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jmeizis
Jun 20, 2009, 11:21 PM
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Don't do it jackasses. I understand that sometimes you get caught in the rain and have to finish up but the number of people I see and hear about climbing on wet sandstone is ridiculous. I can't work outside because of all the damn rain and I know that when I do get out everything is going to be different because idiots broke holds off because they don't give a crap about the climbing areas. If the rock is wet it will break. If the ground is wet it will break. If you see wet spots things will break. Open warning to anyone I see in the Garden, Red Rock Canyon, Ute Valley, or any other major sandstone area I might be in: If I see you climbing in or immediately after it has rained I will break your fingers. Now that I've gotten that out of my system, everybody enjoy climbing in Colorado, where it apparently rains every day.
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sungam
Jun 20, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Hey Jeremiah, Pouring rain there too?
It's been fucking raining here in SLC for like 2 and a half weeks straight except for a few days of good weather in there somewhere, during the time I was sick as fuck.
I'm getting so frustrated!
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subantz
Jun 20, 2009, 11:57 PM
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You forgot to mention brushing holds after rain also. I hear that nylon brushes will make nice jugs after a rain fall event on sandstone. but no one listens. Maybe because most people dont care about the concenquences. It happens alot just go to horse pens 40 and look around a few problems have been brushed not chipped. Sad but numbers do matter more to some people more than the the climbing for the fun of it. Those people need a stick clip stuck in the ars.
Just to be clear climbing sandstone in/after the rain is a bad idea period no matter how hard the rock.
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areyoumydude
Jun 21, 2009, 12:14 AM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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jmeizis wrote: Don't do it jackasses. I understand that sometimes you get caught in the rain and have to finish up but the number of people I see and hear about climbing on wet sandstone is ridiculous. I can't work outside because of all the damn rain and I know that when I do get out everything is going to be different because idiots broke holds off because they don't give a crap about the climbing areas. If the rock is wet it will break. If the ground is wet it will break. If you see wet spots things will break. Open warning to anyone I see in the Garden, Red Rock Canyon, Ute Valley, or any other major sandstone area I might be in: If I see you climbing in or immediately after it has rained I will break your fingers. Now that I've gotten that out of my system, everybody enjoy climbing in Colorado, where it apparently rains every day.
Please come out to Wall St in Moab. You'll have plenty of fingers to break. They all seem to have green license plates.
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johnwesely
Jun 21, 2009, 12:31 AM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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subantz wrote: You forgot to mention brushing holds after rain also. I hear that nylon brushes will make nice jugs after a rain fall event on sandstone. but no one listens. Maybe because most people dont care about the concenquences. It happens alot just go to horse pens 40 and look around a few problems have been brushed not chipped. Sad but numbers do matter more to some people more than the the climbing for the fun of it. Those people need a stick clip stuck in the ars. Just to be clear climbing sandstone in/after the rain is a bad idea period no matter how hard the rock.
O RLY? I climb on Southern Sandstone. In/ After Rain all the time. I have never broke a hold while doing so.
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areyoumydude
Jun 21, 2009, 12:55 AM
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It's not just broken holds. Footholds get worn down. Cam placements wear pods in the rock even if you don't hang or fall on them. Plus I have seen hold that have broken off due to wet rock.
Sandstone is a sponge and gets super weak when it is wet.
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subantz
Jun 21, 2009, 1:35 AM
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No you dont john. Stop it.
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styndall
Jun 21, 2009, 1:47 AM
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johnwesely wrote: subantz wrote: You forgot to mention brushing holds after rain also. I hear that nylon brushes will make nice jugs after a rain fall event on sandstone. but no one listens. Maybe because most people dont care about the concenquences. It happens alot just go to horse pens 40 and look around a few problems have been brushed not chipped. Sad but numbers do matter more to some people more than the the climbing for the fun of it. Those people need a stick clip stuck in the ars. Just to be clear climbing sandstone in/after the rain is a bad idea period no matter how hard the rock. O RLY? I climb on Southern Sandstone. In/ After Rain all the time. I have never broke a hold while doing so.
Southern Sandstone is the best stone. I'd take T-Wall over Yosemite any day.
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coolcat83
Jun 21, 2009, 1:54 AM
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styndall wrote: Southern Sandstone is the best stone. I'd take T-Wall over Yosemite any day.
strong words
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 21, 2009, 2:15 AM
Post #10 of 29
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subantz wrote: ...horse pens 40 and look around a few problems have been brushed not chipped.
I think that's where some jacka$$es used wire brushes. Of course the best brush for HP is a Lapis brush. Those horse hairs just rake the chalk off. Like magic.
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subantz
Jun 21, 2009, 2:47 AM
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forkliftdaddy wrote: subantz wrote: ...horse pens 40 and look around a few problems have been brushed not chipped. I think that's where some jacka$$es used wire brushes. Of course the best brush for HP is a Lapis brush. Those horse hairs just rake the chalk off. Like magic.
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subantz
Jun 21, 2009, 3:48 AM
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I cant say I havent climbed out west, but isnt Yosemite Granite if so apples and oranges bro. I do like our rock hear in the south as well. So much so I dont even think of going to the west. Why ride in a car for two days when theres plenty to do here within a few hours. Enough for a live time, although a trip out west would be nice.
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 21, 2009, 4:37 AM
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subantz wrote: forkliftdaddy wrote: subantz wrote: ...horse pens 40 and look around a few problems have been brushed not chipped. I think that's where some jacka$$es used wire brushes. Of course the best brush for HP is a Lapis brush. Those horse hairs just rake the chalk off. Like magic. Are you being serious. If so where do I get one. As of now I dont even bother brushing unless a line is completely grimmed up from years of neglect.
Lapis brush:
- http://www.rockandsnow.com
- http://store.everestgear.com/
Steel brush
- http://www.yougotohellyougotohellandyoudie.com
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subantz
Jun 21, 2009, 5:07 AM
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Registered: Dec 7, 2007
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Hey forklift, your steel brush link is broken. I was hoping that it would at least go to something funny. Edit it and make it better. like this one.
www.getafuckinlife.comdont be upset this was the second thing I typed in google and it worked its not a verbal bashing. Just a better link, but yours made me laugh for a minute.
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marc801
Jun 21, 2009, 5:50 AM
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johnwesely wrote: O RLY? I climb on Southern Sandstone. In/ After Rain all the time. I have never broke a hold while doing so.
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subantz
Jun 21, 2009, 7:44 AM
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Are you saying that sandstone out west is just a giant choss pile. We have good granite also damn it I like Granite and sandstone both they both have their pluses and minuses.
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angry
Jun 21, 2009, 9:31 AM
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areyoumydude wrote: It's not just broken holds. Footholds get worn down. Cam placements wear pods in the rock even if you don't hang or fall on them. Plus I have seen hold that have broken off due to wet rock. Sandstone is a sponge and gets super weak when it is wet.
Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet.
This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been.
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johnwesely
Jun 21, 2009, 2:24 PM
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The stuff in the southeast proper is much harder than the RRG stone.
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marc801
Jun 21, 2009, 3:01 PM
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angry wrote: Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet. This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been.
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caughtinside
Jun 21, 2009, 5:08 PM
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marc801 wrote: angry wrote: Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet. This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been. Can't comment on RRG, but the Nutall Sandstone of the New River Gorge is very hard and is more similar to a quartzite. While the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek is hardly choss, it's far softer. Generic Hand Crack was originally 10a tight hands. It's now 10b and rattly hands just from climbing traffic. The stuff at Red Rocks is quite a bit harder, but it does absorb water during rain and gets weaker.
Generic Crack is 5.9.
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marc801
Jun 21, 2009, 6:26 PM
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caughtinside wrote: marc801 wrote: angry wrote: Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet. This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been. Can't comment on RRG, but the Nutall Sandstone of the New River Gorge is very hard and is more similar to a quartzite. While the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek is hardly choss, it's far softer. Generic Hand Crack was originally 10a tight hands. It's now 10b and rattly hands just from climbing traffic. The stuff at Red Rocks is quite a bit harder, but it does absorb water during rain and gets weaker. Generic Crack is 5.9.
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angry
Jun 21, 2009, 6:32 PM
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marc801 wrote: caughtinside wrote: marc801 wrote: angry wrote: Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet. This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been. Can't comment on RRG, but the Nutall Sandstone of the New River Gorge is very hard and is more similar to a quartzite. While the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek is hardly choss, it's far softer. Generic Hand Crack was originally 10a tight hands. It's now 10b and rattly hands just from climbing traffic. The stuff at Red Rocks is quite a bit harder, but it does absorb water during rain and gets weaker. Generic Crack is 5.9. Did I mean Incredible Hand Crack instead?
Yes you did and it's still a 5.9.
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budman
Jun 21, 2009, 7:06 PM
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Are you sure? Even a tired old man like me can climb it, on lead. Possibly 5.8. Oh yeh, don't climb on the sandstone when it's wet. Then again, not all sandstone is created equal. Back east, The New and Tenn. Wall are very old in sandstone years. Bullet hard because of age and being created under pressure, so I was told.
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caughtinside
Jun 21, 2009, 7:29 PM
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marc801 wrote: caughtinside wrote: marc801 wrote: angry wrote: Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet. This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been. Can't comment on RRG, but the Nutall Sandstone of the New River Gorge is very hard and is more similar to a quartzite. While the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek is hardly choss, it's far softer. Generic Hand Crack was originally 10a tight hands. It's now 10b and rattly hands just from climbing traffic. The stuff at Red Rocks is quite a bit harder, but it does absorb water during rain and gets weaker. Generic Crack is 5.9. Did I mean Incredible Hand Crack instead?
Also 5.9.
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caughtinside
Jun 21, 2009, 7:30 PM
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angry wrote: marc801 wrote: caughtinside wrote: marc801 wrote: angry wrote: Very true in a Utah sense. It's not ALL sandstone. RRG and Eldo are sandstone too. Not really a problem if they're wet. This southern sandstone that the others keep yammering about may be this variety. I don't know, I've never been. Can't comment on RRG, but the Nutall Sandstone of the New River Gorge is very hard and is more similar to a quartzite. While the Wingate sandstone of Indian Creek is hardly choss, it's far softer. Generic Hand Crack was originally 10a tight hands. It's now 10b and rattly hands just from climbing traffic. The stuff at Red Rocks is quite a bit harder, but it does absorb water during rain and gets weaker. Generic Crack is 5.9. Did I mean Incredible Hand Crack instead? Yes you did and it's still a 5.9.
GUd
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