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acorneau
Jun 2, 2009, 9:59 PM
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Just came across this video about anchor replacement:
http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related
At about 1:35 the guy uses a triangle-shaped device to remove an old bolt.
Anyone else seem one of these before? I think it's quite an ingenious way of leveraging out old bolts.
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dingus
Jun 2, 2009, 10:07 PM
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acorneau wrote: Just came across this video about anchor replacement: http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related At about 1:35 the guy uses a triangle-shaped device to remove an old bolt. Anyone else seem one of these before? I think it's quite an ingenious way of leveraging out old bolts.
Hmmm works like a gear puller. That is a simple yet elegant solution.
(edit) - looks like in softer rock 3 dimple/hole marks would be left in the rock? I don't think this thing would be nice to use on softer rocks?
You're familar with a tuning fork bolt remover?
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Jun 2, 2009, 10:10 PM)
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angry
Jun 2, 2009, 10:39 PM
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It's a good idea but needs two major modifications.
1st, it needs to have a groove and thinner metal in the middle instead of a hole. That way, you can slip it under anything, even a hanger. The bolt is often too rusted to back out and it might be a button head anyway.
2nd, they need to install some barrier at the end of the bolts to keep them from ripping up the rock. A tough plastic cap would do it.
I've never needed more than a crowbar personally but this is a lot lighter.
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evanwish
Jun 2, 2009, 10:53 PM
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look at 2:03
caused quite a bit of rock damage where the legs of the triangle drilled themselves into the rock
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majid_sabet
Jun 3, 2009, 12:28 AM
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no need to cut the threads. he could had just added a few washers instead and then use the puller and still leaving some other smaller flat washer under the three bolts so the rock would not get damaged.
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climbbaja
Jun 3, 2009, 6:48 AM
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There are several problems with that video. The rock was very soft. Consequently, the rock blew out around the bolt. The bolt was already severely compromised and partially coming out of the rock. In hard rock, a wedge anchor will break inside the hole before coming out. A modified crowbar (with a widened slot) or a "tuning fork" made from a 1" cold chisel would also have removed that bolt. To remove a wedge anchor from hard rock, the practical method is to overtorque the nut until the bolt snaps (usually deep in the hole at the cone). The installer in the video used a wedge anchor in a new hole. That was a wrong and dangerous choice for soft rock. A sleeve-anchor or glue-in would be more appropriate.
Blowing the dust out of the hole is not enough. It should be blown out, then brushed, multiple times, until clean. That video is a great example of what NOT to do!
I just submitted my warning text comment on the video at YouTube.
(This post was edited by climbbaja on Jun 3, 2009, 7:12 AM)
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sbaclimber
Jun 3, 2009, 7:26 AM
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angry wrote: It's a good idea but needs two major modifications. 1st, it needs to have a groove and thinner metal in the middle instead of a hole. That way, you can slip it under anything, even a hanger. The bolt is often too rusted to back out and it might be a button head anyway. 2nd, they need to install some barrier at the end of the bolts to keep them from ripping up the rock. A tough plastic cap would do it.
I haven't watched the video (YouTube's blocked here ), but regarding damaging the surrounding rock, I remember seeing this over on the taco a while back... http://www.supertopo.com/...86252&msg=334504
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desertwanderer81
Jun 3, 2009, 3:29 PM
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wtf, youtube is blocked in germany?
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bigjonnyc
Jun 3, 2009, 3:49 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: wtf, youtube is blocked in germany?
I think he's probably at work or on some other institutional network that filters their internet content.
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angry
Jun 3, 2009, 4:30 PM
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I agree to a point.
On hard rock, I'd say brush the hole. On soft rock, too much of that can widen the hole. Of course if it's soft enough for that, a glue in should be used. Like you said.
In all they just did more damage to the rock than fix it.
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sbaclimber
Jun 3, 2009, 5:07 PM
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bigjonnyc wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: wtf, youtube is blocked in germany? I think he's probably at work...
Most sites are still accessible here in Germany in general
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 3, 2009, 5:10 PM)
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