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super 8 belay device
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rainman0915


Jul 6, 2009, 11:28 PM
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super 8 belay device
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i have never used a super 8 but they look really smooth for long belay sessions as long as the climber isnt too heavy.

anyway just wondering peoples opinions on these


ski.ninja


Jul 7, 2009, 2:35 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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This thing? It's a nice little descending device, but I'd only use it to belay in some sort of an emergency. Typically my ATC guide does most of the belay/rappel work. Heck, I'd probably use a munter hitch before I'd use the super 8, but that's just me.


johnwesely


Jul 7, 2009, 5:09 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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Don't do it. It is not a belay device. Using it as such will kink your rope to no end.


shoo


Jul 7, 2009, 5:33 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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Fig 8s make terrible belay devices. They twist and kink the rope, and don't provide very good braking power without some clunky and inconvenient rigging.

Fig 8's are mainly for rappelling, since they offer a pretty smooth ride.


Tipton


Jul 7, 2009, 6:26 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
Don't do it. It is not a belay device. Using it as such will kink your rope to no end.

It IS a belay device, and it doesn't necessarily have to kink your rope. Thread the rope through the small hole just like you would a tube style device and clip a biner through the rope to your belay loop.

The downside of this method is that feeding slack can be a pain. The upside is that if you lock off hard, you really have a tight grip on the rope, like grigri tight.

That said, don't buy it. It's nowhere near as convenient as an ATC.


billcoe_


Jul 7, 2009, 6:30 AM
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Re: [Tipton] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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Tipton wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Don't do it. It is not a belay device. Using it as such will kink your rope to no end.

It IS a belay device, and it doesn't necessarily have to kink your rope. Thread the rope through the small hole just like you would a tube style device and clip a biner through the rope to your belay loop.

The downside of this method is that feeding slack can be a pain. The upside is that if you lock off hard, you really have a tight grip on the rope, like grigri tight.

That said, don't buy it. It's nowhere near as convenient as an ATC.

Ding ding ding ding ding we finally have a winner!!!!!!! You can double the biners with his method and it will feed smoother, that also increase the braking effect as well. And just get an ATC like the winner said, on occasion 8s can open a locked, locking carabiner and you'll die, since they are heavier anyway, why bother:-)

ps, for long single line raps, (single line raps only is all it does well!) the Petzl Stop is not to be believed if you are looking for awesome start there.



Regards

Bill


flippy04


Jul 7, 2009, 6:46 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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They're hell-of-a good for belaying...better than a spatula. Can also dub as a blunt force weapon for hand to hand combat, a lightning rod, and a dildo.


robbovius


Jul 7, 2009, 6:53 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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rainman0915 wrote:
i have never used a super 8 but they look really smooth for long belay sessions as long as the climber isnt too heavy.

anyway just wondering peoples opinions on these

I got one, just to try it out (I'm a gearhead, I want to try ALL the gear) and have belayed a couple climbers with it, and done a couple raps. it's okay, you CAN belay with it, but it doesn't feed or take up rope smoothly, and it does twist the rope, about as bad a a munter.

tellingly, mine hnow lives clipped to the top bar of my exterrnal frame pack where it can clank around loudly to let all the bears know I'm in the woods.
on routes, if I lose/forget/or have to give up my reverso3 (or other tube type i carry) such that I dont' ahve a tube type, I use a munter.

buy one if you want I guess,. but they aren't that kewl.


howlostami


Jul 7, 2009, 9:38 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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All that talk is some b*llshit. The only thing you have gear for is to win the shiny contest, and 8's are the shiniest! Sure they kink your rope and can be a bit akward, but you can power through those issues. Rock the 8 and rule the disco climbing gym!

Seriously though they're not bad to have around and they work fine. Sometimes a regular ATC can be tough to belay with if you're using large diameter rope or at a gym with really blown out rope. In that case the 8 might be easier on you as a belayer. Your concern about climber weight is valid, as they don't have as much friction as an ATC.

Full Disclosure: I have an 8 and I use it. I only ever use it for belaying for top-rope, and the occasional rappel on thick ropes (two blown out 10's or something like that) with prussik back-up. I like to keep it around just to mix things up, it's always good to be familiar with more gear, so long as you are using it properly and safely it's all good.


budman


Jul 7, 2009, 9:59 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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Haven't used an 8 in many years, as there are far better devices out there. When I belayed off an 8 I used only the small hole, like a stitch plate. It allows more friction and better control. As I have not used a super 8 best to contact the manufacturer in it's use. Using it in the rap mode for belaying IMHO doesn't provide enough friction.


majid_sabet


Jul 7, 2009, 10:25 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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most of the anti-8 n00bs in here do not know that the small hole in the 8 can be used as a belay device as good as a tube type


come on n00bz

get your 8 out and go learn how to belay and stop bitc8ing


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 7, 2009, 10:27 AM)


bill413


Jul 7, 2009, 5:52 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
most of the anti-8 n00bs in here do not know that the small hole in the 8 can be used as a belay device as good as a tube type
Pass and Fail.

If you are belaying with an 8, you must use it by threading the rope through the small hole like a Sticht plate. While you can use it in the rappel configuration to belay with, you are risking the climber's safety, since there is not that much friction there. Don't do it.
So, back to the "as good as a tube" statement. No. It is less convenient than a tube device, and with no keeper string or loop it can wander a fair distance away from the belay biner, causing extra distance in a fall before it locks up.

Yes, you can use it. There are much better alternatives.


milesenoell


Jul 7, 2009, 7:50 PM
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Re: [bill413] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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In germany a gym made me use an 8, and not through the small hole. That thing twisted my rope at least as bad if not worse than using a munter (and yes, I know to feed the rope in a straight orientation to avoid excess twist). The only 8 I ever want is the one I tie in with.


acorneau


Jul 7, 2009, 8:02 PM
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Re: [bill413] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
If you are belaying with an 8, you must use it by threading the rope through the small hole like a Sticht plate. While you can use it in the rappel configuration to belay with, you are risking the climber's safety, since there is not that much friction there. Don't do it.

I have some German friends that both use an 8 in the rap-position for belaying and they seem to be just fine catching normal lead falls.

It really comes down to what device you're used to and knowing how to use it correctly.


Tipton


Jul 7, 2009, 9:15 PM
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Re: [bill413] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
most of the anti-8 n00bs in here do not know that the small hole in the 8 can be used as a belay device as good as a tube type
Pass and Fail.

If you are belaying with an 8, you must use it by threading the rope through the small hole like a Sticht plate. While you can use it in the rappel configuration to belay with, you are risking the climber's safety, since there is not that much friction there. Don't do it.
So, back to the "as good as a tube" statement. No. It is less convenient than a tube device, and with no keeper string or loop it can wander a fair distance away from the belay biner, causing extra distance in a fall before it locks up.

Yes, you can use it. There are much better alternatives.

I think you two are saying the same thing...


majid_sabet


Jul 7, 2009, 10:20 PM
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Re: [Tipton] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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Tipton wrote:
bill413 wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
most of the anti-8 n00bs in here do not know that the small hole in the 8 can be used as a belay device as good as a tube type
Pass and Fail.

If you are belaying with an 8, you must use it by threading the rope through the small hole like a Sticht plate. While you can use it in the rappel configuration to belay with, you are risking the climber's safety, since there is not that much friction there. Don't do it.
So, back to the "as good as a tube" statement. No. It is less convenient than a tube device, and with no keeper string or loop it can wander a fair distance away from the belay biner, causing extra distance in a fall before it locks up.

Yes, you can use it. There are much better alternatives.

I think you two are saying the same thing...

he is copying me to get credit


irregularpanda


Jul 8, 2009, 2:52 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
most of the anti-8 n00bs in here do not know that the small hole in the 8 can be used as a belay device as good as a tube type


come on n00bz

get your 8 out and go learn how to belay and stop bitc8ing

OK buddy. Here's a small lesson in english, just the spelling, not the grammar.

It's S-H-I-T not SH!T

It's B-I-T-C-H not BITC8H

Its F-U-C-K not FU%K


That's how we curse. If you're going to use these words, don't dis-empower them by spelling them wrong. They are powerful words, and offer actual power to your statements.

When you spell them wrong intentionally, it removes the force of your statements.

It would be like If I finished every sentence with an irrelevant "PANCAKES". I would sound like a jackass if I did that. And you sound like a jackass when you can't spell words correctly that any 5th grader knows.


majid_sabet


Jul 8, 2009, 8:55 AM
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Re: [irregularpanda] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
most of the anti-8 n00bs in here do not know that the small hole in the 8 can be used as a belay device as good as a tube type


come on n00bz

get your 8 out and go learn how to belay and stop bitc8ing

OK buddy. Here's a small lesson in english, just the spelling, not the grammar.

It's S-H-I-T not SH!T

It's B-I-T-C-H not BITC8H

Its F-U-C-K not FU%K


That's how we curse. If you're going to use these words, don't dis-empower them by spelling them wrong. They are powerful words, and offer actual power to your statements.

When you spell them wrong intentionally, it removes the force of your statements.

It would be like If I finished every sentence with an irrelevant "PANCAKES". I would sound like a jackass if I did that. And you sound like a jackass when you can't spell words correctly that any 5th grader knows.

is this your DADDY ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D7rWLzloOI


marc801


Jul 8, 2009, 10:46 AM
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Re: [rainman0915] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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I ditched my 8 the minute I bought my first tube device and haven't used or wanted to use one since. That would have been around 1980.

So if you're insistent on belaying with an 8, are you also going to ditch your harness for a 2" webbing swami belt and tied leg-loops?


shimanilami


Jul 8, 2009, 11:46 AM
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Re: [flippy04] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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flippy04 wrote:
They're hell-of-a good for belaying...better than a spatula. Can also dub as a blunt force weapon for hand to hand combat, a lightning rod, and a dildo.

Nice.


mounter


Jul 8, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Re: [flippy04] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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also works well as a belt buckle, table center piece, paper weight, and back scratcher


(This post was edited by mounter on Jul 8, 2009, 12:48 PM)


robbovius


Jul 9, 2009, 7:24 AM
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Re: [acorneau] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
bill413 wrote:
If you are belaying with an 8, you must use it by threading the rope through the small hole like a Sticht plate. While you can use it in the rappel configuration to belay with, you are risking the climber's safety, since there is not that much friction there. Don't do it.

I have some German friends that both use an 8 in the rap-position for belaying and they seem to be just fine catching normal lead falls.

It really comes down to what device you're used to and knowing how to use it correctly.

I've belayed topropes with it inthe rap configuration, and it was actually a bit harder to takeup rope than the ATC XP I was using as my main belay device at the time. braking friction was easy to apply and at no time did I ever feel like I didn't have enough control of the rope and climber. it may have been the thickness of the rope (10mm+) and it may eb that a thinner rope would deliver less friction, but that kink you have to loop around the stem really does effect a decent amount of friction.

still, its kind of a pain in the ass and tube types are orders of magnitude better.


robbovius


Jul 9, 2009, 7:25 AM
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Re: [mounter] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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mounter wrote:
also works well as a belt buckle, table center piece, paper weight, and back scratcher

you forgot "nut-tool hammer"


bill413


Jul 10, 2009, 5:03 AM
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Re: [robbovius] super 8 belay device [In reply to]
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robbovius wrote:
mounter wrote:
also works well as a belt buckle, table center piece, paper weight, and back scratcher

you forgot "nut-tool hammer"

Ouch!


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