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Becknology
May 16, 2009, 5:42 PM
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This could easily turn into a lengthy article if I were to mention every factor concerning fitting and buying climbing shoes. So instead of writing about leathers, rubbers, rands, and brands, I'm just going to cover what I think will be most beneficial to someone buying his or her first pair of climbing shoes.
If you are new to the sport of rock climbing, climbing shoes will be one of the first investments you make. Here are some things to remember when choosing your shoes.
Unlined leather shoes will stretch a little and are usually cooler than lined shoes which will stretch less. Synthetic shoes generally will not stretch.
Currently there are three basic styles on the market: laces, hook & loop (Velcro), and slip-on.
Lace-up shoes: Pros
* better fit
* more ability to adjust snugness
* a tighter shoe can help reduce the swelling of a sprained ankle (it's true!)
Lace-up shoes: Cons
* takes more time to put on and take off
* some people step on longer laces, but you should just cut them if they are too long
Hook & Loop: Pros
* can be put on and taken off more quickly
* you can still adjust the tightness, just not as much as you can with laces
Hook & Loop: Cons
* sometimes the Velcro can wear out and become loose
Slip-on shoes: Pros
* very quick to get on and off
* no worries about snagging laces or Velcro closures
Slip-on shoes: Cons
* adjusting the fit is impossible
* not usually ideal for crack climbing
The most important factor when choosing your shoes is fit. It you're uncomfortable in your shoes, nothing else matters. A properly fitted shoe will ideally be touching every part of your foot. There will be no gaps at the heel or toes. In fact your toes should be just slightly curved when your shoe is fastened on your foot. Go to a gear store and try shoes on. If you don't have a store near by, then do all you can to "try before you buy." Don't buy shoes online unless you know for certain that you are getting shoes that will fit you. You can't trust the number on a shoe claiming it is a certain size. You must try them on your feet. And keep in mind that it is common for most people to have one foot that is slightly larger than the other one. Good luck.
(This post was edited by Becknology on May 18, 2009, 1:14 PM)
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MikeSaint
May 16, 2009, 6:32 PM
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Becknology wrote: Slip-on shoes: Pros * very quick to get on and off * no worries about snagging laces or Velcro closures Slip-on shoes: Cons * adjusting the fit is impossible * not usually ideal for crack climbing
Beck- Whats wrong with slippers for cracks?
(This post was edited by MikeSaint on May 16, 2009, 6:34 PM)
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prick
May 16, 2009, 6:43 PM
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Man, it's a good thing there's a thread here now about shoes and fitting.
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Brhino90
May 16, 2009, 9:34 PM
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wonderful job Beck. I have known this info for a while but I can see how helpful knowing these things are. I had it set in my mind that some La Sportiva Mythos would be my shoe of choice, went to sun and ski to try them on and they were the most awkward fitting shoes I've ever worn. Went over to backwoods and tried some Mad Rock Phoenix's and couldn't of been happier with the fit. TRY ON SHOES BEFORE YOU BUY THEM, I don't think that can be stressed enough.
good thread!
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MikeSaint
May 16, 2009, 9:52 PM
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Beck? Slippers bad for cracks?
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yak
May 16, 2009, 10:34 PM
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I would be more inclined to use slip-ons for bouldering, i've personally never wore slip-ons but could only imagine jamming your foot into a crack and then when you go to release your foot is stuck (i've had my feet and fists jammed in cracks and had trouble getting them out) if wearing slip-ons the shoe would probably still be in the crack...maybe i need to practise crack techniqe, but this is the beginners forum...
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Becknology
May 17, 2009, 4:11 AM
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MikeSaint wrote: Beck? Slippers bad for cracks?
Hey Saint. Thanks for the post. I wouldn't use the word "bad." I've seen people crack climb more efficiently in slippers than I can in my lace-ups. That "not ideal" comment I made is my personal preference. Some people might disagree with me and say that slippers are ideal for cracks. That's fine too.
I prefer wearing lace-ups or hook-loop when climbing cracks. I like the tight feel of lace-ups and I like to feel a little more padding between the top of my feet and the rock. But honestly, I will usually prefer lace-ups anyway; even for face climbing.
Still, I generally don't recommend slippers for beginners; to whom this post (and the "Where can I climb when it rains?" post as well, by the way) is directed.
Now that I've answered your question, I'm interested to also hear your personal preference for shoes; and why. Thanks!
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angry
May 18, 2009, 3:14 AM
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Dude, quit while you're behind.
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Brhino90
May 18, 2009, 4:37 AM
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the mad rock phoenix is my beginner shoe of choice. I really like the feel on my heels and the little overlapping pieces on the rand make my heel hooks feel fantastic. I was originally looking for a velcro shoe for ease of use but lacing shoes really isn't cutting into my efficiency.
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marc801
May 18, 2009, 5:33 AM
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Becknology wrote: ...no gaps at the heal or toes.
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fixinflag
Jun 28, 2009, 8:45 PM
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I just purchased my first pair of shoes, tried a bunch on, ended up getting a pair online because I couldn't pass up the deal. there is a very small amount of space at the toes when my foot is unweighted, once I put some weight on they all press up to the end. is this good? or ideally should the shoe be snug all the way around when unweighted?
Sorry if this is a silly question, I am new. So far this forum seems very helpful.
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climber100
Jul 2, 2009, 5:43 AM
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this is cool, i just posted a fitting question about laces velcro etc. a few minutes ago, thanks!
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