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adatesman


Aug 31, 2009, 2:08 PM
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LostinMaine


Sep 1, 2009, 9:42 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
Hey all,

Heading up to Roger's Rock in a couple days and am looking to slim the rack down a bit. I don't recall using/wanting anything terribly big when we did Little Finger, so am thinking of leaving everything bigger than a #1 Camalot at home. Bad idea? Do the other routes require larger gear? If they do I have no problem bringing it; its just I don't feel like dragging it along only to leave it sitting in the pack.

Thx!

-a.

I'm not sure what you plan on climbing there, but I've only done Little Finger, Little Finger Direct, screaming meanie and a bolted route on the right side of the cliff (1 pitch).

For LF and LF direct, I don't recall using anything larger than a #1 cam either. I wouldn't be too concerned, anyway, because that crack sucks passive gear like a champ and it is relatively low-angled. My only concern is bringing enough draws... IIRC pitches 1 and 2 were truly rope-stretching 180-200' pitches. Running it out was fine because of the climb, but my normal 10-12 draws was not quite enough for comfort. Pitch 3 of LF direct was fine and relatively short (until the sketchy traverse to the right).

Screaming meanie was also easily protected, though a bit more runout, with nothing bigger than a #2. Because it starts up and left of LF, the pitches were shorter as well, so draws weren't an issue.

Hope that helps!

Edited to add detail and to paddle my canoe for the approach.


(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Sep 1, 2009, 9:47 AM)


boymeetsrock


Sep 1, 2009, 9:55 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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I've only been once, and it was a while ago, but...

From what I remember you should be fine with nothing bigger than a #1 Cam.

I did LF and a couple of the bolted routs to the climbers left of LF. The bolted routes I used some gear on, but nothing as big as a #1 Cam.

Take it with a grain of salt. And have a GREAT time. How you getting out there?


adatesman


Sep 1, 2009, 10:19 AM
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bill413


Sep 1, 2009, 11:41 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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I just take my standard rack...I know I use the #1 camalot (because I had a second drop it...) but not sure about anything larger. Ummm...maybe #2 if you do that wall at the top? Not sure. Definitely only bring larger if you need to anchor the canoe.

I like LostInMaine's description - jibes very well with my memories of it.

But don't forget 2 very, very, very critical pieces of gear: WATER and SUNSCREEN. It bakes up there.

Have fun!


boymeetsrock


Sep 1, 2009, 11:48 AM
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Shit, I might drive up there just to see you 'row' the canoe!! Tongue

...Sorry couldn't help myself.

Canoeing is great though. Easy to get hooked. Take here up to the Adk's and do some portaging. See how into it she really is! Laugh

Have fun up there !!! (jeluz)


adatesman


Sep 1, 2009, 12:13 PM
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boymeetsrock


Sep 1, 2009, 3:32 PM
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I'm sure the tank will serve you well! You can swim. Right? Sly


But really, I was doing what any good RC.com'er would have done and picking on your vocabulary. Obviously your not much of a seamen.Tongue

"Oars" are for rowboats, which the good captain would 'row'.

"Paddles" are for canoes, which you my friend will be 'paddling'.



Although, in reading your description of the canoe in question... Oars may do just fine!



Have a great time Aric. Like I said before. I'm JELUZ!!!!11!!!1


adatesman


Sep 1, 2009, 4:21 PM
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sbaclimber


Sep 2, 2009, 12:57 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
Something tells me I don't really need 2 sets of nuts, 2 sets of Tricams .5-2.0 (plus one each .125 and .25), a set of Ballnutz, and what's effectively doubles #3 Zero through #1 BD, but it looks like that's what ended up in the bag. Unsure
Holy hell! ...and I thought I packed heavyTongue

Get rid of the 2nd sets of everything, and the lowe balls, add the #2 BD and then you'll have enough for RR.

I used to do Little Finger (normal and direct) with only 2 sets of nuts. I would've traded one set for a set of tricams though. Specifically for building the belay stance above the crux bulge on LFD. What's left of the crack when it peters out up there doesn't really take 3 good wires, but it does take 1 good wire and two bomber tricams.

caveat: I am relying on my memories from ~10yrs ago...

The walking approach I will never ever forget either though!!! Only did that once...Pirate


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Sep 2, 2009, 12:58 AM)


LostinMaine


Sep 3, 2009, 4:16 AM
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sbaclimber wrote:
adatesman wrote:
Something tells me I don't really need 2 sets of nuts, 2 sets of Tricams .5-2.0 (plus one each .125 and .25), a set of Ballnutz, and what's effectively doubles #3 Zero through #1 BD, but it looks like that's what ended up in the bag. Unsure
Holy hell! ...and I thought I packed heavyTongue

Get rid of the 2nd sets of everything, and the lowe balls, add the #2 BD and then you'll have enough for RR.

I used to do Little Finger (normal and direct) with only 2 sets of nuts. I would've traded one set for a set of tricams though. Specifically for building the belay stance above the crux bulge on LFD. What's left of the crack when it peters out up there doesn't really take 3 good wires, but it does take 1 good wire and two bomber tricams.

caveat: I am relying on my memories from ~10yrs ago...

The walking approach I will never ever forget either though!!! Only did that once...Pirate

I agree... I can't think of any reason to bring ballnutz.

Interesting that you built the 2nd belay above the crux bulge on LF direct. I might have to try that next time I go there. I think I built my first belay in that kind of "scoop," and I don't think I had enough rope to comfortably build the belay above the LF direct bulge. I built it about 10 feet below the direct bulge and plugged in a couple pieces to protect it. I bet building the belay above would really reduce rope drag on the traverse to the belay station on the right.


dta95b7r


Sep 3, 2009, 4:40 AM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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Gear to 1inch should be fine for basically any climb on rogers rock. Bummer you purchased a canoe I got one you coulda used (live 9 miles south of lake george) If you are in the area for more than a day you should also check out sleeping beauty/shelving rock. Both cliffs are on the opposite side of the lake with a short hike and great views of the lake. Shelving rock beta is on the adirondack rock website under new routes. Great climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range with full on panoramic views of the lake. have fun man


sbaclimber


Sep 3, 2009, 5:11 AM
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Re: [LostinMaine] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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LostinMaine wrote:
Interesting that you built the 2nd belay above the crux bulge on LF direct. I might have to try that next time I go there. I think I built my first belay in that kind of "scoop," and I don't think I had enough rope to comfortably build the belay above the LF direct bulge. I built it about 10 feet below the direct bulge and plugged in a couple pieces to protect it. I bet building the belay above would really reduce rope drag on the traverse to the belay station on the right.
Hmmn......sounds like you split up the pitches a bit differently than I did. It might have to do with that fact that I only had a 50m rope at the time...? The belay above the bulge was my 3rd.
I used to do the climb in 4 pitches:
1) up the line of bolts to the right of LF. Belay at DB anchor.
2) from anchor, up (maybe a little left?) into LF crack. Follow crack to roughly where the vertical crack through the bulge starts. Build belay.
3) climb vertical crack through bulge, and follow until it runs out (not far). Build belay at last possible spot in "crack", otherwise you will run out of rope before reaching the next belay station.
4) either traverse right to the top of LF, or my preferred variation to get the full height out of the slab, run it out more-or-less straight up (veering a little left) to the overlap/block/headwall thingy at the top of the slab. Slot a biggish hex or cam before swinging around left to exit above. Traverse through the woods to rap back onto the slab and down.

It was always sort of a combination of LF + LFD + whatever tickled my fancy as an exit strategyCool


bill413


Sep 3, 2009, 5:40 AM
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sbaclimber wrote:
Build belay at last possible spot in "crack", otherwise you will run out of rope before reaching the next belay station.

Now that sounds like experiential wisdom!


sbaclimber


Sep 3, 2009, 5:51 AM
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bill413 wrote:
sbaclimber wrote:
Build belay at last possible spot in "crack", otherwise you will run out of rope before reaching the next belay station.

Now that sounds like experiential wisdom!
Angelic nothing too bad, but I do seem to vaguely remember some downclimbing being involved. It's mostly 4th class from there on though...

One "experience" I do remember though, was rapping back down either Sceaming Meanie or Skid Row with said 50m single rope. Discovered that at least 2 of the rap stations are 27m+ apartCrazy

....and not finding the rap station at the top of LF in the dark once... I haven't rapped repeatedly off such small "trees" sinceLaugh


adatesman


Sep 8, 2009, 6:02 PM
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sbaclimber


Sep 9, 2009, 2:25 AM
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Re: [adatesman] Rack for Roger's Rock [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
What I did find however, were lots of bomber placements for the Ballnutz and Black Tricam (with "lots of" being in a relative sense). Very happy I brought those along, and would have not minded a second Black Tricam and a #1 Ballnut whatsoever.

Sweet, cheers for the beta!!
Last I was there was years before I had ever even held a lowe ball, let alone placed one. So, needless to say, I wasn't looking for those placements at the time.
My Black and Silver Tricams just arrived a couple days ago, haven't even placed them yet. Looking forward to it!Cool

Roger's can have a bit of a pucker factor, if your not used to slabs. I have only ever successfully lead Skid Row once, but have backed off before the first bolt at least twice. Something about 5.8 friction and a potential 30ft+ cheese-grater pendulum got the better of me most daysCrazy

If you guys want a bit more practice on something slightly easier and a little less exposed (feeling), then you should head to Chapel Pond Slab in Keene Valley. You can do 70-80% of it in sneakers and no hands. Makes the runouts a bit more managableTongue
(careful with weather though, had a bit of an epic there once....)


Edit: 'cause I wrote Screeming Meanie, but meant Skid Row


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Sep 9, 2009, 2:47 AM)


c4c


Sep 9, 2009, 3:48 AM
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You had some amazing Adirondack weather at least.
You should also check into lost in the sun on Mt webster in NH. I think that you would enjoy that by the sounds of it.


boymeetsrock


Sep 9, 2009, 9:37 AM
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Sweet! Glad you had a good time! Look forward to the TR.


LostinMaine


Sep 9, 2009, 11:13 AM
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Did you get any good heckling from boaters?

I climbed LF with a girl wearing a sports bra one time... best 2 hours of drunken boater yodeling I have ever heard.


adatesman


Sep 9, 2009, 11:51 AM
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Gmburns2000


Sep 9, 2009, 11:54 AM
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adatesman wrote:

What surprised me though is it even with the holiday weekend and good weather we pretty much had the place to ourselves. One other party showed up ~1pm on Friday, it looked like there was one party there on Sunday (judging by the presence of boats at the base) and we were alone on Monday. I had expected to wait in line...

I've always found the 'Daks funny like that. Never been busy when I've gone even on weekends when there would be a madhouse in the 'Gunks, NoCo, or Rumney.


boymeetsrock


Sep 9, 2009, 1:58 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
adatesman wrote:

What surprised me though is it even with the holiday weekend and good weather we pretty much had the place to ourselves. One other party showed up ~1pm on Friday, it looked like there was one party there on Sunday (judging by the presence of boats at the base) and we were alone on Monday. I had expected to wait in line...

I've always found the 'Daks funny like that. Never been busy when I've gone even on weekends when there would be a madhouse in the 'Gunks, NoCo, or Rumney.



SSSHHhhhh.....


sbaclimber


Sep 9, 2009, 11:49 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
adatesman wrote:

What surprised me though is it even with the holiday weekend and good weather we pretty much had the place to ourselves. One other party showed up ~1pm on Friday, it looked like there was one party there on Sunday (judging by the presence of boats at the base) and we were alone on Monday. I had expected to wait in line...

I've always found the 'Daks funny like that. Never been busy when I've gone even on weekends when there would be a madhouse in the 'Gunks, NoCo, or Rumney.



SSSHHhhhh.....
Yeah, no kidding, *sssshhhhh*....

Glad to hear things haven't changed that much in the past decade. About the only place I remember ever being "full" were the upper beer walls.


c4c


Sep 10, 2009, 3:06 AM
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sbaclimber wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
adatesman wrote:

What surprised me though is it even with the holiday weekend and good weather we pretty much had the place to ourselves. One other party showed up ~1pm on Friday, it looked like there was one party there on Sunday (judging by the presence of boats at the base) and we were alone on Monday. I had expected to wait in line...

I've always found the 'Daks funny like that. Never been busy when I've gone even on weekends when there would be a madhouse in the 'Gunks, NoCo, or Rumney.



SSSHHhhhh.....
Yeah, no kidding, *sssshhhhh*....

Glad to hear things haven't changed that much in the past decade. About the only place I remember ever being "full" were the upper beer walls.

yeah it was pretty busy on labor day. We had to share the whole crag with one other party. Smile


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