Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


adam3


Jun 6, 2009, 10:41 AM
Post #1 of 13 (2113 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2007
Posts: 98

Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'd like to go to RR sometime soon and I have always had my eye on Dark Shadows 5.8 3 pitch climb. My question isn't so much what rope I should by.. but more of what have you used in past on this route or routes similar to it. I'm using a 9.8mm right now and yeah.. let me know.

(preferably people who know this climb)


frogclimber


Jun 6, 2009, 10:50 AM
Post #2 of 13 (2112 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 26, 2007
Posts: 103

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I did it on a 60m 10.2mm that worked fine. Diameter is pretty much irrelevant.

Fair warning: If you plan to finish by rappelling off the last bolted anchor as most people do, a 60m will just barely get you down from the top anchor to the one below it. If you don't know where that second anchor is, you have some fun swinging in store for you.


marc801


Jun 6, 2009, 11:14 AM
Post #3 of 13 (2100 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adam3 wrote:
I'd like to go to RR sometime soon and I have always had my eye on Dark Shadows 5.8 3 pitch climb. My question isn't so much what rope I should by.. but more of what have you used in past on this route or routes similar to it. I'm using a 9.8mm right now and yeah.. let me know.
Do you honestly think rope diameter makes a rat's ass worth of difference on a 5.8? (or 10 or 11 or 12, for that matter?)


adam3


Jun 6, 2009, 11:21 AM
Post #4 of 13 (2090 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2007
Posts: 98

Re: [marc801] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel. But thanks for the ass remark. What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?


vegastradguy


Jun 6, 2009, 11:50 AM
Post #5 of 13 (2081 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adam3 wrote:
Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel. But thanks for the ass remark. What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?

doesnt much matter- whatever you have handy or are willing to haul up the route. i usually rap with an 8.6mm double rope and my 9.8, but any rope will work.

be mindful, though, one of your ropes (or both) is likely to get wet on the last rap, so keep that in mind when rigging the last rap.


marc801


Jun 6, 2009, 12:12 PM
Post #6 of 13 (2076 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adam3 wrote:
Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel.
Well, since you never mentioned all that in the OP....
adam3 wrote:
But thanks for the ass remark.
Glad to oblige. It was after all a modifier of rope diameter difference, not of you.
adam3 wrote:
What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?
On longer routes (non-alpine) where I need a tag/rap line, I bring along an 8mm static. But same as with lead line and like vegastradguy said - it doesn't matter; all depends on what you have and what you want to bring. You could even rig the raps with a biner block on your lead line and bring a 7mm retrieval line, as is done in canyoneering. I'm sure some have done it with a pair of 11mm ropes. This really is kind of a pointless discussion.


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jun 6, 2009, 12:13 PM)


altelis


Jun 6, 2009, 12:16 PM
Post #7 of 13 (2074 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Lemme just show you something real quick, kinda an instant replay of what happened:

THE OP:

adam3 wrote:
I'd like to go to RR sometime soon and I have always had my eye on Dark Shadows 5.8 3 pitch climb. My question isn't so much what rope I should by.. but more of what have you used in past on this route or routes similar to it. I'm using a 9.8mm right now and yeah.. let me know.

(preferably people who know this climb)

Not a single reference to the fact that you want to know about second ropes for the rappel. Not one.

People gave info for what you asked for (but not for what you meant, apparently). You followed up with this:

adam3 wrote:
Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel. But thanks for the ass remark. What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?

No you weren't.....!oh no you didn't!


dlintz


Jun 6, 2009, 1:02 PM
Post #8 of 13 (2055 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982

Re: [vegastradguy] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

vegastradguy wrote:
...be mindful, though, one of your ropes (or both) is likely to get wet on the last rap, so keep that in mind when rigging the last rap.

This is true.

d.


jackscoldsweat


Jun 6, 2009, 2:32 PM
Post #9 of 13 (2030 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 380

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

FWIW, if you choose to do the entire route (8-9 pitches?), you only need a single 60 meter for rapping the north side.

JCS


adam3


Jun 6, 2009, 2:40 PM
Post #10 of 13 (2026 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2007
Posts: 98

Re: [jackscoldsweat] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
Ok so I tend to rewrite stuff to explain my messages better and I admit I dropped the ball. My bad marc. Anyways yeah I was after the double rope rappel and I'm liking the static rope and locking beaner idea rather than get another full rope. Thank and sorry marc.


vegastradguy


Jun 6, 2009, 2:58 PM
Post #11 of 13 (2020 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [jackscoldsweat] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jackscoldsweat wrote:
FWIW, if you choose to do the entire route (8-9 pitches?), you only need a single 60 meter for rapping the north side.

JCS

its more like 14 pitches- and, if you do the descent correctly, its a walk off. if you blow it, you might need one or two ropes, depending on where you go down.


jackscoldsweat


Jun 6, 2009, 3:07 PM
Post #12 of 13 (2019 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 380

Re: [vegastradguy] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

14!! Maybe I did an other route entirely.

JCS


marc801


Jun 6, 2009, 3:11 PM
Post #13 of 13 (2016 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806

Re: [adam3] Rope Size/Dark Shadows RR Question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adam3 wrote:
Ok so I tend to rewrite stuff to explain my messages better and I admit I dropped the ball. My bad marc. Anyways yeah I was after the double rope rappel and I'm liking the static rope and locking beaner idea rather than get another full rope. Thank and sorry marc.
No worries.
One technique to think about regarding using a smaller diameter static. If you go with an 8mm, you can rig the rap so that you always pull on the dynamic. That way if one of the ropes snags on the pull-down, hopefully you have your lead line (or most of it) for whatever shenanigans it takes to free the cluster. If you go with a knot/biner block rigging and a thinner static pulldown, then you may not have anything suitable to lead with to free a stuck rope. And everyone knows how notorious RR is for eating ropes. We even managed to get our rope stuck on the final rap (two ropes off the P2 anchor into the pond) off of Dark Shadows. On the pull-down, the end of the rope flipped into an overhand loop - not even a full knot - which was just enough to get wedged under the laplink on one of the anchor pins. The party behind us freed it.

[For anyone unfamiliar with the canyoneering technique of a biner block: http://canyonwiki.com/..._up_a_.27biner_block
Most importantly for climbers to remember: you rap on a single line. It's not a double rope rap. Because of the potential for hang-ups, I'd use a knot block as opposed to a full biner block in a climbing situation, particularly at RR.]


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jun 6, 2009, 3:14 PM)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook