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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 3:20 AM
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yodadave wrote: i meant thats what i say as i peel not that is what i want done as i peel. Then, um, maybe you shouldn't say it? Jay
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yodadave
Aug 10, 2009, 3:39 AM
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hopefully not but i'm not ruling it out thankfully my communication with my belayer usually involves more than 2 words and so ledge/ground fall potential is usually a known to both of us. Also it would seem to me that by saying take instead of falling I am risking a stiff catch rather than busted ankles
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 3:47 AM
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yodadave wrote: ...it would seem to me that by saying take instead of falling I am risking a stiff catch rather than busted ankles You are risking a broken ankle because of a stiff catch. If your belayer puts you on tension above your pro, you'll pendulum into the wall, unless the route is really steep. That's how people break ankles in sport climbing. Jay
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milesenoell
Aug 10, 2009, 3:52 AM
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jt512 wrote: milesenoell wrote: jt512 wrote: "Up rope" means "reduce the amount of slack in the rope, but do not 'take'." It's antonym is "slack." Jay Maybe I'm the nOOb making up my own commands but "slack" is what I call to my belayer when I get short-roped on lead. And? Jay And?! and? And that is the same as what you said. But I wasn't paying attention and thought you said something else.
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yodadave
Aug 10, 2009, 3:54 AM
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point taken, thanks
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marc801
Aug 10, 2009, 5:21 AM
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ShibbyShane wrote: I tend to just use "take." I've heard other people, friends included, using "tension" but I never liked it. And i'd never heard the term "up rope" before this thread. All the folks saying "I perfer this" or "I never heard of that"......you don't get to decided what standardized terms in use for over 50 years mean. Read some books. Learn some history.
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sky7high
Aug 10, 2009, 5:47 AM
Post #32 of 194
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jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot. I'm aware that there will be some people who do this, so I stick to ignoring them most of the time
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 5:50 AM
Post #33 of 194
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sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot. I'm aware that there will be some people who do this, so I stick to ignoring them most of the time I read your whole post. Jay
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USnavy
Aug 10, 2009, 6:02 AM
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yodadave wrote: for me .... Take is when i'm on the sharp end and peeling off When I am on the sharp end and about to fall I am a hell of a lot more inclined to say slack. Fall distances are irrelevant on hard, vertical climbs where you’re well off the ground. What is relevant is how hard you swing back into the rock. Asking for a take will make that swing quite hard. On lead, I never use the command take unless I am working a project and want to rest on a bolt that I have not yet passed. Beyond that, take is a top rope command. Anyway this is all irrelevant because competent belayer will be able to execute the proper moves without you calling them. If you’re about to peel off they should know what to do even before you do. If you have to call "falling" out to your belayer before you peel off, you need a new belayer. The ONLY time I call falling is if for some reason I get out of sequence and want to jump off and try again (which is quite rare because I generally just go for it anyway). Other than that, falls simply happen. You should NEVER have to call any commands to your belayer in order to get them ready to catch a fall. A competent belayer will always be ready for a fall.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 10, 2009, 6:08 AM)
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EricSmith
Aug 10, 2009, 6:06 AM
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I hate "take". The way I learned it, two syllables should be used for "up" and one syllable for "down" For example, "up rope", "tension", "watch me" and "falling" are all two syllables and the belayer is taking in rope. If the belayer misunderstood the request, but got the syllables correct, relatively little harm is done. One syllable terms include "slack" "rope" and "rock". Things are either falling down, or the belayer is paying rope out. Since "take" could sound like "slack", the climber could end up with more rope when they wanted less. That is why we say "rock" whether what is coming down is a rock or a piton.
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 6:06 AM
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USnavy wrote: When I am on the sharp end and about to fall I am a hell of a lot more inclined to say slack. That is almost signature worthy. If you honestly need more slack when you are about to fall, then your belayers are incompetent. Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 10, 2009, 6:07 AM)
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curt
Aug 10, 2009, 6:07 AM
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sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot... He didn't imply, he inferred. Curt
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 6:09 AM
Post #38 of 194
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EricSmith wrote: One syllable terms include "slack" "rope" and "rock". Things are either falling down, or the belayer is paying rope out. Huh? Jay
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USnavy
Aug 10, 2009, 6:13 AM
Post #39 of 194
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jt512 wrote: USnavy wrote: When I am on the sharp end and about to fall I am a hell of a lot more inclined to say slack. That is almost signature worthy. If you honestly need more slack when you are about to fall, then your belayers are incompetent. Jay My point was, I would rather have a reasonable amount of extra slack in the system then a tight rope pulling me down. No, I don’t need to call slack. Yes my [competent] belayers do have a proper amount of slack in the system at all times. I don’t need to call shit when I fall, I just fall (as it should be).
(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 10, 2009, 6:15 AM)
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 6:17 AM
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USnavy wrote: jt512 wrote: USnavy wrote: When I am on the sharp end and about to fall I am a hell of a lot more inclined to say slack. That is almost signature worthy. If you honestly need more slack when you are about to fall, then your belayers are incompetent. Jay My point was, I would rather have a reasonable amount of extra slack in the system then a tight rope pulling me down. No, I don’t need to call slack. Yes my [competent] belayers do have a proper amount of slack in the system at all times. I don’t need to call shit when I fall, I just fall (as it should be). U r kerrekt (4 1ce) (Damn gumbies. Sometimes they occasionally learn something.) Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 10, 2009, 6:19 AM)
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ShibbyShane
Aug 10, 2009, 7:13 AM
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marc801 wrote: ShibbyShane wrote: I tend to just use "take." I've heard other people, friends included, using "tension" but I never liked it. And i'd never heard the term "up rope" before this thread. All the folks saying "I perfer this" or "I never heard of that"......you don't get to decided what standardized terms in use for over 50 years mean. Read some books. Learn some history. Not trying to imply what is or is not standardized, nor what should be. Simple saying that I hadn't heard that term before, and that it seems as if it would be hard to hear over long distances due to lack of hard consonants. Sorry that I haven't read everything there is to read about climbing to learn about belay commands...
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sky7high
Aug 10, 2009, 7:21 AM
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jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot. I'm aware that there will be some people who do this, so I stick to ignoring them most of the time I read your whole post. Jay So then you just decidedly ignored the second half because you wanted to augment your ego by making someone else look ridiculous. I'm glad I could be of service.
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mikebee
Aug 10, 2009, 9:34 AM
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Seems that us Aussies use some pretty different terms to you yanks. I've never heard "tension" or "up rope" being used as common commands. "Take" is used over here, but maybe a little differently. Over here we tend to use "take" to tell the belayer to take in some excess rope. This can be said if the leader is sketching a bit and worried about the length of the fall, or simply if they've noticed that there's a bit too much rope in the system. This extends to TRing in the gym or outdoors also. If I'm climbing a sport route and want to rest on a bolt, then I'll tend to say "take hard", meaning "take in everything you can, as I'm about to weight the rope for a rest".
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fresh
Aug 10, 2009, 3:51 PM
Post #44 of 194
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EricSmith wrote: I hate "take". The way I learned it, two syllables should be used for "up" and one syllable for "down" For example, "up rope", "tension", "watch me" and "falling" are all two syllables and the belayer is taking in rope. If the belayer misunderstood the request, but got the syllables correct, relatively little harm is done. One syllable terms include "slack" "rope" and "rock". Things are either falling down, or the belayer is paying rope out. Since "take" could sound like "slack", the climber could end up with more rope when they wanted less. That is why we say "rock" whether what is coming down is a rock or a piton. how about three syllables for humans going up, and four for humans going down? "ascending" and "fuck fuck fuck fuck" are my votes.
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jt512
Aug 10, 2009, 3:54 PM
Post #45 of 194
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sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot. I'm aware that there will be some people who do this, so I stick to ignoring them most of the time I read your whole post. Jay So then you just decidedly ignored the second half because you wanted to augment your ego by making someone else look ridiculous. I'm glad I could be of service. The second "part" (most of us would call it a sentence) states that you use the commands inconsistently. I have no idea why you would think that I was ignoring that sentence. Jay
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dingus
Aug 10, 2009, 4:06 PM
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rocknrock wrote: and fewer use 'take' to mean 'up rope'. thanks Angry jerk on rope = up rope. If I have to do that more than 2 or 3 times in a pitch, when I do yell up rope they leader will bloody well know I am tired of doing her job for her. DMT
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dingus
Aug 10, 2009, 4:07 PM
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j_ung wrote: The technically correct answer is that take means, "I want to fully rest on the rope." Tension and up rope are interchangeable. They both mean, "Make it tighter than it currently is." No. Up rope means get the frickin slack out of this system. It doesn't mean support the climber in anyway. Tension on the other hand, does. DMT
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dingus
Aug 10, 2009, 4:09 PM
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milesenoell wrote: jt512 wrote: "Up rope" means "reduce the amount of slack in the rope, but do not 'take'." It's antonym is "slack." Jay Maybe I'm the nOOb making up my own commands but "slack" is what I call to my belayer when I get short-roped on lead. Ummm.... uh.... never mind. DMT
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dingus
Aug 10, 2009, 4:15 PM
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sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot. I'm aware that there will be some people who do this, so I stick to ignoring them most of the time I read your whole post. Jay So then you just decidedly ignored the second half because you wanted to augment your ego by making someone else look ridiculous. I'm glad I could be of service. The disclaimer in the 2nd half of your post did not offset the bad advice you presented in the first part of your post. Enter JT512 - he will dispell bad beginner advice with the ruthless efficiency of an executioner. Quoting your disclaimer would have contributed nothing toward negating your bad advice, though it may have made you feel better about yourself. DMT
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sky7high
Aug 10, 2009, 4:57 PM
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dingus wrote: sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: jt512 wrote: sky7high wrote: I dislike "up rope", I'd rather say "take" for picking up the slack and "tension" for resting on the rope; it makes more sense to me. I'm aware most of my partners don't use the terms that way, so I stick to "up rope" most of the time. Good idea to change the meanings of what are essentially universally recognized climbing commands. We need to abolish standardization, since the meaning of all words is relative anyway. What possible negative consequences could there be if "take" means "take up some of the slack" to you, but "put me on tension" to your belayer? Go for it, I say. Jay Yeah, I also dislike flamers in the inturdnetz who don't bother to read the second half of my post before quoting the entire thing and implying I'm an idiot. I'm aware that there will be some people who do this, so I stick to ignoring them most of the time I read your whole post. Jay So then you just decidedly ignored the second half because you wanted to augment your ego by making someone else look ridiculous. I'm glad I could be of service. The disclaimer in the 2nd half of your post did not offset the bad advice you presented in the first part of your post. Enter JT512 - he will dispell bad beginner advice with the ruthless efficiency of an executioner. Quoting your disclaimer would have contributed nothing toward negating your bad advice, though it may have made you feel better about yourself. DMT The first part says what I think i.e. my opinion; note the term "dislike". It was NOT meant as advice. The second part states what I do. IF anyone is taking anything out of my post as advice, the intelligent thing to do would be taking what I DO in the real world as advice. But evidently that is not going to stop the flamers out there from picking on someone who thinks before following the crowd.
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