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tyler
May 25, 2009, 6:22 PM
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ryanb
May 25, 2009, 7:01 PM
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I read that article I think...I think it must have been in an issue of rock and ice cause i got one of those free with a pair of shoes. I think the idea was your training should match your climbing, you should do harder moves instead of easy moves with weight. Oh and there was a blog post on why it was wrong...(googles around a bit) here you go
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Tactix23
May 25, 2009, 8:21 PM
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don't work in terms of what? climbing or overall progress? Of course weighted pullups work. If you can 20 pullups properly, meaning 2 second holds at the top and full extensions, then you should be doing weighted pullups
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spikeddem
May 25, 2009, 9:06 PM
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Tactix23 wrote: don't work in terms of what? climbing or overall progress? Of course weighted pullups work. If you can 20 pullups properly, meaning 2 second holds at the top and full extensions, then you should be doing weighted pullups In terms of climbing, of course. Well, actually I have no idea what you mean by "overall progress." Anyways, you have x amount of time to train for climbing. Use it poorly or use it well. Your results will follow accordingly.
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jt512
May 25, 2009, 11:41 PM
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Tactix23 wrote: don't work in terms of what? climbing or overall progress? Of course weighted pullups work. If you can 20 pullups properly, meaning 2 second holds at the top and full extensions, then you should be doing weighted pullups You have no idea what you're talking about, as usual. Jay
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onceahardman
May 26, 2009, 6:00 PM
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Tactix23 wrote: don't work in terms of what? climbing or overall progress? Of course weighted pullups work. If you can 20 pullups properly, meaning 2 second holds at the top and full extensions, then you should be doing weighted pullups **struggling hard to not get drawn into this argument-again** If shoulder weakness is a limiting factor to your climbing, pullups may well prove helpful. Several "pretty good" climbers train with pullups-some climb even higher numbers than the authors of (the excellent) "Self Coached Climber". http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related
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hopperhopper
Jun 1, 2009, 2:17 AM
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The brunt of the article was that instead of adding weight to regular pullups, you should decrease the size/increase the difficulty of the holds you use. The argument was that this mimics real climbing scenario better, which it does. The natural counter-argument, however, is that whether you want to add weight or make the holds worse depends on what you want to train more. If you're focusing on lats, you want to add weight, and that will increase the weight/number of times you can pull up. Doing regular (unweighted) pullups on worse holds will benefit forearm and finger strength more. Do whichever option benefits you more, or better yet...a mix of both. If your finger strength is lacking, do unweighted pullups on bad holds. If your "pullup strength" is lacking (lats, biceps), add weight.
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 5:39 PM
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I hesitate to comment regarding training b/c I'm no expert, but what the hell, that hasn't stopped hordes of rc'ers from butchering the post I started with irrelevant nonsense. But anyway: the "weakest link" theory in climbing training has always made sense to me--the point of failure in climbing will virtually always be fingers/forearms, and almost never be lats/biceps. (One can perhaps think of counterexample, such as hucking maximum dynos off of big holds, but those will be the outlier situations that have little to do with vast majority of climbing situations.) It may also be that the training gurus who eschew virtually all strength training and advise focusing on movement are on to something, but that's really going outside what you're asking (even though it may relate to what you should be asking). Edit--plz see the 2nd page on this thread for a critique of the above post.
(This post was edited by pfwein on Jun 3, 2009, 1:20 AM)
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jt512
Jun 2, 2009, 7:29 PM
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pfwein wrote: I hesitate to comment regarding training b/c I'm no expert, but what the hell, that hasn't stopped hordes of rc'ers from butchering the post I started with irrelevant nonsense. But anyway: the "weakest link" theory in climbing training has always made sense to me--the point of failure in climbing will virtually always be fingers/forearms, and almost never be lats/biceps. (One can perhaps think of counterexample, such as hucking maximum dynos off of big holds, but those will be the outlier situations that have little to do with vast majority of climbing situations.) It may also be that the training gurus who eschew virtually all strength training and advise focusing on movement are on to something, but that's really going outside what you're asking (even though it may relate to what you should be asking). Ever stop to think, and then forget to start again? Apparently, yes. Every sentence of your post is pure nonsense. Jay
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alamuerte
Jun 2, 2009, 7:37 PM
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pfweinie, your post is stupid. please delete it and do not post on this thread again.
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 8:25 PM
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If the TS asks, I will respectfully consider his request. But your and jt000's unsupported opinions are of little interest to me (or anyone else) as they lack meaningful content. I won't deign to engage in an "I know you are but what I am I" type of "argument." If either of you would care to elaborate on the "stupidity" (your characterization) or "pure nonsense" (his/her/its), I will consider your elaboration and delete or edit my post as appropriate. Otherwise, I request that both of you delete your posts, and then I'll delete this one. Deal?
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jt512
Jun 2, 2009, 8:28 PM
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pfwein wrote: If the TS asks, I will respectfully consider his request. But your and jt000's unsupported opinions are of little interest to me (or anyone else) as they lack meaningful content. I won't deign to engage in an "I know you are but what I am I" type of "argument." If either of you would care to elaborate on the "stupidity" (your characterization) or "pure nonsense" (his/her/its), I will consider your elaboration and delete or edit my post as appropriate. Otherwise, I request that both of you delete your posts, and then I'll delete this one. Deal? No.
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 8:29 PM
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Ever start having a conversation with yourself, and then wonder why you are doing it? Apparently, no. But now that the question has been asked, I'll leave it to you to try to figure out the answer. (If after suitable reflection you're unable to do so, let me know and I'll drop a hint.)
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jt512
Jun 2, 2009, 8:33 PM
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pfwein wrote: Ever start having a conversation with yourself, and then wonder why you are doing it? Apparently, no. But now that the question has been asked, I'll leave it to you to try to figure out the answer. (If after suitable reflection you're unable to do so, let me know and I'll drop a hint.) A more relevant question is why I am bothering to have a conversation with you. Jay
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chilli
Jun 2, 2009, 8:44 PM
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jt512 wrote: You have no idea what you're talking about, as usual. jt512 wrote: Ever stop to think, and then forget to start again? Apparently, yes. Every sentence of your post is pure nonsense. jt512 wrote: A more relevant question is why I am bothering to have a conversation with you. this is all you've contributed, and none were constructive, informative, or remotely helpful in progressing the discussion. in fact, it's basically right on par for all you EVER contribute, save one occasion i can think of, with your "correcting belay errors" post. by the way, that was pretty good. the rest of the time, do you just sit around and think of snappy comebacks and killfile fuckers who disagree? it's kind of useless. you have a wealth of knowledge and experience; and instead of actually posting anything to that end, you sit around and belittle people. it's a waste.
(This post was edited by chilli on Jun 2, 2009, 8:46 PM)
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 9:10 PM
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Not sure what his/her/its (I'll use "his" as a guess) deal is--he pesters people about using the search function, which is not illogical if the goal is to delete posts that have no meaningful content. But when I offered to delete my own post which, according to him, was "pure nonsense," which would then also allow him to delete his post "exposing" my purely nonsensical post, he seems to have a different agenda. I'm sadly coming to the realization that the primary goal of many posters here is just to see their verbal garbage "in print" (sort of), and that's why so many posters got hacked off when I asked them to delete their stupid posts. When I began asking that, it was just my goal to keep things nice and orderly, but I think posters (correctly) perceived my request as challenging their very existence (at least is relates to posting on this website). Oh well, have a nice day, and the offer to delete all irrelevant and/or stupid posts still stands, but it must be accepted in toto.
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jt512
Jun 2, 2009, 9:10 PM
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chilli wrote: jt512 wrote: You have no idea what you're talking about, as usual. jt512 wrote: Ever stop to think, and then forget to start again? Apparently, yes. Every sentence of your post is pure nonsense. jt512 wrote: A more relevant question is why I am bothering to have a conversation with you. this is all you've contributed, and none were constructive, informative, or remotely helpful in progressing the discussion. in fact, it's basically right on par for all you EVER contribute, save one occasion i can think of, with your "correcting belay errors" post. by the way, that was pretty good. the rest of the time, do you just sit around and think of snappy comebacks and killfile fuckers who disagree? it's kind of useless. you have a wealth of knowledge and experience; and instead of actually posting anything to that end, you sit around and belittle people. it's a waste. The topic is redundant. I've posted substantive answers before. I see no reason to repeat myself. The site has a search function. Jay
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altelis
Jun 2, 2009, 9:18 PM
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pfwein wrote: Ever start having a conversation with yourself, and then wonder why you are doing it? Apparently, no. But now that the question has been asked, I'll leave it to you to try to figure out the answer. (If after suitable reflection you're unable to do so, let me know and I'll drop a hint.) Ummmmmmm...........hang on. One second here. Wait a second........ Do I understand this right? I think I know the answer to the riddle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PFWEIN = JT512!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jun 2, 2009, 9:27 PM
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pfwein wrote: Not sure what his/her/its (I'll use "his" as a guess) deal is--he pesters people about using the search function, which is not illogical if the goal is to delete posts that have no meaningful content. But when I offered to delete my own post which, according to him, was "pure nonsense," which would then also allow him to delete his post "exposing" my purely nonsensical post, he seems to have a different agenda. I'm sadly coming to the realization that the primary goal of many posters here is just to see their verbal garbage "in print" (sort of), and that's why so many posters got hacked off when I asked them to delete their stupid posts. When I began asking that, it was just my goal to keep things nice and orderly, but I think posters (correctly) perceived my request as challenging their very existence (at least is relates to posting on this website). Oh well, have a nice day, and the offer to delete all irrelevant and/or stupid posts still stands, but it must be accepted in toto. ahhhh. I see the light, you don't understand how asking for someone to delete their post is rude. You just want things nice and orderly. Please spend some time re-reading some of the classics of rc.com. Try the works of subtle, spidermonkeyrosi, aceto or gabe. Appreciate them and then post away. Or mention on how you trick RC.com mods. That always goes down well.
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 9:28 PM
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You apparently are showing a glimmer of understanding of sarcasm. How old are you? If under 10: great, you are developing at a normal pace.
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jt512
Jun 2, 2009, 9:33 PM
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pfwein wrote: Not sure what his/her/its (I'll use "his" as a guess) deal is--he pesters people about using the search function, which is not illogical if the goal is to delete posts that have no meaningful content. But when I offered to delete my own post which, according to him, was "pure nonsense," which would then also allow him to delete his post "exposing" my purely nonsensical post, he seems to have a different agenda. I'm sadly coming to the realization that the primary goal of many posters here is just to see their verbal garbage "in print" (sort of), and that's why so many posters got hacked off when I asked them to delete their stupid posts. When I began asking that, it was just my goal to keep things nice and orderly, but I think posters (correctly) perceived my request as challenging their very existence (at least is relates to posting on this website). Oh well, have a nice day, and the offer to delete all irrelevant and/or stupid posts still stands, but it must be accepted in toto. Your sense of self-importance is astounding in light of your idiocy. Jay
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jun 2, 2009, 9:42 PM
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jt512 wrote: pfwein wrote: Not sure what his/her/its (I'll use "his" as a guess) deal is--he pesters people about using the search function, which is not illogical if the goal is to delete posts that have no meaningful content. But when I offered to delete my own post which, according to him, was "pure nonsense," which would then also allow him to delete his post "exposing" my purely nonsensical post, he seems to have a different agenda. I'm sadly coming to the realization that the primary goal of many posters here is just to see their verbal garbage "in print" (sort of), and that's why so many posters got hacked off when I asked them to delete their stupid posts. When I began asking that, it was just my goal to keep things nice and orderly, but I think posters (correctly) perceived my request as challenging their very existence (at least is relates to posting on this website). Oh well, have a nice day, and the offer to delete all irrelevant and/or stupid posts still stands, but it must be accepted in toto. Your sense of self-importance is astounding in light of your idiocy. Jay Why "in light of"? Don't self-importance and idiocy usually go hand in hand?
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 9:59 PM
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pfwein wrote: I'm sadly coming to the realization that the primary goal of many posters here is just to see their verbal garbage "in print" (sort of), and that's why so many posters got hacked off when I asked them to delete their stupid posts.
jt512 wrote: Your sense of self-importance is astounding in light of your idiocy. Q.E.D.
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jun 2, 2009, 10:12 PM
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pfwein wrote: pfwein wrote: I'm sadly coming to the realization that the primary goal of many posters here is just to see their verbal garbage "in print" (sort of), and that's why so many posters got hacked off when I asked them to delete their stupid posts. jt512 wrote: Your sense of self-importance is astounding in light of your idiocy. Q.E.D. I asked you to go read some rc.com threads before posting again. Heck, I'll even start by going and doing so myself. See you back here in a few hours or days.
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pfwein
Jun 2, 2009, 10:23 PM
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Toast--if you have anything you'd like me to read regarding rc.com, please post it on this thread and I'll take a look (I'm looking for at least a semi-serious reply--if your response is for me to read something ridiculous, well--whatever floats your boat). I'm perplexed by the adverse reactions some of my posts seem to have engendered (in a very small subset of readers; I presume the majority of readers have found them to be educational). I've received everything from your basic generic, gratuitous insults (see above) to offers to engage in various unsolicited sex acts (when none of my posts have had any sexual content or innuendo whatsoever). Obviously, I'm missing something here, so if you can help clear it up, great.
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