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donald949


Sep 4, 2009, 12:29 PM
Post #26 of 38 (744 views)
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Registered: May 24, 2007
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Re: [sungam] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
donald949 wrote:
sungam wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278

"A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches."

Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay

A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+Crazy
*edited for posting like a n00b*
A6+ if the leader falls the belayer dies, and there's a possibility of the belay just ripping so the belayer falls and rips the leader off?
*Edited for also posting like a noob*

You got jet lag or something? This is still bad...
What is bad?
Your A6+ concept


donald949


Sep 4, 2009, 12:51 PM
Post #27 of 38 (735 views)
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Re: [bigjonnyc] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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bigjonnyc wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Carnage wrote:
dynosore wrote:
qwert wrote:
marc801 wrote:
It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor.
Link to the supertopo thread?

You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks?
Could be bolts, could be pithons.
qwert

Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole Laugh

if a required piece of pro was actually a python i will agree at the rating of A6+

So its agreed, anchor built exclusively with live python is A6+.

Someone over on the taco suggested A7 as aid free soling, with hooks and such, but no rope. I would agree with that also. And why not, we already moved from class 6, to A and now C.
Plus B and V for bouldering. And all the Ice and mixed Ice and Rock grades that I can't keep up with.

Wouldn't aid free soloing only be A5, since a fall will only result in the death of the climber?
Hmm, thats another way to look at it. But on the other hand A5 is with a belayer, so I like A7 for solo aid with the place good for body weight only, not protection.
Speaking of which, its been a while and I'm not a aid climber But...
Isn't A5 deffined as gear placement only capable of holding body weight, but the belay anchor capable of holding the fall? The end result is a bad fall could possibly kill the climber not deffinately. A6 is deffined as gear and anchor good for body weight only? Now with the very distinct possibility of a fall killing the climber and belayer, rather than by the deffinition both are killed from a fall.


qwert


Sep 4, 2009, 1:03 PM
Post #28 of 38 (729 views)
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Re: [donald949] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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donald949 wrote:
sungam wrote:
donald949 wrote:
sungam wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278

"A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches."

Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay

A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+Crazy
*edited for posting like a n00b*
A6+ if the leader falls the belayer dies, and there's a possibility of the belay just ripping so the belayer falls and rips the leader off?
*Edited for also posting like a noob*

You got jet lag or something? This is still bad...
What is bad?
Your A6+ concept
actually i think the concept is quite good.
Climber climbs, on marginal stuff, but climbs. Then *pop* out of nothing, the belayer, including the belay falls,(maybe the python got bored?) thus pulling on the leader. His placement is now confronted with more than just bodywheight (2 bodies + a little shock load) and thinks "thats it, i go join the belay" and also jumps of the wall. This causes the climber, and the bleayer to both simultanuously fall onto the lower piece, that again, being only bodywheigt, doesnt like the fact that two people plus shockload hang on it ... and so on.

qwert


xyrandus


Sep 11, 2009, 9:37 PM
Post #29 of 38 (655 views)
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Registered: Aug 15, 2009
Posts: 1

Re: [shoo] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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shoo wrote:
A6+ means that there is a hairy dude named Butch waiting for you at the summit who will kill you if you don't fall.

A7 means he'll take out your belayer too.

Nah, A6 is a small child standing under you who will die if you fall on them.

A7 is a stack of small children.

More deaths means higher grade right?


Partner angry


Sep 12, 2009, 5:41 AM
Post #30 of 38 (610 views)
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
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Re: [xyrandus] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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What rating is it if terrorists make you aid a pitch and if you fall they bomb a hospital?

If the guy from 3rd rock from the sun makes you tie in around your ankle does this increase the grade?


budman


Sep 12, 2009, 6:50 AM
Post #31 of 38 (592 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170

Re: [donald949] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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As I remember it A3 up to 30 ft. falls, A4 up to 50 ft. falls, A5 80 ft. falls and better. As to anchors, good or bad don't effect the gear placements and fall potential of the leader, just whether both climbers fall or not. A3-A5 body weight placements, the danger factor of bad anchors doesn't factor into the the grade even though the commitment factor of todays new age aid climbs is becoming more and more. People just want validation of their climbs and adding R, X, XX (leader and belayer both die) isn't enough. It's all about the numbers today!!!!!!!!!!!!


budman


Sep 12, 2009, 6:53 AM
Post #32 of 38 (591 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [budman] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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Forgot to add that you don't get in the mags for A5 anymore.


onceahardman


Sep 12, 2009, 8:27 AM
Post #33 of 38 (568 views)
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [qwert] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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If you just make it into a pythonette, it's not harder than A6-.


sungam


Sep 12, 2009, 10:09 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Re: [budman] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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budman wrote:
As I remember it A3 up to 30 ft. falls, A4 up to 50 ft. falls, A5 80 ft. falls and better. As to anchors, good or bad don't effect the gear placements and fall potential of the leader, just whether both climbers fall or not. A3-A5 body weight placements, the danger factor of bad anchors doesn't factor into the the grade
Well, everything I heard differs to that...
http://en.wikipedia.org/...ems_for_aid_climbing


budman


Sep 12, 2009, 10:18 AM
Post #35 of 38 (534 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [sungam] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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Guess wiki wasn't around when I learned to climb.


sungam


Sep 12, 2009, 11:03 AM
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Re: [budman] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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I guess. I heard the grading from people originally, though. I just looked it up to double check.
Not that it's terribly important. Both show the general trend - high the number, higher the risk (and scariness)


Lazlo


Sep 12, 2009, 11:41 AM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079

Re: [coolcat83] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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areyoumydude


Sep 13, 2009, 12:40 AM
Post #38 of 38 (451 views)
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Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 1971

Re: [Lazlo] A6+ WTF [In reply to]
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Really?!? Wow. Cool I guess. Hmmm.

Edit to add "crazy man"


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Sep 13, 2009, 12:42 AM)

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