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angeleyes
Aug 3, 2009, 5:57 PM
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Registered: Feb 26, 2009
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Hi,
I'm looking for a shoe that is very good for both edging and smearing, though it doesn't have to be outstanding in either. If I need something in the outstanding department I'll go with a shoe specialized for just that. Anyway, can anyone comment on if Evolv Pontas Lace ups might fit the great for for edging and smearing requirements?
Velcro closure is fine too though I prefer lace, I can't tell for sure from site if there's a difference to the shoe other than lace/velcro fasteners.
Previously I've been using Sportiva Mythos but they're a bit soft and weak on the edging side of things, awesome for smearing however.
Also have Five Ten Anasazi velcros which are good for edging but weak on smearing.
Looking for something a bit more inbetween for an my around shoe on both indoor and outdoor, I most often climb 5.10c 5.11b V3-V5 in So Cal areas.
thanks
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Carnage
Aug 3, 2009, 6:25 PM
Post #2 of 15
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the lace and velcro are two very different shoes. im speaking only about the velcro, i'd say they are good at both edging and smearing.
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vegastradguy
Aug 3, 2009, 6:27 PM
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the Pontas Lace are actually much different than the Pontas- they have different lasts and a different purpose.
the lace are very good edging shoes, and i hear that they smear fairly well also. i have not used them, despite everyone i know who has a pair badgering me to get them.
i do wear the Pontas, though, and consider them an excellent all around face climbing shoe- and probably crack as well if your toes dont knuckle like mine do. i wear them for just about everything except for specialized routes.
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Shintao
Aug 3, 2009, 7:04 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2009
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I have some Pontas Lace-Ups, they edge very well and smear quite well. The Trax rubber is great and I love these shoes overall. I have a friend who got the velcros and he loves them as well.
All I know is that I can place my foot on a super tiny edge and feel very comfortable my foot is staying place.
Cheers
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Myxomatosis
Aug 3, 2009, 9:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
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I have a velco pair. They are good at edging and haven't really noticed a poor smearing performance either.
I do think the anaz's are better at edging tho and also the rubber on my pontas's have nearly worn alot faster than any other climbing shoe Ive owned.
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angeleyes
Aug 3, 2009, 9:20 PM
Post #6 of 15
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Thanks for the replies, I think I'll give the velcros a try. Can you tell me how much if at all, you sized down?
For this pair once broken in I'd like to be able to wear them for at least three or four hours without having to pop them off to ease my feet and put them back on again.
Sounds like with their normal sizing and supposed non stretch I might not need to size down to get that kind of fit.
thanks again
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Shintao
Aug 3, 2009, 9:35 PM
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I didn't size down at all. I could have probably gone down a half size, but mine fit great as is. And the non-stretch is true, I love mine.
What type of climbing are you doing mostly?
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angeleyes
Aug 3, 2009, 9:57 PM
Post #8 of 15
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Registered: Feb 26, 2009
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Shintao wrote: I didn't size down at all. I could have probably gone down a half size, but mine fit great as is. And the non-stretch is true, I love mine. What type of climbing are you doing mostly?
Ahh good to know thanks, sounds about right from what they say.
mostly trad leads and outdoor sport leads. I do indoor bouldering, sport leads, and some tr during the week. Outdoor is what I care the most about.
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asiaclimber
Aug 3, 2009, 10:07 PM
Post #9 of 15
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Registered: Aug 21, 2007
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Red Bandits. Best shoe I have ever worn for everything. Smears great, edges great. I climb lots of edge slab stuff up to 11.c with no problem trasfering from a smear to a dime edge. Probably the stickiest rubber I have ever had on a shoe.
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USnavy
Aug 4, 2009, 7:51 AM
Post #10 of 15
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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angeleyes wrote: Hi, I'm looking for a shoe that is very good for both edging and smearing, though it doesn't have to be outstanding in either. If I need something in the outstanding department I'll go with a shoe specialized for just that. Anyway, can anyone comment on if Evolv Pontas Lace ups might fit the great for for edging and smearing requirements? Velcro closure is fine too though I prefer lace, I can't tell for sure from site if there's a difference to the shoe other than lace/velcro fasteners. Previously I've been using Sportiva Mythos but they're a bit soft and weak on the edging side of things, awesome for smearing however. Also have Five Ten Anasazi velcros which are good for edging but weak on smearing. Looking for something a bit more inbetween for an my around shoe on both indoor and outdoor, I most often climb 5.10c 5.11b V3-V5 in So Cal areas. thanks
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angeleyes
Aug 4, 2009, 2:48 PM
Post #11 of 15
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Registered: Feb 26, 2009
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asiaclimber wrote: Red Bandits. Best shoe I have ever worn for everything. Smears great, edges great. I climb lots of edge slab stuff up to 11.c with no problem trasfering from a smear to a dime edge. Probably the stickiest rubber I have ever had on a shoe.
Thanks! somehow I missed that model, ordered a pair of those and the pontas velcros yesterday for my all arounders to try.
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angeleyes
Aug 12, 2009, 4:00 PM
Post #12 of 15
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Registered: Feb 26, 2009
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asiaclimber wrote: Red Bandits. Best shoe I have ever worn for everything. Smears great, edges great. I climb lots of edge slab stuff up to 11.c with no problem trasfering from a smear to a dime edge. Probably the stickiest rubber I have ever had on a shoe.
I got these I'm inclined to agree best all around shoe I've tried.
I got my normal street shoe size, can only wear them for about an hour and half currently after about four sessions. That's longer than I could after the first few sessions. Hopefully they break in / stretch a bit more so I can get 3 or 4 hours with them on.
Performance is great, excellent blend of edge/smear abilities
thanks again
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rockandlice
Aug 12, 2009, 7:26 PM
Post #13 of 15
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Registered: Dec 13, 2008
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angeleyes wrote: asiaclimber wrote: Red Bandits. Best shoe I have ever worn for everything. Smears great, edges great. I climb lots of edge slab stuff up to 11.c with no problem trasfering from a smear to a dime edge. Probably the stickiest rubber I have ever had on a shoe. I got these I'm inclined to agree best all around shoe I've tried. I got my normal street shoe size, can only wear them for about an hour and half currently after about four sessions. That's longer than I could after the first few sessions. Hopefully they break in / stretch a bit more so I can get 3 or 4 hours with them on. Performance is great, excellent blend of edge/smear abilities thanks again
I've got them in a full size down and a full 1.5 size down from my street shoe. The size down is now too loose after 7 months of use and relegated to training/gym use. These are the previous grey bandit fwiw.
They edge incredibly well when new, and the rubber is super sticky, but not surprisingly the edge is gone after about 3-4months of regular climbing.
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camhead
Aug 12, 2009, 7:42 PM
Post #14 of 15
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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I got a pair of the Pontas laceups a few months ago, and am reasonably happy with them for edging. I haven't used them for pure smearing yet, but could see them being as good as Mieras or Anasazis for it (i.e., not exception, but definitely competent). They seem to be good, vertical all-arounders.
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asiaclimber
Aug 13, 2009, 8:34 AM
Post #15 of 15
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Registered: Aug 21, 2007
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no problem. they wont really stretch but they do mold to your feet so they become more comfortable over time. best advice is to go climbing out side and sweat in them and climb slabs. For some reason climbing slabs always molds shoes to my feet really well. Have fun climbing with them.
Mike
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