.. For the record, climbing shoes must fit me oddly because when I was renting shoes at the gym I was using like size 12-12/12 just so my feet would fit comfortably.. But like I said, I can take the pain
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Craggmire
Apr 30, 2009, 2:39 AM
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As a beginner you want them to be snug but comfortable. Unfortunately you're stuckwith you're demortos as I can almost promise you the shop you got them from will not let you return them(likewise with any climbing gear). Although it usually doesn't take long for someone to realize the benefits of sizing down (at least for me). it depends on the shoe also my Anasazi VCS's are sized down 1.5 sizes from my street size and I can't wear them for very long but I know my foot is solid no matter where I put it so they are my Bouldering and hard Sport shoes. I have some cheap La Sportiva Nagos that are the same size but fit my feet pretty comfortably but they are also leather so they tend to strech with use.since i could wear them all day they're my trad shoes. I have a pair of Anasazi Verdes as well and they're sized down one size from my street size they're snug but don't kill my feet and they're pretty solid so they're my go to shoe.
Now if you have the option I would say find a cheap cheap pair of shoes that fit you comfortably and set aside the Demortos until you're ready for performance fit, they look like a really cool shoe.
Or you can stick it out taking them off between problems and lines and they are leather and unlined so you can get them to stretch a bit which may help. I would say that if it were a asymetrical shoe your middle toe is larger than then big toe but the Demortos are a symetrical toe box so thats not them problem.
Whatever you decide to do keep in mind your first pair of shoes don't usually last very long unless you naturally have decent footwork.
As for your question about health concerns the only thing i've ever gotten are gross looking callouses from down sizing my shoes but they are actually nice to have my friends feet actually got a bit smaller from down sizing shoes we haven't quite figured that out but other than than nothing I know of.
Good luck! Cheers!
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Terry2124
May 1, 2009, 2:40 AM
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Tactix23 wrote: They are Evolv demortos size 10. The quality looks fantastic but I'm worried about the size. I am a size 10 1/2 to a size 11, depending on the shoe, so I got these in 10 for performance. They are EXTREMELY tight on me. Like if these were shoes I were trying on at the store for every day shoes, I would laugh and say "wow give me 2 sizes bigger please" My curls are turned in, mainly the last 4. The big toe is squished pretty good. i know rock climbing shoes should be tight, but I'm just worried if this is going to cause any kind of health concern? Thanks
They might be too tight
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thepuddlestore
May 1, 2009, 9:45 PM
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so do you only boulder? if you ever plan on cranking out pitches outside, i'd recommend you sell the demortos and get something bigger, or just get them in a bigger size . . . you have to have your shoes on for more than 10 mins at a time to get better at climbing
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edge
May 1, 2009, 10:01 PM
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Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch.
As a beginner, it has been mentioned that you should focus on footwork. If the shoes are mildly uncomfortable, then they may be OK for that. If all you can think of when you have them on is pain, then you really do need a larger size.
Many advanced climbers deal with tight shoes and pain as a matter of habit, but beginners should really get used to seeing and weighting their feet. In fact, I have often given youth climbers that I coach rubber bands with jingle bells on them to put over their insteps. If they can hear their feet moving then that is an audible reminder that they are not focusing on footwork.
Quiet, precise footwork is key, and for you, too tight shoes may not be advantageous at this point.
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ladyscarlett
May 1, 2009, 10:53 PM
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edge wrote: Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch.
So both pairs that I have of these demortos have indeed stretched.
They do stink too, but what factors would make this material stretch if they aren't supposed to?
I guess I'm asking....am I treating these guys wrong and that's why they are stretching?
cheers
ls
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edge
May 1, 2009, 11:04 PM
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ladyscarlett wrote: edge wrote: Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch. So both pairs that I have of these demortos have indeed stretched. They do stink too, but what factors would make this material stretch if they aren't supposed to? I guess I'm asking....am I treating these guys wrong and that's why they are stretching? cheers ls
Evolv uses vegan materials, and I have never known them to actually "stretch."
This is not the same, however, as "conform," and I do know that over time they will conform to your feet and thus feel much more comfortable.
Any shoe will pretty much do this; some more than others. Unlined leather shoes will stretch all over the place, while lined or synthetic shoes are less likely to expand.
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ladyscarlett
May 1, 2009, 11:12 PM
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edge wrote: ladyscarlett wrote: edge wrote: Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch. So both pairs that I have of these demortos have indeed stretched. They do stink too, but what factors would make this material stretch if they aren't supposed to? I guess I'm asking....am I treating these guys wrong and that's why they are stretching? cheers ls Evolv uses vegan materials, and I have never known them to actually "stretch." This is not the same, however, as "conform," and I do know that over time they will conform to your feet and thus feel much more comfortable. Any shoe will pretty much do this; some more than others. Unlined leather shoes will stretch all over the place, while lined or synthetic shoes are less likely to expand.
Ok fair play. I understand that science says that stretch won't happen. It's just that with the old comfies can now fit a pair of socks! And the laces are cinched much tighter than they used to be, especially around the toe box. Thought maybe I was treating them wrong.
Maybe they are just conforming so they don't have to put up with my efforts to smear, heh
cheers
ls
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edge
May 1, 2009, 11:22 PM
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ladyscarlett wrote: edge wrote: ladyscarlett wrote: edge wrote: Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch. So both pairs that I have of these demortos have indeed stretched. They do stink too, but what factors would make this material stretch if they aren't supposed to? I guess I'm asking....am I treating these guys wrong and that's why they are stretching? cheers ls Evolv uses vegan materials, and I have never known them to actually "stretch." This is not the same, however, as "conform," and I do know that over time they will conform to your feet and thus feel much more comfortable. Any shoe will pretty much do this; some more than others. Unlined leather shoes will stretch all over the place, while lined or synthetic shoes are less likely to expand. Ok fair play. I understand that science says that stretch won't happen. It's just that with the old comfies can now fit a pair of socks! And the laces are cinched much tighter than they used to be, especially around the toe box. Thought maybe I was treating them wrong. Maybe they are just conforming so they don't have to put up with my efforts to smear, heh cheers ls
I admit to relying on half of what Evolv says and half of my own experience.
I have huge (size 13) flippers, and I own 4 pair of their shoes. None of them have "stretched" for me, and as a result one pair of Predators are almost unusable for me. I am particularly sensitive to toe pain ever since major frostbite in 1982, but can suck it up for a short while.
That is why I have enjoyed Evolvs to this point; what I try on is what I get.
If I am wrong, well, I have no personal experience with that...
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tigerlilly
May 2, 2009, 1:34 AM
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ladyscarlett wrote: edge wrote: Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch. So both pairs that I have of these demortos have indeed stretched. They do stink too, but what factors would make this material stretch if they aren't supposed to? I guess I'm asking....am I treating these guys wrong and that's why they are stretching? cheers ls
The original grey Demortos were synthetic, which holds an odor and stretches little. The new yellowish-greenish ones are unlined leather, so they may stretch more. Which do you have?
I've been eyeing the Demortos, since I do well in straight-lasted shoes, but I have very narrow feet. I haven't found any to try on in my size.
Kathy
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Tactix23
May 2, 2009, 11:54 AM
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thepuddlestore wrote: so do you only boulder? if you ever plan on cranking out pitches outside, i'd recommend you sell the demortos and get something bigger, or just get them in a bigger size . . . you have to have your shoes on for more than 10 mins at a time to get better at climbing
I'm currently only rocking an indoor gym membership. I will eventually get into bouldering but I happened to get into the sport through indoor so hopefully by the end of this summer I'll have seen some new rocks in some new places :)
Very exciting time for me. I'm thinking of getting a motorcycle and just taking a day and riding somewhere awesome to climb every now and then
As for the shoes, I plan on wearing them with no socks and deodorant powder on my feet.I woon't be able to tell how unbearable they are until I actually climb in them. If they are BAD I will have to sell them I guess since I got them on sale at backcountryoutlet and that was their biggest size. Bummer!
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ladyscarlett
May 4, 2009, 6:05 PM
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tigerlilly wrote: ladyscarlett wrote: edge wrote: Because of the materials Evolv uses, you should not expect these to stretch. They will stink to high heaven, but will not stretch. So both pairs that I have of these demortos have indeed stretched. They do stink too, but what factors would make this material stretch if they aren't supposed to? I guess I'm asking....am I treating these guys wrong and that's why they are stretching? cheers ls The original grey Demortos were synthetic, which holds an odor and stretches little. The new yellowish-greenish ones are unlined leather, so they may stretch more. Which do you have? I've been eyeing the Demortos, since I do well in straight-lasted shoes, but I have very narrow feet. I haven't found any to try on in my size. Kathy
I have the old grey ones. I feel that I do best in the symmetrical last as my feet are very rectangular and my second toe is as long as my big toe. I was able to find them for fairly cheap ($45) in a size 4 (small feet!) online, but had to call in as the size wasn't advertised. In stock, but not posted on the net.
I will say they definitely stretched, mind you, with the laces, they adjusted and tighten well, and it did take an entire season winter to winter for them to stretch enough to tighten the laces right up in the toe box.
I like these shoes a lot, but I recognize that I have unusual feet. Plus I'm a beginner, so my footwork can be pretty pitiful. I'm sure I'm not using them to their fullest potential!
Cheers!
ls
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TJGoSurf
May 5, 2009, 2:22 PM
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I have found evolv's to be closer to a normal shoe size than others. I wear mine for slab and long easy pitches. My sportiva solutions are 2 sizes smaller.
First pair of shoes are learning shoes, my 5.10 coyotes are still laced up every once in a blue moon, but I climb so much they wore out in 4 months.
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Tactix23
May 7, 2009, 12:32 AM
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Okay so update..
I tried wearing the size 10 demortos and it was just brutal. I am by no means a weakling or baby so I can only surmise that something is weird about my feet.
I wear size 10.5 street but when I first rented shoes, the only size that was comfortably and tight was about a 12 or 12/12
The 10 demorto was BRUTAL on my feet. I climbed in them for 2 hours last night. They still hurt now 24 hours later. My toes were scrunched so badly that I couldn't do any toe holds because the pain was pretty bad. My friend who is shoe size 10 says his are tight but comfortable
I ended up talking to a local climber (guy was like 50 years old) and he told me HE too was wearing size 12 1/2 because rock climbing shoes don't fit him right
I just called up Eastern Mountain sports and the guy said to me that my "toes were supposed to be curled in and that it hurt because they weren't used to it" and that I should never be 2 sizes up from my street shoe. But I read plenty of reviews with people who got the demortos in a size 1/2 lower than street and they say it's "tight but comfortable"
Meanwhile I couldn't even walk properly across the gym nor could I bare to stand on my toes.
What gives!!!?!
(This post was edited by Tactix23 on May 7, 2009, 12:33 AM)
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ladyscarlett
May 7, 2009, 1:07 AM
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Tactix23 wrote: Okay so update.. I tried wearing the size 10 demortos and it was just brutal. I am by no means a weakling or baby so I can only surmise that something is weird about my feet. I wear size 10.5 street but when I first rented shoes, the only size that was comfortably and tight was about a 12 or 12/12 The 10 demorto was BRUTAL on my feet. I climbed in them for 2 hours last night. They still hurt now 24 hours later. My toes were scrunched so badly that I couldn't do any toe holds because the pain was pretty bad. My friend who is shoe size 10 says his are tight but comfortable I ended up talking to a local climber (guy was like 50 years old) and he told me HE too was wearing size 12 1/2 because rock climbing shoes don't fit him right I just called up Eastern Mountain sports and the guy said to me that my "toes were supposed to be curled in and that it hurt because they weren't used to it" and that I should never be 2 sizes up from my street shoe. But I read plenty of reviews with people who got the demortos in a size 1/2 lower than street and they say it's "tight but comfortable" Meanwhile I couldn't even walk properly across the gym nor could I bare to stand on my toes. What gives!!!?!
Just a beginner myself, but it sounds like the Demortos might not be for you! It happens....
Also the dude from the shop, though he may be an "expert" doesn't really know your feet like you do. Soooo, my suggestion would be to get the size that fits like a skiboot or snowboarding boot, snug just to the point of distinct discomfort - not pain, but distinct discomfort. If in a few months if you find that they get too big, or you need tighter shoes cause you've improved to the point of needing higher performance, then you'll know what your looking for and can play the field.
You'll be getting many pairs of shoes throughout your climbing career, so if the first ones aren't perfect, well the subsequent ones will be better.
good luck!
ls
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Craggmire
May 7, 2009, 1:19 AM
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you could try putting some hot water in you tub putting your shoes on standing in the tub for awhile and wear them around as long as you can bare it. It may give you a little stretch. Works with some leather shoes doesn't work with some. But hey you spent all that dough on them might as well give it a run.
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Tactix23
May 7, 2009, 1:35 AM
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thanks for the reply guys. I actually just returned them and will be going to the EMS store to try on my new pair... Unfortunetly I will be spending more like a 100 bucks now because I don't want madrock shoes, unless I get the 5.10 coyotes. They have the defy and pontas so I will check into those
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pijh
May 7, 2009, 2:08 AM
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So you just returned your shoes... but I thought I would chime in anyways in case others are in the same boat... from my experience it is necessary to buy shoes ridiculously tight and let them stretch or "conform" to your foot.
Don't let people tell you that synthetics or lined shoes won't stretch. They stretch a lot (but less than leather). My rule is to buy shoes as small as you can get onto your feet. (ignore what they feel like once you get them on).
I have 5 pairs of shoes and all of them have stretched to perfection. (This includes a pair of jets that are like 95% rubber).
Also - don't be a baby about the pain. I know it hurts and you have to walk around on the sides of your feet but they will be perfect when they stretch. I know 4 people that bought shoes that were "comfortable" and they all regret it now because their shoes are sloppy.
(This post was edited by pijh on May 7, 2009, 2:09 AM)
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seatbeltpants
May 7, 2009, 2:15 AM
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i've been climbing for a bit over a year and have been through a few shoe issues - following the advice of dudes on shops who tell you to wear super tight shoes didn't work for me at all, and i had numb toes for days after i last wore that particular pair...
try a few different brands and find ones which fit your foot. some are wider than others, they have different shaped toes etc. you can't decide what you want before you try them on, and buying a shoe because someone else recommends it regardless of whether it actually fits your foot is not a good call, in my limited experience.
snugly fitting but not painful works for me, and remember to pay attention to the fit of the heel.
steve
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Tactix23
May 7, 2009, 2:41 AM
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pijh wrote: So you just returned your shoes... but I thought I would chime in anyways in case others are in the same boat... from my experience it is necessary to buy shoes ridiculously tight and let them stretch or "conform" to your foot. Don't let people tell you that synthetics or lined shoes won't stretch. They stretch a lot (but less than leather). My rule is to buy shoes as small as you can get onto your feet. (ignore what they feel like once you get them on). I have 5 pairs of shoes and all of them have stretched to perfection. (This includes a pair of jets that are like 95% rubber). Also - don't be a baby about the pain. I know it hurts and you have to walk around on the sides of your feet but they will be perfect when they stretch. I know 4 people that bought shoes that were "comfortable" and they all regret it now because their shoes are sloppy.
I wasn't being a baby. I was trying to be intelligent about it. How the hell can I work on my footwork if I can't even think straight because of the mind numbing pain? I'm all for tight shoes don't get me wrong, but my toes were literally curled inwards pretty bad. Not to mention I have odd shaped toes that are LONG. I don't see how a tight but bearable shoe would be any less beneficial than a shoe that is way too small. You're either good at climbing or you are not IMO. I should be able to fit my toes into a toe hold without excruciating pain. I mean I'm a noob but like I said, I'm pretty perplexed as to how a shoe WAY too small would be a vast difference over a shoe that is small
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Tactix23
May 7, 2009, 2:43 AM
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maybe I'll lose 50 pounds too so I can be feather light up the rocks 
just kidding
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Craggmire
May 7, 2009, 3:35 AM
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good call take your time, spend a little more and get a shoe you'll be super happy with Coyotes are a decent bet. 5.10 Spires seem to be a great shoe for people who have troubles with absolutely every other shoe and they're still five tens with stealth so they'll do what they need to and they're right out a hundred bones.
Try everything on decide what you like even if they're out of your price range for the time being save the difference and buy shoes you love. I find the only thing (in my opinion) more important than the shoes is your actual ability.
Good Luck!
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