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boymeetsrock
Jul 20, 2009, 2:11 PM
Post #76 of 108
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 'atta boy billcoe_ !!!
Obviously you missed the last "lowering through the chains" thread ! 
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lrossi
Jul 20, 2009, 2:50 PM
Post #77 of 108
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What is the downside of just always having a couple of slings always girth-hitched to your harness? None.
I'm a clumsy fucktard who drops stuff. I'll never drop something girth-hitched to my harness. I'll never be at an anchor with no way to tie in.
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angry
Jul 20, 2009, 3:00 PM
Post #78 of 108
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billcoe_ wrote: Lowering off chains is a total idiot N00b move. Unless it's an emergency or there is some other extenuating circumstance, don't do it. Thread and rap.
Shut up
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dynosore
Jul 20, 2009, 3:57 PM
Post #79 of 108
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Take a whipper onto the bolt below, climb up, clean the draw, and repeat all the way down. Hopefully the crux is not near the ground and you can downclimb the last little bit. Always bring a crash pad.
Sorry, that's the only solution I can think of that's as dumb as the original question......
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jt512
Jul 20, 2009, 4:19 PM
Post #80 of 108
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lrossi wrote: I'm a clumsy fucktard who drops stuff. I'll never drop something girth-hitched to my harness. I'll never be at an anchor with no way to tie in.
I guess that consigns you to top roping for life.
Jay
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lrossi
Jul 20, 2009, 4:21 PM
Post #81 of 108
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jt512 wrote: lrossi wrote: I'm a clumsy fucktard who drops stuff. I'll never drop something girth-hitched to my harness. I'll never be at an anchor with no way to tie in. I guess that consigns you to top roping for life. Jay
No, I just carry extra stuff.
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jt512
Jul 20, 2009, 4:23 PM
Post #82 of 108
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lrossi wrote: jt512 wrote: lrossi wrote: I'm a clumsy fucktard who drops stuff. I'll never drop something girth-hitched to my harness. I'll never be at an anchor with no way to tie in. I guess that consigns you to top roping for life. Jay No, I just carry extra stuff.
That rather weakens your rationale for having a bunch of webbing girth hitched to your harness all the time.
Jay
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lrossi
Jul 20, 2009, 4:35 PM
Post #83 of 108
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jt512 wrote: That rather weakens your rationale for having a bunch of webbing girth hitched to your harness all the time. Jay
I just don't see the downside of carrying them. Thin slings weigh practically nothing.
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 4:50 PM
Post #84 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: sungam wrote: First off, I'd tie the hollow fig-8 before larks footing, and yes it would be awkward, but I personally just don't like fucking around and untying and tying in repeatedly. In my opinion, that's when fatal mistakes get made. You would be completely loose from the rope using your method. Fucking around trying to thread the chains you might drop it.
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marc801
Jul 20, 2009, 5:21 PM
Post #85 of 108
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sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: sungam wrote: First off, I'd tie the hollow fig-8 before larks footing, and yes it would be awkward, but I personally just don't like fucking around and untying and tying in repeatedly. In my opinion, that's when fatal mistakes get made. You would be completely loose from the rope using your method. Fucking around trying to thread the chains you might drop it. Only a retard wouldn't fix it to themselves in some way. Perhaps a clove hitch to the one biner you have or such that like.
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Johnny_Fang
Jul 20, 2009, 5:37 PM
Post #86 of 108
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Look at this, I go away for a few days on a climbing trip, come back, and discover that rc.com is just as fucking stupid as it was when I left. Why do I waste my time here?
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jt512
Jul 20, 2009, 5:44 PM
Post #87 of 108
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lrossi wrote: jt512 wrote: That rather weakens your rationale for having a bunch of webbing girth hitched to your harness all the time. Jay I just don't see the downside of carrying them. Thin slings weigh practically nothing.
More weight and bulk, and if you carry them instead of extra draws, then less utility. Plus they make you look like a total n00b almost as much as carrying two belay devices.
Jay
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budman
Jul 20, 2009, 5:56 PM
Post #88 of 108
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For what it's worth! Top rope off your own gear and thread and rap. What's accepted at a crag doesn't make it right. As to getting off a climb with chains, use the sling to rack booty gear and clip the locker through two upper links, clip in to your harness and lock the gate. Remember to anchor your rope before you untie, don't want to drop that puppy with all the ladies present. Thread the rope and blah, blah, blah, ............................. Hopefully I'll have a little more than a locker and a sling when I reach the anchor, but not a whole lot more.
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ski.ninja
Jul 20, 2009, 6:35 PM
Post #89 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: ski.ninja wrote: I'd rather lose my toe in a chainsaw accident then my whole leg, but the point is that I shouldn't have put myself in a situation where that was likely to happen in the first place. This entire scenario smacks of poor planning and lack of foresight. This is a sport route we're talking about, where copious amounts of information through sources such as guidebooks and/or local climbers would be available prior to the climber arriving at the crag. You are correct, let for the sake of the challenge say you dropped your extra draws at the climb?
You are getting ornery and this is becoming tedious. I may be recovering from surgery and drugged up to the gills, but even I have limits. You may have invaded my homeland, Viking, but our Skraelings sent you packing! We will not be intimidated by your iron weapons and woven fabrics!
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sittingduck
Jul 20, 2009, 7:59 PM
Post #90 of 108
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sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: sungam wrote: First off, I'd tie the hollow fig-8 before larks footing, and yes it would be awkward, but I personally just don't like fucking around and untying and tying in repeatedly. In my opinion, that's when fatal mistakes get made. You would be completely loose from the rope using your method. Fucking around trying to thread the chains you might drop it. Only a retard wouldn't fix it to themselves in some way. Perhaps a clove hitch to the one biner you have or such that like.
Why be cruel and have the retards drop their ropes?
You might find opening and closing a weighted biner difficult if it where a hanging belay.
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spanishbombs
Jul 20, 2009, 8:07 PM
Post #91 of 108
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Okay, everyone knows it is bad to top-rope off rings/chains (except in Hawaii, apparently).
However, there seems to be a lot of signal-to-noise about whether you rap or lower off of chains/rap rings. I also find a lot of conflicting opinions in real life. Would it be possible to actually decide whether you are allowed to lower off rings/chains or if you are supposed to rap? Thanks.
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sittingduck
Jul 20, 2009, 8:16 PM
Post #92 of 108
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ski.ninja wrote: sittingduck wrote: ski.ninja wrote: I'd rather lose my toe in a chainsaw accident then my whole leg, but the point is that I shouldn't have put myself in a situation where that was likely to happen in the first place. This entire scenario smacks of poor planning and lack of foresight. This is a sport route we're talking about, where copious amounts of information through sources such as guidebooks and/or local climbers would be available prior to the climber arriving at the crag. You are correct, let for the sake of the challenge say you dropped your extra draws at the climb? You are getting ornery and this is becoming tedious. I may be recovering from surgery and drugged up to the gills, but even I have limits. You may have invaded my homeland, Viking, but our Skraelings sent you packing! We will not be intimidated by your iron weapons and woven fabrics!
I'm injured and bored to, shoulder messed up after a tomahawk and now the snow is gone 
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acorneau
Jul 20, 2009, 8:24 PM
Post #93 of 108
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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spanishbombs wrote: Would it be possible to actually decide whether you are allowed to lower off rings/chains or if you are supposed to rap? Thanks.
No.
Expanded answer: Every region/area/crag has it's own ethics, traditions, customs, and even "hardware budget", so what works for one crag may not be the best for another.
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zchandran
Jul 20, 2009, 8:25 PM
Post #94 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: ski.ninja wrote: I'd rather lose my toe in a chainsaw accident then my whole leg, but the point is that I shouldn't have put myself in a situation where that was likely to happen in the first place. This entire scenario smacks of poor planning and lack of foresight. This is a sport route we're talking about, where copious amounts of information through sources such as guidebooks and/or local climbers would be available prior to the climber arriving at the crag. You are correct, let for the sake of the challenge say you dropped your extra draws at the climb?
Come on, if you're going to "what if" this to death, at least come up with some more plausible scenarios:
While in the midst of implementing your solution, your belayer stroked out and is now lying face down on top of his ATC device. You can't see his hands or the rope going through it. There is tension in the rope but you don't know if it will hold your weight.
Also, you're in the middle of grizzly bear country and rain is starting to gently fall.
Go.
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 8:36 PM
Post #95 of 108
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sittingduck wrote: You might find opening and closing a weighted biner difficult if it where a hanging belay.
And sorry for my immature choice of words, that was harsh of me.
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chilli
Jul 20, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #96 of 108
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Johnny_Fang wrote: Look at this, I go away for a few days on a climbing trip, come back, and discover that rc.com is just as fucking stupid as it was when I left. Why do I waste my time here?
haha. what a coincidence; i was just thinking the same thing.
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shermanr6
Jul 20, 2009, 8:50 PM
Post #97 of 108
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1. Thread the sling through both chains.
2. Tie an overhand with both ends of the sling.
3. Clip both loops to your belay loop with the locker.
4. Thread the chains and lower.
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jt512
Jul 20, 2009, 9:04 PM
Post #98 of 108
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sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: You might find opening and closing a weighted biner difficult if it where a hanging belay. Sorry, I don't use 25 year old beaner...
I can think of a number of follow-ups to this comment, anyone of which would get me into deep trouble.
Jay
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sungam
Jul 20, 2009, 9:09 PM
Post #99 of 108
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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jt512 wrote: sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: You might find opening and closing a weighted biner difficult if it where a hanging belay. Sorry, I don't use 25 year old beaner... I can think of a number of follow-ups to this comment, anyone of which would get me into deep trouble. Jay
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sittingduck
Jul 20, 2009, 9:13 PM
Post #100 of 108
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sungam wrote: sittingduck wrote: You might find opening and closing a weighted biner difficult if it where a hanging belay. Sorry, I don't use 25 year old beaners, so this isn't an issue. And sorry for my immature choice of words, that was harsh of me.
Would you not prefer a method that worked with all carabiners with no criteria for brand or age? Opening and closing carabiners that is a vital part of the belay should not be encouraged.
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