I've been wondering how many people nowadays carry a third tool. It may just be me, but it seems that older mountaineering literature talks about it a lot, while the newer stuff seems to leave the subject out more than not. And i'm not talking about when you head out for a bit of ice cragging. More in the situation where dropping a tool would have much bigger consequences. There are a lot of variables and such in deciding this, so just think something like technical multi day mountain route. Lets say... up to WI 4, maybe a bit of 5. So, lets hear it, just looking for some opinions on the subject.
How about umbilical cords on your primary tools? Or obviously climb with leashes.
Im not sure Id enjoy the weight of a 3rd, however im a gram counting weenie...
I'm not taking a position one way or the other w.r.t leashes, but the umbilical cords will be a bigger help than the leashes with regard to dropped tools. Supposedly a lot of tool mishaps occur when someone comes out one of the leashes to place a screw than hits the tool with an errant elbow or the like.
a grivel evo hammer is just over one pound and could make a pretty good third tool. I've never done a multi-day alpine route but I imagine if I was doing serious, technical ice the weight of a third tool for plunging might be worth it to be able to climb with some ergonomic leashless tools.
but for me, multi-day alpine routes with WI5 are laughably distant, so I don't really have any idea of what I'm talking about.
Usually my partner has an extra tool, and I'd be happy to loan him one of mine if he needed it. one tool is enough to get up most anything on a top rope. If you drop two, climb the rope or bail.
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