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adam3
Jun 6, 2009, 5:41 PM
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I'd like to go to RR sometime soon and I have always had my eye on Dark Shadows 5.8 3 pitch climb. My question isn't so much what rope I should by.. but more of what have you used in past on this route or routes similar to it. I'm using a 9.8mm right now and yeah.. let me know.
(preferably people who know this climb)
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frogclimber
Jun 6, 2009, 5:50 PM
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I did it on a 60m 10.2mm that worked fine. Diameter is pretty much irrelevant.
Fair warning: If you plan to finish by rappelling off the last bolted anchor as most people do, a 60m will just barely get you down from the top anchor to the one below it. If you don't know where that second anchor is, you have some fun swinging in store for you.
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marc801
Jun 6, 2009, 6:14 PM
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adam3 wrote: I'd like to go to RR sometime soon and I have always had my eye on Dark Shadows 5.8 3 pitch climb. My question isn't so much what rope I should by.. but more of what have you used in past on this route or routes similar to it. I'm using a 9.8mm right now and yeah.. let me know.
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adam3
Jun 6, 2009, 6:21 PM
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Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel. But thanks for the ass remark. What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?
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vegastradguy
Jun 6, 2009, 6:50 PM
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adam3 wrote: Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel. But thanks for the ass remark. What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?
doesnt much matter- whatever you have handy or are willing to haul up the route. i usually rap with an 8.6mm double rope and my 9.8, but any rope will work.
be mindful, though, one of your ropes (or both) is likely to get wet on the last rap, so keep that in mind when rigging the last rap.
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marc801
Jun 6, 2009, 7:12 PM
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adam3 wrote: Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel.
adam3 wrote: But thanks for the ass remark.
adam3 wrote: What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?
(This post was edited by marc801 on Jun 6, 2009, 7:13 PM)
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altelis
Jun 6, 2009, 7:16 PM
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Lemme just show you something real quick, kinda an instant replay of what happened:
THE OP:
adam3 wrote: I'd like to go to RR sometime soon and I have always had my eye on Dark Shadows 5.8 3 pitch climb. My question isn't so much what rope I should by.. but more of what have you used in past on this route or routes similar to it. I'm using a 9.8mm right now and yeah.. let me know. (preferably people who know this climb)
Not a single reference to the fact that you want to know about second ropes for the rappel. Not one.
People gave info for what you asked for (but not for what you meant, apparently). You followed up with this:
adam3 wrote: Sorry marc maybe I wasn't clear but what I meant was I am gonna use my 9.8 but I was wondering about a second rope to do a two rope rappel. But thanks for the ass remark. What two rope combinations/diameters.. Work best for you guy.. Another 9.8? A set of twins a 9.8 and a 10.4?
No you weren't.....!oh no you didn't!
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dlintz
Jun 6, 2009, 8:02 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: ...be mindful, though, one of your ropes (or both) is likely to get wet on the last rap, so keep that in mind when rigging the last rap.
This is true.
d.
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jackscoldsweat
Jun 6, 2009, 9:32 PM
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FWIW, if you choose to do the entire route (8-9 pitches?), you only need a single 60 meter for rapping the north side.
JCS
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adam3
Jun 6, 2009, 9:40 PM
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Ok so I tend to rewrite stuff to explain my messages better and I admit I dropped the ball. My bad marc. Anyways yeah I was after the double rope rappel and I'm liking the static rope and locking beaner idea rather than get another full rope. Thank and sorry marc.
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vegastradguy
Jun 6, 2009, 9:58 PM
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jackscoldsweat wrote: FWIW, if you choose to do the entire route (8-9 pitches?), you only need a single 60 meter for rapping the north side. JCS
its more like 14 pitches- and, if you do the descent correctly, its a walk off. if you blow it, you might need one or two ropes, depending on where you go down.
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jackscoldsweat
Jun 6, 2009, 10:07 PM
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14!! Maybe I did an other route entirely.
JCS
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marc801
Jun 6, 2009, 10:11 PM
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adam3 wrote: Ok so I tend to rewrite stuff to explain my messages better and I admit I dropped the ball. My bad marc. Anyways yeah I was after the double rope rappel and I'm liking the static rope and locking beaner idea rather than get another full rope. Thank and sorry marc.
One technique to think about regarding using a smaller diameter static. If you go with an 8mm, you can rig the rap so that you always pull on the dynamic. That way if one of the ropes snags on the pull-down, hopefully you have your lead line (or most of it) for whatever shenanigans it takes to free the cluster. If you go with a knot/biner block rigging and a thinner static pulldown, then you may not have anything suitable to lead with to free a stuck rope. And everyone knows how notorious RR is for eating ropes. We even managed to get our rope stuck on the final rap (two ropes off the P2 anchor into the pond) off of Dark Shadows. On the pull-down, the end of the rope flipped into an overhand loop - not even a full knot - which was just enough to get wedged under the laplink on one of the anchor pins. The party behind us freed it.
[For anyone unfamiliar with the canyoneering technique of a biner block: http://canyonwiki.com/..._up_a_.27biner_block
Most importantly for climbers to remember: you rap on a single line. It's not a double rope rap. Because of the potential for hang-ups, I'd use a knot block as opposed to a full biner block in a climbing situation, particularly at RR.]
(This post was edited by marc801 on Jun 6, 2009, 10:14 PM)
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