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climbza
Jun 13, 2009, 10:20 PM
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Hi All,
I'm currently in San Diego and will be heading to Joshua Tree for two days... from there we're heading to Las Vegas and onto Red Rocks. Can anyone recommend any other climbing areas worth visiting?
We've only got about 10 days in total, so looking for 'bestest' quality climbing only 
We'll be Sport climbing and Bouldering (no Trad gear).
Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance,
Justin
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 13, 2009, 10:53 PM
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Hey Justin
Likely too hot for those places. I suggest Big Bear, lots of sport climbing in the holcomb valley pinnacles. Joshua Tree and Vegas will be in the mid 90's, doable but too miserable for me - I'd rather have mid 70's up in the mountains! Also malibu creek if you like taking a dip after a long day...
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 13, 2009, 10:55 PM
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climbza wrote: looking for ' bestest' quality climbing only .... We'll be Sport climbing and Bouldering (no Trad gear).
Best climbing in the southwest ain't on bolts :)
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climbza
Jun 13, 2009, 11:17 PM
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Yeah, I know its going to be hot... however we're in San Diego right now.
We plan to climb early and late to avoid the heat (+ we're used to climbing in the heat)
The Trad thing, would be nice if we had it... hopefully we can toprope a few trad routes using top anchors.
Edit: Will most likely visit Malibu Creek for a day - thanks
(This post was edited by climbza on Jun 13, 2009, 11:20 PM)
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brawa
Jun 14, 2009, 2:51 AM
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Suicide rocks in Idyllwild. I've only been to Tahquitz across the valley (trad), but it's supposed to be good.
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 14, 2009, 5:13 AM
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brawa wrote: Suicide rocks in Idyllwild. I've only been to Tahquitz across the valley (trad), but it's supposed to be good.
Suicide may have bolted routes but they are far from sport climbs.
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HIGHER_CLIMBER
Jun 14, 2009, 7:09 PM
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Do some searches on here about New Jack. It's a terrible looking place (to most), but lots of sport climbing. I think it'll be too hot there right now, or anywhere else in this area.
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climbza
Jun 15, 2009, 5:47 AM
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Thanks.
Just got back from Tram Boulders: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...County/Tram_Boulders. It was a 2 hour drive from where we're staying (I've come to realise that over here, people will drive long distances for short periods of time :)
Had a great day, the ride up was an experience, the bouldering really fun. Could definitely feel the altitude when topping out on the problems!
Thinking of just doing the tourist thing in Vegas/Grand Canyon and spending all our climbing days at Red Rocks.
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pbjosh
Jun 15, 2009, 7:05 AM
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From SD -> Vegas, here are your best options IMHO:
Holcomb / other Big Bear areas - Sport climbing on rough, featured granite at 6-8k feet.
Black Mountain, Tramway - Bouldering on nice compact granite at 8k feet.
Clark Mountain - Sport Climbing at 8k feet on world class limestone. Bring your 4 Wheel Drive, lots of water and your A game and be ready to climb hard 12 and up.
Mt Charleston - Sport Climbing at 8-9k feet (I think, roughly) on very good limestone. Bring your A game as well though there are a few easier routes.
Suicide / Tahquitz are essentially trad destinations, not enough "pure" sport climbing or bouldering to make them worthwhile if that is your objective. Besides Black Mountain is very close and a better choice for what you want. That said, if you were trad climbing, they are a tremendous destination.
Joshua Tree, New Jack City and most other destinations will be REALLY hot.
At Red Rocks you might be able to climb some of the shadier routes in the canyons if the temp in Vegas is like 80-90 and not 105...
Good luck.
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byran
Jun 18, 2009, 8:25 PM
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climbza wrote: We'll be Sport climbing and Bouldering (no Trad gear).
Are you a trad climber and just don't have gear with you? If so, there will be plenty of slab for you at Suicide Rock. It's also close to some good bouldering (similar to Tramway) at Black Mountain.
In Red Rock you could climb Prince of Darkness in Black Velvet Canyon. Quality multi-pitch sport climb (with a couple short, easy runouts if you don't have stoppers). Short approach, and it goes into the shade in the afternoon. You can rap from anywhere on the route, so if you can't make it to the top with a PM start you can just start heading down as the sun sets. The shady sport crags in RR will probably be gangraped.
Also near Vegas is Mt Charleston. Some of the best sport clipping on the west coast. Nice steep limestone at high elevation. Lots of routes 5.11 and up.
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sidepull
Jun 18, 2009, 9:12 PM
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I have an off-the-beaten-path suggestion: waterworld in Vegas. It's a limestone slot canyon that features unique and generally shaded climbing on vertical runnels. Lots of moderate stuff, including a classic two pitch climb. Everything is well protected. The only trick is getting there through the quarry and spotting the cairn.
There's more beta in the Vegas Limestone guide book. Good luck!
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