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camhead
Aug 12, 2009, 3:57 PM
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You may have seen this clip before. I can't remember what film it is from, but I was amused to see it up on youtube. Chris Sharma climbs Moonlight Buttress (5.12d) in Zion National Park. It's funny how he almost treats this famous testpiece, which is the pinnacle of many climbers' careers, as a moderate day out of scrambling. I suppose it would be about the same as a 5.12 sport climber going out for a day of "moderate" 5.9 multipitching. The video does not say if he actually sent, or onsighted, or whatever. Still, pretty cool.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 12, 2009, 4:03 PM
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Nice video. Thanks for sharing.
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krosbakken
Aug 12, 2009, 4:04 PM
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Its in King Lines. A pretty sweet film. They sent it but they didn't say if they fell or not but if one would have fallen I bet they would have had it on the film, but maybe not.
(This post was edited by krosbakken on Aug 12, 2009, 4:09 PM)
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dhorgan
Aug 12, 2009, 4:08 PM
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camhead wrote: It's funny how he almost treats this famous testpiece, which is the pinnacle of many climbers' careers, as a moderate day out of scrambling. It's almost like he's on a little day hike! Cool video...
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cracklover
Aug 12, 2009, 4:19 PM
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Totally! You can see that he can't really get into it as a goal, and isn't that psyched when they top out. He's trying to be psyched for his friend's sake. And he *is* psyched to be climbing with his friend. But the climb itself? Ho hum. I've been there, actually. On a much lower level, but yeah. Just funny to sit it on Moonlight free. GO
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caughtinside
Aug 12, 2009, 4:19 PM
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Sharma is like the worlds greatest trad climber, he just doesn't come out and do it that often because it makes everyone else look so bad. He onsighted the Excellent Adventure .13b on the Rostrum like 10 years ago. But let's talk about the truly bad ass, Chris sending Jumbo Love 5.15b!!! http://www.youtube.com/...&feature=related
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shimanilami
Aug 12, 2009, 4:48 PM
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A friend of mine has known Sharma since he was 14 ... belayed him on his first 5.14, in fact. My friend told me Sharma's first trad climb was the Nutcracker, 5.9. The next day, he climbed the Rostrum, 5.11b. He's just that strong.
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spikeddem
Aug 12, 2009, 5:05 PM
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shimanilami wrote: A friend of mine has known Sharma since he was 14 ... belayed him on his first 5.14, in fact. My friend told me Sharma's first trad climb was the Nutcracker, 5.9. The next day, he climbed the Rostrum, 5.11b. He's just that strong. Retrace your steps and maybe you'll find that name.
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lena_chita
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Aug 12, 2009, 5:25 PM
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yes, I remember seeing it in the film before, and thought almost exactly the same thing as you.
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shimanilami
Aug 12, 2009, 5:29 PM
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Chris Bellizzi, if you must know. Another story from Chris - the same day Sharma sent his first 5.14 (at the Jailhouse), he campused a 5.13b because he didn't like its foot sequence. It's hard to comprehend. But then again, I watched Sharma campus a V10 in a gym because he didn't like its feet either. Talk about humbling ...
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caughtinside
Aug 12, 2009, 5:30 PM
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The Raven!
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GeneralZon
Aug 12, 2009, 5:47 PM
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Check out 1:52. Sweet trad Gri Gri!!!
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rockandlice
Aug 12, 2009, 7:39 PM
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Cool clip, thanks for sharing camhead. I noticed after the clip was over youtube recommended a newish jumbo love clip. May be old news, but first decent clip I've seen of this climb. http://www.youtube.com/...YDl2uaIItuk&NR=1
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jeepnphreak
Aug 12, 2009, 8:35 PM
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GeneralZon wrote: Check out 1:52. Sweet trad Gri Gri!!! I was just thinking that. If sharma can use a gri gri than so can I damn it!.
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Myxomatosis
Aug 12, 2009, 9:59 PM
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I think I read somewhere on the Sender Films website that the first of there doco's on Discovery channel will feature Chris on Jumbo... 'First Ascent' is its name.
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JasonsDrivingForce
Aug 13, 2009, 1:30 AM
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rockandlice wrote: Cool clip, thanks for sharing camhead. I noticed after the clip was over youtube recommended a newish jumbo love clip. May be old news, but first decent clip I've seen of this climb. http://www.youtube.com/...YDl2uaIItuk&NR=1 I hadn't seen that one before. It is only 4 days old. Very Cool!
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mikebee
Aug 13, 2009, 11:09 AM
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In reply to: I hadn't seen that one before. It is only 4 days old. Very Cool! Thats straight from King Lines also, so it's been out on DVD for about a year or so. Great clip, but I'd love to see one of him sending the route.
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