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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2009, 3:48 AM
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OK, so I'm taking an 11 day road trip from Reno and doing a circuit of these three beautiful states!
I know that this isn't even enough to scratch the surface, but I wanted to get as much classic 5.8 max multipitch trad in in as many areas as possible. I already have a few ideas but I really wanted to hear from the locals what they had for advice!
Thanks in advance!
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2009, 3:54 AM
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Oh! And I should add that I plan on taking this trip in late August, if that makes a difference.
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desertwanderer81
Jun 25, 2009, 3:51 PM
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ooohhh! One of my friends recommended the Flatirons! Those look serious kick assing!
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moose_droppings
Jun 25, 2009, 4:17 PM
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Devils Tower (pretty warm in August) if you want hard sustained multipitch routes around 5.8. Its in the very north eastern part of the state though. If you get that far, might just as well slip through the Black Hills on your way back to Colorado. There are a number of good multipitch route up around the Sylvan/Harney area that remain a little more moderate temps in August. Be prepared for occasional major afternoon thunderstorms at either place.
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tedman
Jun 25, 2009, 4:21 PM
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multipitch?
Eldorado Canyon-
Bastile Crack 5.7 mega classic
Ruper 5.8 *pure* awesome. a #5 c4 is nice, a #4 will do in a pinch.
Rewritten 5.7 super classic
Calypso to Ragae 5.6-5.8 fun 2p classic
Wind Ridge 5.6 2p super fun warm up, if calypso is busy
Tigger 5.6 2p. right next to wind ridge, also super fun.
Lumpy Ridge
Melvin's Wheel 5.8 3p, hand jam heaven
Haitus 5.7 awesome fun
White Whale 5.7 more awesome fun
Kor's Flake 5.8+ super classic, long approach, 5p (big gear or big balls needed)
Vedauwoo
Edwards Crack 5.8 hand jammin like butter!
these are the most fun I've had on multipitch in the colorado area, can recommend them all from personal experience. Turkey Rocks also has some good longer stuff, but I've only been once.
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DaveCummings
Jun 26, 2009, 3:17 PM
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Eldorado Canyon
****Ruper 5.8
****Bastille Crack 5.7
****rewritten 5.7
****Swanton Arete 5.5
****Wind Ridge 5.8
****Reggae 5.8
****Long John Wall 5.8
***Gambit 5.8
Boulder Canyon
***The young and the rackless 5.9 sport East Blob Rock 4 pitches
****The owl 5.7 The Dome
****Empor 5.7+ Cob Rock
***North Face Center 5.7 Cob Rock
***Baileys overhang 5.8
Lumpy Ridge
****Pear Buttress 5.8+
***Osiris 5.7
****Melvin's wheel 5.8+
****Hiatus 5.7
****White Whale 5.7
****Kors Flake 5.7
Flatirons
****Direct East Face 5.6 to North Ridge 5.4 of 1st flatiron
****East Face 5.4 3rd flatiron
****North Face 5.6R The Maiden (Best Rap in CO)
High Peaks of RMNP
****South Face of Petit Grepon 5.8
****North Ridge of Spearhead 5.6
****Culp-Bossier of Hallets Peak 5.8+
This list may help for CO Boulder/Estes Park area have fun
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builttospill
Jun 27, 2009, 8:23 PM
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Just go to the Tetons and Wind River Range. Lots of classic stuff under 5.8.
Or maybe City of Rocks? It's a long drive to the front range of colorado from reno, I would think.
Most stuff in Utah seems like it would be too hot (in the desert) or not really classic enough to justify the drive (Little Cottonwood Canyon and the Wasatch Range).
Just my two cents. I'd spend all 11 days in the Winds, myself, but a Winds and Tetons trip combined would be pretty stellar. Not too far apart--2 hours driving max from Jackson Hole to the trailheads for the Winds.
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sidepull
Jun 27, 2009, 10:45 PM
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builttospill wrote: Just go to the Tetons and Wind River Range. Lots of classic stuff under 5.8. Or maybe City of Rocks? It's a long drive to the front range of colorado from reno, I would think. Most stuff in Utah seems like it would be too hot (in the desert) or not really classic enough to justify the drive (Little Cottonwood Canyon and the Wasatch Range). Just my two cents. I'd spend all 11 days in the Winds, myself, but a Winds and Tetons trip combined would be pretty stellar. Not too far apart--2 hours driving max from Jackson Hole to the trailheads for the Winds.
I second BTS' opinion with particular emphasis on the wind rivers part.
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