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Is this biner safe?
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agdavis


Jun 24, 2009, 1:58 AM
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Is this biner safe?
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I was going through my rack today and noticed that one half of this biner's wire gate is bent. Is this biner still at full strength, or should it be moved into the bail biner pile?
Attachments: IMG_2281.JPG (89.5 KB)


Partner angry


Jun 24, 2009, 2:02 AM
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If you're talking about what I think you're talking about, I use biners in that condition all the time.

Post a pic though.


Partner angry


Jun 24, 2009, 2:04 AM
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I just noticed you had posted a pic. Duh.

I can't just say. It's tweaked a little more than the gates on most of my stuff but it's still engaging the nose.

It's your call.


yodadave


Jun 24, 2009, 2:07 AM
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Re: [angry] Is this biner safe? [In reply to]
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he posted an attachment, but from the pic i can't tell if the bend is meant to be there or not, the wires on many biners aren't perfectly symmetrical. Either way i'd still be using it.

Also you have a pile of bail biners? You need to share the love.


agdavis


Jun 24, 2009, 2:10 AM
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Re: [yodadave] Is this biner safe? [In reply to]
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yodadave wrote:
he posted an attachment, but from the pic i can't tell if the bend is meant to be there or not, the wires on many biners aren't perfectly symmetrical. Either way i'd still be using it.

Also you have a pile of bail biners? You need to share the love.

The wires on these are symmetrical...but no, i don't have a pile but i would be creating one Laugh


Tipton


Jun 24, 2009, 2:24 AM
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Re: [agdavis] Is this biner safe? [In reply to]
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I think you're fine. As long as it still engages the nose I wouldn't worry about it. I have a very slight bend in one of my hotwires also. On the other hand, I had a major bend in one that I retired. It was bent to such an extreme that it no longer latched onto the nose without force.


tradrenn


Jun 24, 2009, 6:53 AM
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agdavis wrote:
I was going through my rack today and noticed that one half of this biner's wire gate is bent. Is this biner still at full strength, or should it be moved into the bail biner pile?


I would keep using it, but I would also made that wire straight again with pliers, but that just me.


king_rat


Jun 24, 2009, 10:20 AM
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This does not look like significant damage the gate is still engaging so it should retain most(if not all) of its strength.

However at the end of the day its your call. biners are cheap, so if you are unsure, downgrade it to a


darkgift06


Jun 24, 2009, 5:34 PM
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that biner looks like its never even seen a rope b4.


qtm


Jun 24, 2009, 6:01 PM
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Does it open and close with the same force as other biners?

The spring action of the wiregate is due to the way it is attached. If the wire is bent, it can change the "springiness" of the gate. It's hard to tell from the picture which way it's bent, but it could cause the gate not to close completely, or not to have the same pressure keeping it closed.


md3


Jun 24, 2009, 6:18 PM
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Its time for you to sit down with your biner and have that owner / biner conversation you have been putting off. Lots of people become distracted with numbers and breaking strength and lots of other peripheral issues that just distract you from the important aspects of your biner's life and your relationship. Getting a little bent once in a while is normal. Getting seriously bent everytime you want to have some fun climbing can be a problem, but he has to realize it himself. Your advice can only accomplish so much. Some biners are just bent and you have to let them know that you still love them for who they are. But if he's bent because he wants attention or because he is on drugs or because hes being manipulated, you may need to take more serious steps.
As is always the case when you have suspicions about your gear, or it looks funny, just remember that it could be a transitional phase. You have a duty not to reject them and to show them how much you trust them by continuing to use them. If you don't show them that you trust them, they don't have much hope.
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boku


Jun 24, 2009, 6:22 PM
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md3 wrote:
...but he has to realize it himself...
In reply to:

How do you know it's a male biner?


vegastradguy


Jun 24, 2009, 6:24 PM
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Re: [md3] Is this biner safe? [In reply to]
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do you have any others of the same make and model to compare it to?

that'll be the quickest/safest answer. compare- if its the same, then you're golden. if not, retire it. easy.

edit: it looks like that bend in the wire is to shorten the one side so it'll fit into the hole in the bottom of the biner itself. gate looks clean. compare it to another of the same make and model to be sure.


(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Jun 24, 2009, 6:26 PM)


Outlaw25


Jun 24, 2009, 8:35 PM
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Stop being a girl and just use it
Compared to some of mine!!! yours is in mint condition


agdavis


Jun 25, 2009, 1:06 AM
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Outlaw25 wrote:
Stop being a girl and just use it
Compared to some of mine!!! yours is in mint condition

learn!!!! how to use punctuation correctly


desertwanderer81


Jun 25, 2009, 3:56 AM
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Hey man, it's seriously not cool talking about people of Mexican decent that way. They're just as safe as any other person in this country.


shockabuku


Jun 25, 2009, 4:14 AM
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I'd be a little suspicious; that bend looks oddly sharp. Is it really that sharp of a bend? Does the wire show any indications of cutting?


desertwanderer81


Jun 25, 2009, 5:01 AM
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agdavis wrote:
Outlaw25 wrote:
Stop being a girl and just use it
Compared to some of mine!!! yours is in mint condition

learn!!!! how to use punctuation correctly

Seriously.... and here I was thinking that I)m. bad at! puntuation and speling,


el_layclimber


Jun 25, 2009, 5:14 AM
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agdavis wrote:
I was going through my rack today and noticed that one half of this biner's wire gate is bent. Is this biner still at full strength, or should it be moved into the bail biner pile?

Hmmm.... probably not safe, therefore I will use it as the only piece when I retreat from a climb that is over my head.

Climbing logic rules. It just needs to rest a while, then it can go back on the normal rack.


agdavis


Jun 25, 2009, 5:58 AM
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shockabuku wrote:
I'd be a little suspicious; that bend looks oddly sharp. Is it really that sharp of a bend? Does the wire show any indications of cutting?

Yep, it is definitely as sharp as it looks.

No indications of cutting, but there is a small tick mark where the rock (I am assuming) created the bend in the gate.


bill413


Jun 25, 2009, 12:38 PM
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el_layclimber wrote:
Hmmm.... probably not safe, therefore I will use it as the only piece when I retreat from a climb that is over my head.
This is probably what I'd do - it becomes a shoe/water-bottle/retreat biner. (Or racking biner)

In reply to:
Climbing logic rules. It just needs to rest a while, then it can go back on the normal rack.
Laugh Too true.


billcoe_


Jun 25, 2009, 9:22 PM
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Brand new W/C


bill413


Jun 25, 2009, 10:01 PM
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billcoe_ wrote:
[image]http://media.rei.com/media/ss/b4de55cd-ed09-4854-b89b-562927a2aa90.jpg[/image]

Brand new W/C
Oh, man - good point - look how the color has degraded on the one in question.


Outlaw25


Jun 25, 2009, 10:29 PM
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Wink


Outlaw25


Jun 25, 2009, 10:33 PM
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Stop being a girl and just use it
Compared to some of mine!

yours is in mint condition

better Sly

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