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sthcrag510
May 1, 2009, 7:51 PM
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Im trying to get into some light ice and mountaineering. I don't know all to much about crampons. Im a trad climber mostly. But i got the bug to try some light alpine and mountaineering. I was just wondering out of those which would be recommended. I just need one that going to do it all ice,alpine,mountaineering. Thanks for the input.
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shoo
May 1, 2009, 8:51 PM
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Any of those crampons will work for a workhorse mountaineering crampon. However, sharp, vertical points are usually preferred for technical ice climbing. The sabertooths have a pretty dull horizontal pair of front teeth, and would thus be pretty poorly suited to the technical stuff. The Sarken probably perform significantly better than the Vasaks on technical ice as well, but you take a slight penalty for overall clumsiness and possible damage to your gear (sharp points). The Vasaks will also probably float a little better on the snow. Overall, it will depend on what you are doing. If you're more mountaineering focused with an occasional low-angle ice climb, the Vasaks are your best option. If you really want to be exploring the steep stuff, go with the Sarkens. If you really don't want to touch vertical ice, the Sabertooths will work just fine. Edited to note that I have never used the Sabertooths.
(This post was edited by shoo on May 1, 2009, 8:57 PM)
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reno
May 1, 2009, 8:51 PM
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sthcrag510 wrote: I just need one that going to do it all ice,alpine,mountaineering. Thanks for the input. You might as well hear it right off the bat: There is no single crampon that will do all of the above well. Some crampons will suffice for them, but there will be a trade-off. Mountaineering crampons won't work as well for vertical ice... vertical ice 'pons don't work as well for mountaineering, and so forth. Consider which type of climbing you'll be doing the most, and buy crampons suitable for that. Personally, I like C.A.M.P.'s Vector Nanotech crampons for ice. Very light, they place well, etc. But they are expensive ($240/pair, roughly.) They suck for glacier travel, though.
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coastal_climber
May 1, 2009, 8:54 PM
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I have both the Vasak and Sabertooth crampons. You can climb harder ice in the Sabertooths, but walking in the Vasaks is much nicer in my opinion. I have climbed up to WI3 in the Vasaks and WI5+ in the Sabertooths. I'd recommend either, but if it came down to it, I would choose the Sabertooths, since they seem to fit a wider range of boot types.
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shoo
May 1, 2009, 8:56 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: You can climb harder ice in the Sabertooths, but walking in the Vasaks is much nicer in my opinion. I have climbed up to WI3 in the Vasaks and WI5+ in the Sabertooths. Interesting. I would not have thought so, since the sabertooth's points look so dull. I suppose I should have put in a disclaimer that I've never actually used the sabertooths.
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gargrantuan
May 1, 2009, 9:57 PM
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shoo wrote: Any of those crampons will work for a workhorse mountaineering crampon. However, sharp, vertical points are usually preferred for technical ice climbing. The sabertooths have a pretty dull horizontal pair of front teeth, and would thus be pretty poorly suited to the technical stuff. pretty much the worst advice i've ever seen. the sabretooths are the best all around crampons i've ever used. they've been excellent on everything from M6 alpine climbs to WI5-6, and even basic mountaineering. i will never go back to vertical points, unless it is for bolted M-climbing, and only then in a mono set up.
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granite_grrl
May 1, 2009, 10:29 PM
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shoo wrote: coastal_climber wrote: You can climb harder ice in the Sabertooths, but walking in the Vasaks is much nicer in my opinion. I have climbed up to WI3 in the Vasaks and WI5+ in the Sabertooths. Interesting. I would not have thought so, since the sabertooth's points look so dull. I suppose I should have put in a disclaimer that I've never actually used the sabertooths. I know someone else that climbs bretty hard stuff in their Sabertooths as well. He can also drytool decently hard in them (and the weight of his boots was actually more limiting than the crampon he was using I believe).
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kiwiprincess
May 1, 2009, 11:33 PM
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hi I use the Sarkens for a little of everything.(mainly ice climbing) The points are Fine for glacier/hiking use on low angle as far a penetrating downwards for grip. They have anti snow, so won't ball up when walking. The fronts are a cross between pure ice points, and a Trangular snow point. Not quite as good as the triangular in a soft snowy gully but pretty close. They really are the crampon that does every thing. I also have pure ice crampons but never use them as I don't find the small wings change ice performance, and these are better on the access. Not tried the BD
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coastal_climber
May 2, 2009, 12:22 AM
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shoo wrote: Any of those crampons will work for a workhorse mountaineering crampon. However, sharp, vertical points are usually preferred for technical ice climbing. The sabertooths have a pretty dull horizontal pair of front teeth, and would thus be pretty poorly suited to the technical stuff. Why do you think I carry a file?
(This post was edited by coastal_climber on May 2, 2009, 12:23 AM)
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sthcrag510
May 2, 2009, 4:46 PM
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I appreciate all the input. It seems that it comes down to either the sarkens or the sabertooths. Each seem to have there advantages. Seems to me that the sabers are the way to go. Now i just gotta see if i can find them on sale...
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coastal_climber
May 2, 2009, 6:26 PM
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sthcrag510 wrote: I appreciate all the input. It seems that it comes down to either the sarkens or the sabertooths. Each seem to have there advantages. Seems to me that the sabers are the way to go. Now i just gotta see if i can find them on sale... http://www.spadout.com/...-diamond-sabertooth/
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sthcrag510
May 2, 2009, 11:39 PM
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thanks coast
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tomtom
May 3, 2009, 4:49 PM
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Just to confuse things further, I prefer Vasaks for slogging volcanoes, alpine ice, and leading on water ice (up to WI 5). I haven't tried the Sabertooths, but I have a pair of Sarkens and two pairs of Vasaks. I believe the thin profile of the Vasak horizontal points penetrates ice easier. Excellent all-around crampons. The downside of the Petzl crampons is that the standard linking bar only extends out to about boot size US 10.5 - 11.
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sthcrag510
May 3, 2009, 6:18 PM
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thats good to know cause i wear a 11.5 to 12. That would have causes some problems. Thanks for the heads up
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