|
gogo
Aug 19, 2009, 3:16 PM
Post #1 of 32
(10673 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
|
Hi RC.com peoples -
Starting my trip planning thoughts in advance.
I have several weeks free mid-winter (mid-Dec to mid-Jan), know that I have a few people willing to travel with me in the middle of winter to find warmer climates and sport routes.
Been up and down the West Coast and CO/UT, Red Rocks several times, now looking for somewhere new where I can spend a few weeks working long routes and staying relatively warm and dry.
I've been thinking of possibly getting out of the country and going down to El Potrero, or possibly even Cuba, but the travel costs to either of those places is a little higher and I don't know if I'll have enough saved up for it.
Suggestions?
|
|
|
|
|
subantz
Aug 19, 2009, 5:03 PM
Post #2 of 32
(10642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2007
Posts: 1247
|
The southeast. Pretty nice weather and good climbing. Check these places out. Red River Gorge, The Obed, Foster Falls, New River Gorge. and that should be a good start. You can find info in the route database. Just dont tell anybody that the climbing here kicks colorado's ass. We dont chip or glue holds here and our sandstone is way better than the choss piles out west.
|
|
|
|
|
yevquest
Aug 19, 2009, 5:45 PM
Post #3 of 32
(10620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 71
|
I'll provide another perspective on the southeast to the above poster. Not sure what you mean about "long routes". If you mean multipitch sport climbing, there's very little of it in the southeast. What little exists is 2 pitches.
The sport climbing in the South can be very good in the winter but hit or miss. The New is normally very cold during the heart of the winter, same with the Red. Sure, you can get random warm days but I wouldn't plan on it. The Obed is a pretty good winter destination although nights will be cold. Tieranny and South Clear get lots of sun. Foster Falls isn't a destination crag and isn't great in the heart of winter. The harder routes get very little sun and wouldn't be enjoyable. The Tennessee Wall has some excellent sport climbing that gets lots of sun although the good routes are (for the most part) 12c and up. Hope this helps give you a realistic view.
Yeah, there's no glue used in the southeast...uh sure....and no drilled pockets either....uh huh.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 19, 2009, 5:49 PM
Post #4 of 32
(10618 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
The potrero is warm and has long routes, but the climbing is rather uninspiring in my opinion.
There's some spots in CA, but those southeast areas might be a better bet.
Southern Utah is a popular winter spot. Mesquite NV, and St. George/Hurricane UT areas.
(This post was edited by caughtinside on Aug 19, 2009, 5:50 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
gogo
Aug 19, 2009, 6:16 PM
Post #5 of 32
(10603 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
|
Hmmm - most interesting indeed.
The Red was somewhere I've really wanted to check out, but wasn't sure how the climate would be - and if I'm going to travel all the way across the country for a climbing spot, I'd like to stay dry and warm.
Obed sounds cool; cold nights are fine cause we will just bundle up in sleeping bags and wine does a great job keeping me warm!
Tennessee wall - is that at Obed? The difficulty isn't so much of an issue, just wall angle - had shoulder surgery in december, but its feeling solid enough to pull 5.12 again as long as it is not severely overhanging, so I'm positive about climbing back at the harder grades in another six months of training and rehab.
By long routes I mean long single pitch and multipitch routes, which is one of the reasons potrero looked appealing.
I lived in Grand Junction, CO for a few years and climbed a lot in Colorado and Utah, so I'm trying to shy away from those spots. And living in Washington, we've taken a lot of trips up and down Cali.
I can't remember if I've climbed at Mesquite. Is that lost arrow canyon area?
|
|
|
|
|
BenKenobi
Aug 19, 2009, 6:25 PM
Post #6 of 32
(10596 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2008
Posts: 20
|
Tucson/Mt. Lemmon
|
|
|
|
|
LostinMaine
Aug 19, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #7 of 32
(10579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
|
BenKenobi wrote: Tucson/Mt. Lemmon
I was given that advice last year and got snowed off of Mt. Lemmon. The road was closed from the (IIRC) 16 mile mark up. Only got in two good days of climbing because of the piss poor weather...
But those two days were fantastic!
|
|
|
|
|
gblauer
Moderator
Aug 19, 2009, 7:12 PM
Post #8 of 32
(10560 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
|
I love EPC. While it's expensive to get there ($500) to fly, it's really cheap once you do arrive. Camping is $5 per day, food about the same. You can even get there on the cheap. Fly Southwest airlines to Houston and take the bus from HOU to Monterrey, Mexico. You can then get picked up by Milton or Ed or Luis (one of their services) for about $25. You don't need a car while you are there, the cliffs are within walking distance of any place that you would likely stay.
The climbing is amazing (with all due respect to the poster who said it was uninspiring). I climbed the longest sport route in North America; Time Wave Zero. At 23 pitches (21st pitch a stinger of a 12a), the climbing was varied, fun and LONG. So, consider EPC, you will be very happy that you did. There is a lifetime of climbing there; from easy peasy multi pitch to really righteously hard single pitch climbs.
The weather can be all over the place; 80 degrees one day and cold the next. Make sure that you plan for weather. In the winter most people bring down jackets for the evenings.
|
|
|
|
|
crazy_fingers84
Aug 19, 2009, 7:19 PM
Post #9 of 32
(10557 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 418
|
Smith Rock, OR ... it will be warm if it is sunny there, which it usually is.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 19, 2009, 7:29 PM
Post #10 of 32
(10547 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
gblauer wrote: The climbing is amazing (with all due respect to the poster who said it was uninspiring). I climbed the longest sport route in North America; Time Wave Zero. At 23 pitches (21st pitch a stinger of a 12a), the climbing was varied, fun and LONG.
I'm definitely in the minority, as most folks there liked it. But I'd describe the multipitch routes as repetitive, boring and LONG. Mostly lower angle ladders with a bolt every 10 feet and anchors every 100. The multis there felt like low quality trad routes to me.
The cragging was better, but nowhere near world class. If you're a 5.10 sport climber it might be a better area for you than if you are a 5.12 sport climber.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Aug 19, 2009, 8:16 PM
Post #11 of 32
(10513 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
caughtinside wrote: gblauer wrote: The climbing is amazing (with all due respect to the poster who said it was uninspiring). I climbed the longest sport route in North America; Time Wave Zero. At 23 pitches (21st pitch a stinger of a 12a), the climbing was varied, fun and LONG. I'm definitely in the minority, as most folks there liked it. But I'd describe the multipitch routes as repetitive, boring and LONG. Mostly lower angle ladders with a bolt every 10 feet and anchors every 100. The multis there felt like low quality trad routes to me. The cragging was better, but nowhere near world class. If you're a 5.10 sport climber it might be a better area for you than if you are a 5.12 sport climber.
You nailed it. For me the thrill of being able to go up and down the long routes so quickly with minimal gear compensates for the actual climbing being somewhat repitious. Plus the unique atmosphere is a nice novelty to keep one entertained. But for my son - who climbs a lot harder then 5.12 - it was kind of boring after he climbed out the Surfbowl the first morning. There are some harder longer routes though as well as other steeper areas not too far away if you can arrange transportation.
The basic problem for the OP is that they want to go in the absolute dead of winter - shortest possible days in the northern hemisphere. No place (in the northern hemisphere) is going to be guaranteed to be warm and dry.
|
|
|
|
|
byran
Aug 20, 2009, 1:57 AM
Post #12 of 32
(10461 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 266
|
I'm sure you could find some stuff around southern Arizona and southern New Mexico that's nice in the winter. I haven't climbed too much there so I can't really recommend any places, but I do remember climbing in Socorro Box, NM a few years ago during Christmas and it was perfect weather in the sun.
|
|
|
|
|
ShibbyShane
Aug 21, 2009, 3:04 AM
Post #13 of 32
(10407 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2008
Posts: 166
|
caughtinside wrote: The potrero is warm and has long routes, but the climbing is rather uninspiring in my opinion. There's some spots in CA, but those southeast areas might be a better bet. Southern Utah is a popular winter spot. Mesquite NV, and St. George/Hurricane UT areas.
Where are the spots in California? I too live in Sactown, so the closer the better. (I looked at your profile)
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 21, 2009, 4:26 AM
Post #14 of 32
(10379 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
ShibbyShane wrote: caughtinside wrote: The potrero is warm and has long routes, but the climbing is rather uninspiring in my opinion. There's some spots in CA, but those southeast areas might be a better bet. Southern Utah is a popular winter spot. Mesquite NV, and St. George/Hurricane UT areas. Where are the spots in California? I too live in Sactown, so the closer the better. (I looked at your profile)
Echo Cliffs in Ventura County and New Jack City, near Barstow, are good winter sport crags.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Aug 21, 2009, 7:06 AM
Post #15 of 32
(10355 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
jt512 wrote: ShibbyShane wrote: caughtinside wrote: The potrero is warm and has long routes, but the climbing is rather uninspiring in my opinion. There's some spots in CA, but those southeast areas might be a better bet. Southern Utah is a popular winter spot. Mesquite NV, and St. George/Hurricane UT areas. Where are the spots in California? I too live in Sactown, so the closer the better. (I looked at your profile) Echo Cliffs in Ventura County and New Jack City, near Barstow, are good winter sport crags. Jay
|
|
|
|
|
csproul
Aug 21, 2009, 12:02 PM
Post #16 of 32
(10325 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
|
And I wouldn't exactly call Echo a destination.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Aug 21, 2009, 12:43 PM
Post #17 of 32
(10314 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
csproul wrote: And I wouldn't exactly call Echo a destination.
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Aug 21, 2009, 12:54 PM
Post #18 of 32
(10308 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
olderic wrote: caughtinside wrote: gblauer wrote: The climbing is amazing (with all due respect to the poster who said it was uninspiring). I climbed the longest sport route in North America; Time Wave Zero. At 23 pitches (21st pitch a stinger of a 12a), the climbing was varied, fun and LONG. I'm definitely in the minority, as most folks there liked it. But I'd describe the multipitch routes as repetitive, boring and LONG. Mostly lower angle ladders with a bolt every 10 feet and anchors every 100. The multis there felt like low quality trad routes to me. The cragging was better, but nowhere near world class. If you're a 5.10 sport climber it might be a better area for you than if you are a 5.12 sport climber. No place (in the northern hemisphere) is going to be guaranteed to be warm and dry.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Aug 21, 2009, 12:57 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
rock_ranger
Aug 21, 2009, 1:35 PM
Post #19 of 32
(10288 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 189
|
gogo wrote: Hmmm - most interesting indeed. The Red was somewhere I've really wanted to check out, but wasn't sure how the climate would be - and if I'm going to travel all the way across the country for a climbing spot, I'd like to stay dry and warm. Tennessee wall - is that at Obed? The difficulty isn't so much of an issue, just wall angle - had shoulder surgery in december, but its feeling solid enough to pull 5.12 again as long as it is not severely overhanging, so I'm positive about climbing back at the harder grades in another six months of training and rehab.
If the overhang aint your thang, don't go to the Red.
|
|
|
|
|
gogo
Aug 21, 2009, 2:19 PM
Post #20 of 32
(10278 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 198
|
Hi -
I was saying right now severely overhanging isn't the best feeling thing, but that if I can pull vertical 5.12 and easy overhanging routes now, then in another six months overhanging difficult routes will be back in the routine.
Hawaii, eh? That would be a great spot and I have friends there I could stay with, but the travel cost is pretty high, huh?
The other spot I was thinking was Cuba...
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 21, 2009, 3:52 PM
Post #21 of 32
(10247 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
olderic wrote: The basic problem for the OP is that they want to go in the absolute dead of winter - shortest possible days in the northern hemisphere. No place (in the northern hemisphere) is going to be guaranteed to be warm and dry.
Echo Cliffs is pretty close to a guarantee. It's very unlikely that he'd get rained out for more than a couple days. And it's almost always ridiculously warm there. It's not really a destination crag, though, as others have mentioned. On the other hand, New Jack City arguably is a destination crag that (luckily) hasn't become a destination yet. The weather is not quite as predictable at New Jack as it is at Echo, but camping is free. SoCal isn't a world-class sport climbing destination, but between Echo, NJC, and Red Rock (only 2 hours from NJC) there is plenty of quality winter sport climbing.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
roadstead
Aug 22, 2009, 2:34 PM
Post #22 of 32
(10195 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2004
Posts: 248
|
Hells Canyon Idaho
|
|
|
|
|
ccspikes
Sep 9, 2009, 9:36 PM
Post #23 of 32
(10015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 15, 2006
Posts: 33
|
olderic wrote: caughtinside wrote: gblauer wrote: The climbing is amazing (with all due respect to the poster who said it was uninspiring). I climbed the longest sport route in North America; Time Wave Zero. At 23 pitches (21st pitch a stinger of a 12a), the climbing was varied, fun and LONG. I'm definitely in the minority, as most folks there liked it. But I'd describe the multipitch routes as repetitive, boring and LONG. Mostly lower angle ladders with a bolt every 10 feet and anchors every 100. The multis there felt like low quality trad routes to me. The cragging was better, but nowhere near world class. If you're a 5.10 sport climber it might be a better area for you than if you are a 5.12 sport climber. You nailed it. For me the thrill of being able to go up and down the long routes so quickly with minimal gear compensates for the actual climbing being somewhat repitious. Plus the unique atmosphere is a nice novelty to keep one entertained. But for my son - who climbs a lot harder then 5.12 - it was kind of boring after he climbed out the Surfbowl the first morning. There are some harder longer routes though as well as other steeper areas not too far away if you can arrange transportation. The basic problem for the OP is that they want to go in the absolute dead of winter - shortest possible days in the northern hemisphere. No place (in the northern hemisphere) is going to be guaranteed to be warm and dry.
If your son was bored after one day at the Surf Bowl he must be a very one-dimensional climber. There are tons of steep climbs for the 5.12-5.13 climber throughout the park. There are some huge 5.13 roofs in the Pride area and some good long, hard climbs at the Mileski and High Life Walls. There are also several routes on the Outrage Wall that have yet to be freed. There are also miles of big unclimbed walls waiting for a first ascent.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Sep 10, 2009, 2:41 PM
Post #24 of 32
(9954 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
ccspikes wrote: olderic wrote: caughtinside wrote: gblauer wrote: The climbing is amazing (with all due respect to the poster who said it was uninspiring). I climbed the longest sport route in North America; Time Wave Zero. At 23 pitches (21st pitch a stinger of a 12a), the climbing was varied, fun and LONG. I'm definitely in the minority, as most folks there liked it. But I'd describe the multipitch routes as repetitive, boring and LONG. Mostly lower angle ladders with a bolt every 10 feet and anchors every 100. The multis there felt like low quality trad routes to me. The cragging was better, but nowhere near world class. If you're a 5.10 sport climber it might be a better area for you than if you are a 5.12 sport climber. You nailed it. For me the thrill of being able to go up and down the long routes so quickly with minimal gear compensates for the actual climbing being somewhat repitious. Plus the unique atmosphere is a nice novelty to keep one entertained. But for my son - who climbs a lot harder then 5.12 - it was kind of boring after he climbed out the Surfbowl the first morning. There are some harder longer routes though as well as other steeper areas not too far away if you can arrange transportation. The basic problem for the OP is that they want to go in the absolute dead of winter - shortest possible days in the northern hemisphere. No place (in the northern hemisphere) is going to be guaranteed to be warm and dry. If your son was bored after one day at the Surf Bowl he must be a very one-dimensional climber. There are tons of steep climbs for the 5.12-5.13 climber throughout the park. There are some huge 5.13 roofs in the Pride area and some good long, hard climbs at the Mileski and High Life Walls. There are also several routes on the Outrage Wall that have yet to be freed. There are also miles of big unclimbed walls waiting for a first ascent.
He did a few hard longer things on the Outrage - I forget what - in the hard 12 easy 13 range I think. Developing new routes given the generally poor rock quality is not really viable for a short vacation.
But in general there is not the steep varied rock there that does exist at other areas not too far away.
As far as being one dimensional - he has been doing some hard mixed stuff in the Tetons the last few years as well as freeing some old granite aid lines in the northeast - a lot moer varirty then anything in EPC.
|
|
|
|
|
ccspikes
Sep 10, 2009, 10:06 PM
Post #25 of 32
(9920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 15, 2006
Posts: 33
|
It's good to hear that your son isn't hung up on just climbing steep juggy stuff like a lot of people I know. Still, I can't imagine anyone being bored at El Potrero Chico, no matter how hard they climb.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
