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Gunks & Red Rocks rack
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asiaclimber


May 25, 2009, 10:58 AM
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Gunks & Red Rocks rack
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So, I am taking the trip to go meet the woman's parents and for her to meet my parents. I'll be spending 10 days where i grew up near the Gunk's (started climbing after I left home hence the question) and 10 days where she grew up near Red Rocks. I currently live in Japan, if you were me and you wanted to climb easy to moderate trad multi pitch routes what would you pack. Also any good route suggestions in the 5.8-5.10c range? I am probably only going to get out for 2-3 days at each location.


grampacharlie


May 25, 2009, 4:54 PM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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I always double up on nuts, especially in Red rocks. Then I'd say standard rack up to number 3 BD.

For the Gunks, bring a single set of tricams.


In RR, If you haven't don crimson crysalis 5.8, you need to. Then Frogland and Olive Oil.


ggemmen


May 25, 2009, 6:49 PM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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The other poster was right...tricams for the Gunks, including the two smaller ones that they make now. And when I was there I found myself wishing I had BD C3s more than the TCUs I do have, but i don't really remember why. just be prepared for a lot of horizontals and shockingly bagged ratings :)


Partner rgold


May 25, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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I gave my version of a gunks rack here. By "quickdraws" I meant the trad type that can be extended to full-length runners.

I've used essentially the same rack for Red Rock trad. More cams in the red, yellow and blue camalot sizes might be needed, depending on the climb. You can probably skip the brassies unless you are doing Rock Warrior or something similar. So you might want to go out with the gunks rack plus doubles in the red and yellow C4 sizes and a blue C4 as well.

As I said in the referenced thread, tricams can be useful in the Gunks, but are not even close to necessary. Do not buy any for a brief visit such as yours; it's fine to bring them if you already own them.


asiaclimber


May 26, 2009, 1:55 AM
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Re: [rgold] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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alright so i dont have any tricams and i am trying to go lite because iwill be flying in from japan and spending 20 days tottal so...

here is my current rack

UL power cams full set doubles on 5-8
UL TCU full set
UL TCU off sets full set
BD C4's x2 #2&3#, 1x#4&#5
2 sets nuts
12 sport draws
6 trad draws
6 60cm slings
4 120cm slings
and a few other odds and ends

like i said i want to go lite so anything you wouldn't bring?


altelis


May 26, 2009, 5:10 AM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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asiaclimber wrote:
alright so i dont have any tricams and i am trying to go lite because iwill be flying in from japan and spending 20 days tottal so...

here is my current rack

UL power cams full set doubles on 5-8
UL TCU full set
UL TCU off sets full set
BD C4's x2 #2&3#, 1x#4&#5
2 sets nuts
12 sport draws
6 trad draws
6 60cm slings
4 120cm slings
and a few other odds and ends

like i said i want to go lite so anything you wouldn't bring?

well, if you REALLY want to go light then decide: trad or sport?

if you want to climb both them climb sport on trad draws- not need to dbl up there.

and, also, if you REALLY want to go light you have a pretty beefy rack: i would ditch the ENTIRE offset and regular TCU's. pick and choose dude, pick and choose. and i would suggest you don't need the FULL set of doubles in the power cams. not at all. find the routes you want to do, see if they need any specific pieces.

i would say 1.5 "full" powercams, and 1 full set tcus (either all regular and a mix and match of regular/offset).....

i certainly wouldn't add anything. and again, w/ only 2 days per place, one of which is entirely trad, it seems like you should just forgo the sport draws....


shoo


May 26, 2009, 5:40 AM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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asiaclimber wrote:
alright so i dont have any tricams and i am trying to go lite because iwill be flying in from japan and spending 20 days tottal so...

here is my current rack

UL power cams full set doubles on 5-8
UL TCU full set
UL TCU off sets full set
BD C4's x2 #2&3#, 1x#4&#5
2 sets nuts
12 sport draws
6 trad draws
6 60cm slings
4 120cm slings
and a few other odds and ends

like i said i want to go lite so anything you wouldn't bring?

Have you considered bringing a Sherpa for all those cams?


hansundfritz


May 26, 2009, 6:12 AM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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I would add the pink and red Tri-cams for the Gunks. Very useful. You can always see for yourself and then pick them up in town after your first day out.

Long slings usually needed for getting around corners and over the over-hangs. DMM revolvers might help reduce rope drag issues, which is a common problem at the Gunks.


cchas


May 26, 2009, 7:40 AM
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Re: [rgold] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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When I climbed in the gunks alot (lived in NYC for 12 yrs) I would double up in the smaller cams (green C3/blue alien size and red C3/green alien size) doubles in the BD 0.3 to 1 C4 range and the 1 yellow. Many small size stoppers are good, and slings. And I hate tri-cams. The rock is fairly unique with lots of use of horizontals and crimps. It will take you a day or so to get used to but in reality its no big deal. Lots of friction. As for the statement ofn ratings. Once you get used to the rock, the ratings feel appropriate, not either sandbagged or soft.

For Red Rocks, depends on what you want to do.


coolcat83


May 26, 2009, 8:05 AM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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for the gunks set of nuts, tricams up to 2.5, set of cams, doubles in large fingers to hands, set of tcu or c3's would work well. the rock has great texture and you'll get used to the horizontals (As well as the fake out horizontals that look great till you reach for them). As for the ratings, sometimes they fit, sometimes your hanging there cursing that it's the hardest damn 5.x you've ever done.


fresh


May 26, 2009, 11:01 AM
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Re: [asiaclimber] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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jesus, that's a lot of gear. as long as you don't mind dragging it all with you...


asiaclimber


May 26, 2009, 11:38 AM
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Re: [fresh] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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i wasn't saying that i was planning on taking all of that. Thats just what i own and was wondering what you all thought i should not bring with.


Skidemon27


May 26, 2009, 12:12 PM
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Re: [fresh] Gunks & Red Rocks rack [In reply to]
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i never have ever onced placed a tricam at the gunks......so hence i never baught them..... just cams and nuts baby


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