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bill413
Jul 28, 2009, 12:03 AM
Post #26 of 64
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timh wrote: In reply to: I'm thinking of just carrying a WWII style pineapple grenade. Presently I'm not able to think of a problem that won't solve. Might to add flailing on a thin stance and grabbing the grenade as pro....problem solved
Gives new meaning to "sling the pin."
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healyje
Jul 28, 2009, 12:48 AM
Post #27 of 64
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acorneau wrote: I use it occasionally while route-setting. If I'm high on a ladder and it's getting shaky, I'll toss it on a nearby rope (along with my Purcell prussic) and snug it up, just in case I lose my balance.
Ah, got it - don't care much for ladders myself.
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healyje
Jul 28, 2009, 12:52 AM
Post #28 of 64
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When things look to be going south the last thing on my mind is a biner or anything parked on one. Such things may be useful after the fact, but the game is typically over at that point and the epic has begun.
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hafilax
Jul 28, 2009, 12:56 AM
Post #29 of 64
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I'm surprised that so many carry tiblocs. They're a pricey piece with less versatility than a piece of cord IMO.
I like having a short length of 6mm cord instead of relying on my 7mm anchor cord or dyneema slings both of which are slightly less secure for friction hitches.
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time2clmb
Jul 28, 2009, 12:58 AM
Post #30 of 64
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In reply to: You don't, but the added speed of a pulley makes up for its weight
Bzzzt try again.
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joeforte
Jul 28, 2009, 1:08 AM
Post #31 of 64
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acorneau wrote: healyje wrote: acorneau wrote: I keep a small locker with a Tibloc on my harness all the time. I'll add a 48" sling with 2 biners when I'm climbing outdoors. Have to ask, what do/would you do with Tibloc indoors? I use it occasionally while route-setting. If I'm high on a ladder and it's getting shaky, I'll toss it on a nearby rope (along with my Purcell prussic) and snug it up, just in case I lose my balance. [edit for spelling]
This is a bad idea. The tibloc should be set and weighted fully by hand. It is not meant to catch a fall. What's wrong with a simple clove hitch with an overhand backup?
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Alpine07
Jul 28, 2009, 1:44 AM
Post #32 of 64
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I would think that this would be the proper thing to keep on your "oh shit" biner.
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acorneau
Jul 28, 2009, 1:47 AM
Post #33 of 64
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joeforte wrote: This is a bad idea. The tibloc should be set and weighted fully by hand. It is not meant to catch a fall. What's wrong with a simple clove hitch with an overhand backup?
Trust me, on our fat gym ropes they "set" just fine by themselves.
What's wrong with a clove hitch? Nothing, except you can't put on a clove hitch at the bottom of a ladder and have it follow you all the way up to the top.
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joeforte
Jul 28, 2009, 1:59 AM
Post #34 of 64
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acorneau wrote: joeforte wrote: This is a bad idea. The tibloc should be set and weighted fully by hand. It is not meant to catch a fall. What's wrong with a simple clove hitch with an overhand backup? Trust me, on our fat gym ropes they "set" just fine by themselves. What's wrong with a clove hitch? Nothing, except you can't put on a clove hitch at the bottom of a ladder and have it follow you all the way up to the top.
A clove hitch is commonly used to self belay when aid climbing. Aid is slow, but as slow as setting a route? It's not very hard to pay slack through a clove once you've done it a few times. Like I said before, sliding a tibloc up a rope as a rope-catch/self-belay is a really bad idea. Posting it on a beginners forum, is even worse.
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acorneau
Jul 28, 2009, 2:14 AM
Post #35 of 64
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joeforte wrote: A clove hitch is commonly used to self belay when aid climbing. Aid is slow, but as slow as setting a route?
No, not setting a route, climbing a 20 foot ladder.
And I don't use it to "catch a fall", I get up on the ladder and if I feel off balance or unstable I'll use it as a backup with it already cinched up so all I would do is just sit on the rope.
In reply to: Like I said before, sliding a tibloc up a rope as a rope-catch/self-belay is a really bad idea. Posting it on a beginners forum, is even worse.
I didn't post it as an instruction for beginners, Healyje asked me what I used mine for and I told him. Let it go.
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ptlong
Jul 28, 2009, 2:45 AM
Post #36 of 64
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rockreaver wrote: I'm just curious what you carry on your "last resort" biner?
No biner. Just a small knife in my chalkbag. Maybe some tape.
Prusiks? I use slings. Tibloc? I'd bring prusik cords or real ascenders if I was planning on climbing the rope. Plastic pulley?? You're joking!
On long routes I will include a lighter (if there's wood) and a space blanket, but they don't go on a carabiner.
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fullmonty
Jul 28, 2009, 3:04 AM
Post #37 of 64
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My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard.
Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.
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MikeSaint
Jul 28, 2009, 3:36 AM
Post #39 of 64
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Ham Sandwich.
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dingus
Jul 28, 2009, 3:43 AM
Post #40 of 64
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fullmonty wrote: Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.
are you sure???
DMT
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angry
Jul 28, 2009, 3:57 AM
Post #41 of 64
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fullmonty wrote: My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard. Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.
Personally I tie my chalkbag with a shoelace. I think that could be more useful than a little piece of rope would be.
Don't tell the fucktards though.
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uni_jim
Jul 28, 2009, 4:57 AM
Post #42 of 64
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fullmonty wrote: My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard. Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die.
if i am using my chalkbag belt to save my ass, then i must have made one big ass mistake somewhere, and probobly deserve to be stuck on the mountain so i can think about what i did.
as for a headlamp, you are right that we may not need one for some walkoffs, but it might help me to climb/rappell once the sun disappears.
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trapdoor
Jul 28, 2009, 5:10 AM
Post #43 of 64
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Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 183
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I don't see anything wrong with carrying someting that does double duty like a 6 mil cord for your chalk bag. Where could you go wrong with that?
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mistajman
Jul 28, 2009, 5:31 AM
Post #44 of 64
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Registered: Apr 15, 2005
Posts: 136
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My oh shit biner is a dmm revolver with two prusiks, an extra atc, an 8 foot sling, and a few quick links.
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sungam
Jul 28, 2009, 5:33 AM
Post #45 of 64
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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angry wrote: fullmonty wrote: My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. If you need more than that then you just might be a bit of a fukctard. Headlamp? Come on, I have walked down in the dark after climbing Astroman and I didnt die. Personally I tie my chalkbag with a shoelace. I think that could be more useful than a little piece of rope would be. Don't tell the fucktards though.
Send me yore address, bitch.
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clintcummins
Jul 28, 2009, 6:41 AM
Post #46 of 64
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Posts: 135
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fullmonty wrote: My chalk bag is tied on with a section of 6mm cord. ...
Same here, except mine is 5mm. 5mm makes a great prusik. Sling OK for second prusik.
I have a tiny knife clipped to it with a tiny non-weight bearing biner.
I've found the knife useful for clearing slings out of bolt hangers.
No special biner, no lockers on my rack except one for my ATC and one more if I have my ascenders.
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ski.ninja
Jul 28, 2009, 9:07 AM
Post #47 of 64
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Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 123
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I have a couple of poop bags and some tissues on my 'Oh, Shit' biner.
Wait, there's no comma in there.
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sungam
Jul 28, 2009, 1:50 PM
Post #49 of 64
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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angry wrote: Personally I tie my chalkbag with a shoelace. I think that could be more useful than a little piece of rope would be.
Mine is tied on with prussic cord, and (giggle) my pant belt is 1" tubular webbing.
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Oh well just having a bit of fun while I wake up I suppose...
