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gmggg
Jul 29, 2009, 4:22 PM
Post #2 of 17
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Registered: Jun 25, 2009
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I'm right handed and for lowering/locking off I find it a little more comfortable to thread the left hole and have the rope come over and down through the right horn.
Practice rappelling a little bit, it is not too different, but you do need two hands...
It is an awesome device, although a little high friction with larger ropes. It is the best belay device I own, I just wish they still made them, I only use mine for multipich to try to reduce the eventual wear since it is (almost) irreplaceable, otherwise I would use it for almost everything!
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Carnage
Jul 29, 2009, 4:54 PM
Post #3 of 17
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923
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i'm so jealous. i want one.
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Khoi
Jul 29, 2009, 5:04 PM
Post #4 of 17
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Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
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Carnage wrote: i'm so jealous. i want one.
Same here. I can never find them on eBay when I search for them.
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adatesman
Jul 29, 2009, 5:15 PM
Post #5 of 17
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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Carnage
Jul 29, 2009, 5:42 PM
Post #6 of 17
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
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adatesman wrote: Me too, except in my case it's another. ... 6. If you end up not liking it I'll gladly take it off your hands...  -a.
so greedy....
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gmggg
Jul 29, 2009, 5:45 PM
Post #7 of 17
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Registered: Jun 25, 2009
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Extending it is a really good tip that I forgot to mention, I guess I extend all my rap devices so it got lost in translation.
The little rubber o-ring is a must! I'll take a look at the dimensions of the o-ring when I get home in case you don't have one and either of you wants to get one. I use an Attache with the Tre on the narrow side. This makes clipping really easy and I find the longer distance of the Attache end to end more comfortable with this device than other biners.
I haven't noticed the heat from rapping too much, do you have a B vesion? But I will keep that biner trick in mind just in case...
If Edelrid makes a dual rope zap-o-mat I hope that it will feel a little sturdier than the single rope model. It seems like the took a simple idea (the Tre) and added a few extra steps and pieces of plastic to something that is really pretty simple.
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adatesman
Jul 30, 2009, 12:33 AM
Post #8 of 17
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rgold
Jul 30, 2009, 4:05 AM
Post #9 of 17
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Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1804
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I was an early and enthusiastic user of the TRE. I think it is by far the best device for belaying with half ropes. However, there were some issues.
First of all, once worn a bit, the device cannot be trusted to lock of on rappel with half ropes if the brake hand is released. This isn't a drawback unless you've decided you have an autolocking device, in which case there could be fatal consequences.
Second, the device doesn't necessarily lock well under low loads. You shouldn't have to lock back on it the way you do with an ATC, but I found this sometimes necessary when belaying seconds. I think Edelrid tried to address this issue by building in a variable-tension plunger spring.
There are so many advantages that on balance the device is still superior, I believe at one point I must have posted a long list of advantages, but don't have a link to it now. A search will probably turn it up.
Oh yeah---forget the o-ring, you don't need it. It may help to use an asymmetrical locker with a narrow end though.
I have no interest in the single rope Edelrid model, but am looking forward to their double-rope version.
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qwert
Jul 30, 2009, 12:24 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
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Most stuff is covered so far, so i only have a few things to add:
- The rubber. It is not absolutely neccesary, but i think it makes using the TRE much easier. Just take a ring from a used bicycle tire (Not shure if thats the right word, the inside part, roadbikes work best).
-Palms up/ Palms down: Seems like you can belay like with an ATC or similar, but you get best results and easiest operation when you use it like a munter hitch, with both hands above the belay device. The dudes that developed it are rather oldschool, so their benchmark device is the HMS/munter, so they wanted to get close to it.
-edelrid Zapomat: nice device, a few cool improvements, but only single rope.
If they make a dual rope device it will be quite cool, if they fix one issue: Turn the goddam clip hole back to a normal orientation  The clip in hole on the zapomat is turned 90° versus the TRE. Its a pain to use, the rope always feels "wrong" in the hand. So even though the zapomat has a few improvements, i prefer the TRE by lengths.
qwert
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sspssp
Jul 30, 2009, 11:04 PM
Post #11 of 17
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
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adatesman wrote: 3. I prefer using an oval locker on it, as that seems to give the most freedom of movement. I've also used a Petzl Attache on occasion and that works pretty well too. The main thing you want to avoid is the hole sliding down the spine and getting caught, which seems to happen less with ovals. BTW, apparently the TRE shipped with a little rubber keeper thing that is supposed to go on the biner to keep it in place, but it was missing on mine and I've never bothered to find/make one.
The rubber keeper broke pretty quickly on mine. It is important to have a setup to keep the device from sliding down the biner. I had a "belay master" biner (DMM?) that had a plastic cross piece that kept the TRE from sliding down. Worked great.
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sspssp
Jul 30, 2009, 11:07 PM
Post #12 of 17
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
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I like the TRE at first, but after a while, I liked it less.
The wearing down is a big issue and then it doesn't lock off as well.
If you do a double rope rap with the ropes different sizes, it doesn't grip the smaller rope very well.
But the lead belaying is nice, the catch is pretty good. If the device is not too worn, letting go will lock you off and hold you in place when rapping.
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bill413
Jul 30, 2009, 11:12 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674
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rgold wrote: This isn't a drawback unless you've decided you have an autolocking device, in which case there could be fatal consequences.
Thinking you have a device that automatically does things for you (such as belaying or rappellng) does have this problem. Well put.
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acorneau
Aug 4, 2009, 12:48 AM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
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I received my TRE in the mail today.
It came in very good condition, just a few minor cosmetic scratches and almost no wear at all. It also came with an Omega Jake autolocker in near-new condition, which I don't care for, but whatever.
I'll be trying it out in the gym tomorrow and look forward to seeing what you TRE zealots are all about.
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acorneau
Sep 4, 2009, 3:18 PM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
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Update:
Ok, the TRE seems to be pretty cool device, very ingenious design.
I found that in the heat of the moment (concentrating on my leader) I still reverted to ATC-style belaying, which made feeding slack out difficult.
That being said, I'm going to pass this guy on to it's future owner. Instead of putting it back on eBay immediately, I'll entertain offers from anyone interested (PM please).
Thanks.
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cracklover
Sep 4, 2009, 4:02 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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How much do you want for it?
GO
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acorneau
Sep 4, 2009, 5:45 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
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cracklover wrote: How much do you want for it?
One million dollars!!!
Actually:
acorneau wrote: ... I'll entertain offers from anyone interested (PM please). |
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