|
|
|
|
donald949
Sep 4, 2009, 7:29 PM
Post #26 of 38
(782 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
sungam wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: climbingtrash wrote: coolcat83 wrote: http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278 "A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches." Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+  *edited for posting like a n00b* A6+ if the leader falls the belayer dies, and there's a possibility of the belay just ripping so the belayer falls and rips the leader off? *Edited for also posting like a noob* You got jet lag or something? This is still bad... What is bad?
|
|
|
|
|
donald949
Sep 4, 2009, 7:51 PM
Post #27 of 38
(773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
|
bigjonnyc wrote: donald949 wrote: Carnage wrote: dynosore wrote: qwert wrote: marc801 wrote: It's a bullshit rating, and has been pretty much debunked on Supertopo. A close look at that "hook belay" shows two, fat, shiny bolts in the anchor. Link to the supertopo thread? You mean there are bolts in the photo on climbing mags site? I think i see what you mean. The two silver things one level under the hooks? Could be bolts, could be pithons. qwert Belaying off pithons (pythons?!). That could definitely be A6+, leader dies and the belayer gets constricted and swallowed whole  if a required piece of pro was actually a python i will agree at the rating of A6+ So its agreed, anchor built exclusively with live python is A6+. Someone over on the taco suggested A7 as aid free soling, with hooks and such, but no rope. I would agree with that also. And why not, we already moved from class 6, to A and now C. Plus B and V for bouldering. And all the Ice and mixed Ice and Rock grades that I can't keep up with. Wouldn't aid free soloing only be A5, since a fall will only result in the death of the climber?
Speaking of which, its been a while and I'm not a aid climber But...
Isn't A5 deffined as gear placement only capable of holding body weight, but the belay anchor capable of holding the fall? The end result is a bad fall could possibly kill the climber not deffinately. A6 is deffined as gear and anchor good for body weight only? Now with the very distinct possibility of a fall killing the climber and belayer, rather than by the deffinition both are killed from a fall.
|
|
|
|
|
qwert
Sep 4, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #28 of 38
(767 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
|
donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: donald949 wrote: sungam wrote: climbingtrash wrote: coolcat83 wrote: http://www.climbing.com/...n_the_fisher_towers/ http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=3278 "A Spanish pair has climbed a new route on the northwest face of the Titan in Utah’s Fisher Towers and proposed the unprecedented grade of A6+ for the crux lead. David Palmada and Esther Ollé climbed Look Out! Danger in 11 pitches, with one pitch given A6+, three A5 pitches, and three A4+ pitches." Now noone died to get it the A6 rating and what the hell is A6"+" plus what? and are the hook belays really necessary? seems like a stunt especially considering they drilled on some pitches, I wouldn't blame them if they placed a bolt at least for a belay A6+ means you fall, you die plus your partner dies too. Pffftt...A6+ *edited for posting like a n00b* A6+ if the leader falls the belayer dies, and there's a possibility of the belay just ripping so the belayer falls and rips the leader off? *Edited for also posting like a noob* You got jet lag or something? This is still bad... What is bad? Your A6+ concept
Climber climbs, on marginal stuff, but climbs. Then *pop* out of nothing, the belayer, including the belay falls,(maybe the python got bored?) thus pulling on the leader. His placement is now confronted with more than just bodywheight (2 bodies + a little shock load) and thinks "thats it, i go join the belay" and also jumps of the wall. This causes the climber, and the bleayer to both simultanuously fall onto the lower piece, that again, being only bodywheigt, doesnt like the fact that two people plus shockload hang on it ... and so on.
qwert
|
|
|
|
|
xyrandus
Sep 12, 2009, 4:37 AM
Post #29 of 38
(693 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 1
|
shoo wrote: A6+ means that there is a hairy dude named Butch waiting for you at the summit who will kill you if you don't fall. A7 means he'll take out your belayer too.
Nah, A6 is a small child standing under you who will die if you fall on them.
A7 is a stack of small children.
More deaths means higher grade right?
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Sep 12, 2009, 12:41 PM
Post #30 of 38
(648 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
What rating is it if terrorists make you aid a pitch and if you fall they bomb a hospital?
If the guy from 3rd rock from the sun makes you tie in around your ankle does this increase the grade?
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Sep 12, 2009, 1:50 PM
Post #31 of 38
(630 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
As I remember it A3 up to 30 ft. falls, A4 up to 50 ft. falls, A5 80 ft. falls and better. As to anchors, good or bad don't effect the gear placements and fall potential of the leader, just whether both climbers fall or not. A3-A5 body weight placements, the danger factor of bad anchors doesn't factor into the the grade even though the commitment factor of todays new age aid climbs is becoming more and more. People just want validation of their climbs and adding R, X, XX (leader and belayer both die) isn't enough. It's all about the numbers today!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Sep 12, 2009, 1:53 PM
Post #32 of 38
(629 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
Forgot to add that you don't get in the mags for A5 anymore.
|
|
|
|
|
onceahardman
Sep 12, 2009, 3:27 PM
Post #33 of 38
(606 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 3, 2007
Posts: 2493
|
If you just make it into a pythonette, it's not harder than A6-.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Sep 12, 2009, 5:09 PM
Post #34 of 38
(578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
budman wrote: As I remember it A3 up to 30 ft. falls, A4 up to 50 ft. falls, A5 80 ft. falls and better. As to anchors, good or bad don't effect the gear placements and fall potential of the leader, just whether both climbers fall or not. A3-A5 body weight placements, the danger factor of bad anchors doesn't factor into the the grade
http://en.wikipedia.org/...ems_for_aid_climbing
|
|
|
|
|
budman
Sep 12, 2009, 5:18 PM
Post #35 of 38
(572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170
|
Guess wiki wasn't around when I learned to climb.
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Sep 12, 2009, 6:03 PM
Post #36 of 38
(561 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
I guess. I heard the grading from people originally, though. I just looked it up to double check.
Not that it's terribly important. Both show the general trend - high the number, higher the risk (and scariness)
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Sep 12, 2009, 6:41 PM
Post #37 of 38
(551 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
|
|
|
|
|
areyoumydude
Sep 13, 2009, 7:40 AM
Post #38 of 38
(489 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 28, 2003
Posts: 1971
|
Really?!? Wow. Cool I guess. Hmmm.
Edit to add "crazy man"
(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Sep 13, 2009, 7:42 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
