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suprasoup
Jul 14, 2009, 5:12 PM
Post #26 of 47
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hafilax wrote: That would be the heaviest and most expensive rack of cams possible.
Then you'd hate my rack:)
doubles OP Link Cams (.5-2)
BD C4 (.5-3)
BD C3 (Purple to Gold)
MasterCams (purple to yellow)
http://mountainproject.com/v/suprasoup/106488697
http://mountainproject.com/v/suprasoup/106485482
Seriously though the weight isn't that bad. The C4's (.5-2) is like 509 grams vs OP Link cams (.5-2) is like 591 grams. so a difference of 82 grams. we're talking the difference of a small cam here. The OP's don't hang around my harness like the C4's do so the weight is a nonissue.
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Jul 14, 2009, 5:16 PM)
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hafilax
Jul 14, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #27 of 47
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suprasoup wrote: hafilax wrote: That would be the heaviest and most expensive rack of cams possible. Then you'd hate my rack:) doubles OP Link Cams (.5-2) BD C4 (.5-3) BD C3 (Purple to Gold) MasterCams (purple to yellow) http://mountainproject.com/v/suprasoup/106488697 http://mountainproject.com/v/suprasoup/106485482 Seriously though the weight isn't that bad. The C4's (.5-2) is like 509 grams vs OP Link cams (.5-2) is like 591 grams. so a difference of 82 grams. we're talking the difference of a small cam here. The OP's don't hang around my harness like the C4's do so the weight is a nonissue. 
I'm not sure that I would like the smaller link cams. At that size pods and bottoming cracks become an issue. With the long stiff neck and big trigger how well do they work in horizontals?
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suprasoup
Jul 14, 2009, 6:06 PM
Post #28 of 47
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The #1 and the #2 definitely "feel" a lot heavier than their BD counterparts and that's mainly due to the balance. Link cams weight is all in the front whereas the BD's are more centered. I don't find this with the .5 and .75.
http://mountainproject.com/...501_large_fb62ed.jpg
In a pinch they work pretty well in a horizontal. I can tell you those placements would have been impossible with my purple and green C4's. The stems on the C4's are thicker so they don't bend as much...subjective here of course. Trigger, I haven't had any issues with them. When I sight a prospective placement I'm thinking in BD colors so if it's green I'll grab a green. I don't find a big difference between either cam when I'm spot on in my sizing. It's when I misjudge a placement a little or the crack has some funkiness to it is where the links really shine. It's for that small error that I have them.
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Jul 14, 2009, 6:11 PM)
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boku
Jul 14, 2009, 8:14 PM
Post #29 of 47
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One reason I'd hold off on buying Links is that as a beginner you will likely have a less practiced eye and hand for avoiding placements that trap gear. As a result, you are more likely to accidentally fix cams and not be able to get them out. So it may be better to gain that experience with cheaper pieces.
Also, there might be something about the Link that makes it a bit more prone to getting and staying stuck. I know where there are two of them fixed along popular Yosemite routes, and that they have been there for months is somewhat a testament to their fixedness.
That said, it can be really nice to have something with lots of range that you can fire into a wide range of crack sizes. Ultimately, it's your call.
Bob K.
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mikeo
Jul 15, 2009, 5:09 AM
Post #30 of 47
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Hahaha, a lot of my friends thought it was ridiculous of me to get the full set as part of my rack, I got them on sale from omega pacific for 287.95 a while ago off of the specials section of their site. They are a great "Oh Shit" piece, although I more found myself placing each size with 4 lobes on each side touching (8 lobes total) to prevent them from walking. The only one that has ever gotten stuck was the .5 when the 3rd piece of the lobe inverted and wedged itself in a crack (when it was placed on the 2nd piece of the lobe) if that makes any sense. When I saw what happened it was fairly easy to remove with a nut tool. Most of the time when I am climbing now that I have all of those sizes in C4's too, I place the C4 first as I feel much safer taking a big fall on it. With the C4's double axle I like to place them closer to being overcammed in constrictions where they might work passively as well.
My thoughts on Link Cams right now is that they are awesome for anchors, are a great "Oh Shit" piece, and are the coolest piece to play with when nowhere near any climbable rock. If you are on a budget, you might want to go with the C4's and use the extra $$ to get some tricams (pink + red) and other gear. Also, it looks like the deal direct from Omega Pacific on them is no longer active.
BTW: Most of the larger falls I have taken have been on C4's (once took two 10-15ft falls on a .3 in sandstone) and they have all held.
Edit: the sale is still on, although doesn't seem to be linked to from their main page.
http://www.omegapac.com/product207.html <- link cams
http://www.omegapac.com/product205.html <- wedgies (highly recommended, pretty much the same as BD's)
(This post was edited by mikeo on Jul 15, 2009, 5:15 AM)
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RolonRolon
Jul 16, 2009, 6:37 PM
Post #31 of 47
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As a beginning trad leader, I love the link cams. I also got the set on sale for about $300 so they weren't too much more expensive than c4's. I'd say they are a pretty good for someone learning trad.
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suprasoup
Jul 16, 2009, 9:28 PM
Post #32 of 47
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But then Boku you can say that about any gear really. Been around long enough to have seen pretty much all types of pro fixed. Ball Nutz, C4's, C3's, Links you name it. An inexperienced leader will make those mistakes regardless of the gear. Heck it even happens to experienced leaders. It's all a learning process. Finding the limits of your gears abilities as well as your own is what trainings all about.
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suprasoup
Jul 16, 2009, 9:48 PM
Post #34 of 47
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We gotta pay to play sometimes
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welle
Jul 20, 2009, 4:22 PM
Post #35 of 47
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boku wrote: One reason I'd hold off on buying Links is that as a beginner you will likely have a less practiced eye and hand for avoiding placements that trap gear. As a result, you are more likely to accidentally fix cams and not be able to get them out. So it may be better to gain that experience with cheaper pieces.
I saw a fairly new looking Link Cam fixed on Southern Pillar (5.2) in the Gunks this weekend. The cam was fully engaged and lobes broken, so it was jammed by its axels. Pretty stupid loss on an easy well-protected climb - a testament to Bob K's advice for beginners to hold off using Link Cams...
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Allanon124
Jul 22, 2009, 12:38 AM
Post #36 of 47
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Registered: Jul 19, 2009
Posts: 25
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first set (or double) c4, then supplement with omega.
pros for omega: when you are desperate. save them for last on unknown territory that way you have 12 sizes with 4 cams. you can slide them up the crack without taking them out. fit in flares and slots better. on easier climbs when you dont mind running it out all you need is 4 cams with 12 sizes (leader privlege, light load;)
cons: heavier (not by much), more expensive
Pros for bd: excelent base rack, can be used passively, cheaper, wider range than metolius, BOMBER
Cons: now made in china, heavier than metolius
conclusion omega is supplement
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zeke_sf
Jul 22, 2009, 1:15 AM
Post #37 of 47
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I doubled my C4 cams with the two larger links and have never regretted it. I'd go for the smaller links, but I don't need them. I don't really get the "specialty gear" connotations, but to each their own. Personally, I'd regret if I'd bought a set of hexes way more when I stared at them collecting dust in my gear closet every weekend.
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Allanon124
Jul 30, 2009, 4:26 PM
Post #39 of 47
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ya man, totaly dont use my hexs. i swear by omega, seriously. i ended up getting the little purple one cause i lost my .3 BD. i supplemented my .3 with a green alien. so i figured i would just get a link cause it was about the same price (on sale) as getting a new .3. Aliens are the SHIT!! blue black an green. havent used the masters yet but i think i would rather give my money to a company that originaly called their cams "alien sex tools" :D the only problem with the small omegas is they dont have much release play, they like to stay in the cracks.
peace
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sungam
Jul 30, 2009, 5:27 PM
Post #40 of 47
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Allanon124 wrote: i think i would rather give my money to a company that originaly called their cams "alien sex tools"
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gmggg
Jul 30, 2009, 6:16 PM
Post #41 of 47
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In reply to: give my money to a company that gives a shit about it's costumers
Funny, I usually just where a harness and some shorts...
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sungam
Jul 30, 2009, 7:24 PM
Post #42 of 47
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gmggg wrote: In reply to: give my money to a company that gives a shit about it's costumersFunny, I usually just where a harness and some shorts...
In other news, I'm going to the Bugs tomorrow so suck it.
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welle
Jul 30, 2009, 8:28 PM
Post #43 of 47
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Alpinisto wrote: welle wrote: I saw a fairly new looking Link Cam fixed on Southern Pillar (5.2) in the Gunks this weekend. The cam was fully engaged and lobes broken, so it was jammed by its axels. Pretty stupid loss on an easy well-protected climb - a testament to Bob K's advice for beginners to hold off using Link Cams... Hey, I was at the Gunks this weekend, too! Sorry I missed ya. I managed to get a pink Tricam stuck behind a flake on Easy O and Paul couldn't retrieve it, but I'm only out about $12, unlike the LinkCam owner... 
Hey, Alpinisto, looks like you'll be able to reunite with your pink tricam - http://www.gunks.com/lost-found/71909-pink-tircam-on-easy-o/
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zeke_sf
Jul 30, 2009, 8:48 PM
Post #44 of 47
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Allanon124 wrote: "alien sex tools" :D
I did not know that. Thank you.
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caughtinside
Jul 31, 2009, 12:44 AM
Post #45 of 47
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I heard it was alien sex toys.
Third hand though.
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Allanon124
Jul 31, 2009, 4:55 AM
Post #46 of 47
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Registered: Jul 19, 2009
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think you might be right, i got a bunch of OLD mags from someone and that was in one of their old adverts
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zeke_sf
Jul 31, 2009, 6:03 PM
Post #47 of 47
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caughtinside wrote: I heard it was alien sex toys. Third hand though.
It still doesn't make sense, but, goshdarnit, I like it.
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