Forums: Climbing Information: General:
How long is a piece of string?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


Trixie


Sep 15, 2009, 7:51 AM
Post #1 of 28 (2218 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2009
Posts: 80

How long is a piece of string?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This question is keeping me awake at night (just like the question of should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!)

OK, how far could a reasonably fit, experienced climber ascend a chimney by bracing his back and legs against a smoothish wall? And how far could said climber descend?

I understand that I'm going to get widely varying responses and possibly be snowed under with "It depends" answers so I'll set a few parameters.

1. The width of the chimney is to be considered the optimum width for the height of the climber.

2. The climber is a fit, experienced climber with chimney experience.

3. The sides of said chimney are smooth with no footholds, handholds or stretches that are slabby. The entire route is vertical with no overhangs either.

I guess anyone who wants to take a stab at answering this might want to give an answer that applies to how far up or down they personally would get and that's fine.

Will someone please put me out of my misery and have a go at helping me answer this question Crazy

From all these sleepless nights I've learned two basic facts - I can't function rationally without sleep and I really need to get out more! Unsure

Trixie Cool


wjca


Sep 15, 2009, 7:58 AM
Post #2 of 28 (2210 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 7539

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
This question is keeping me awake at night (just like the question of should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!)

OK, how far could a reasonably fit, experienced climber ascend a chimney by bracing his back and legs against a smoothish wall? And how far could said climber descend?

I understand that I'm going to get widely varying responses and possibly be snowed under with "It depends" answers so I'll set a few parameters.

1. The width of the chimney is to be considered the optimum width for the height of the climber.

2. The climber is a fit, experienced climber with chimney experience.

3. The sides of said chimney are smooth with no footholds, handholds or stretches that are slabby. The entire route is vertical with no overhangs either.

I guess anyone who wants to take a stab at answering this might want to give an answer that applies to how far up or down they personally would get and that's fine.

Will someone please put me out of my misery and have a go at helping me answer this question Crazy

From all these sleepless nights I've learned two basic facts - I can't function rationally without sleep and I really need to get out more! Unsure

Trixie Cool

I could make it 20+ feet. But if there were a picture of you naked covered with mud at the 40 foot mark, I'm pretty sure I'd get to it.


cintune


Sep 15, 2009, 8:09 AM
Post #3 of 28 (2182 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1293

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Uh, yeah, it depends. 20-40 feet with no rests sounds about right But it's a whole lot harder and scarier going down than up.


Carnage


Sep 15, 2009, 8:10 AM
Post #4 of 28 (2180 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923

Re: [wjca] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wjca wrote:
Trixie wrote:
This question is keeping me awake at night (just like the question of should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!)

OK, how far could a reasonably fit, experienced climber ascend a chimney by bracing his back and legs against a smoothish wall? And how far could said climber descend?

I understand that I'm going to get widely varying responses and possibly be snowed under with "It depends" answers so I'll set a few parameters.

1. The width of the chimney is to be considered the optimum width for the height of the climber.

2. The climber is a fit, experienced climber with chimney experience.

3. The sides of said chimney are smooth with no footholds, handholds or stretches that are slabby. The entire route is vertical with no overhangs either.

I guess anyone who wants to take a stab at answering this might want to give an answer that applies to how far up or down they personally would get and that's fine.

Will someone please put me out of my misery and have a go at helping me answer this question Crazy

From all these sleepless nights I've learned two basic facts - I can't function rationally without sleep and I really need to get out more! Unsure

Trixie Cool

I could make it 20+ feet. But if there were a picture of you naked covered with mud at the 40 foot mark, I'm pretty sure I'd get to it.

i would need to see a naked pic in this thread to know if its worth climbing to see another.


gmggg


Sep 15, 2009, 8:15 AM
Post #5 of 28 (2173 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
This question is keeping me awake at night (just like the question of should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!)

OK, how far could a reasonably fit, experienced climber ascend a chimney by bracing his back and legs against a smoothish wall? And how far could said climber descend?

I understand that I'm going to get widely varying responses and possibly be snowed under with "It depends" answers so I'll set a few parameters.

1. The width of the chimney is to be considered the optimum width for the height of the climber.

2. The climber is a fit, experienced climber with chimney experience.

3. The sides of said chimney are smooth with no footholds, handholds or stretches that are slabby. The entire route is vertical with no overhangs either.

I guess anyone who wants to take a stab at answering this might want to give an answer that applies to how far up or down they personally would get and that's fine.

Will someone please put me out of my misery and have a go at helping me answer this question Crazy

From all these sleepless nights I've learned two basic facts - I can't function rationally without sleep and I really need to get out more! Unsure

Trixie Cool

Looks like someone is planning on some buildering...

Wear approach shoes (for sticky rubber) and a leather jacket (for extra grip). You could make it 60-80 feet easily, if you keep your wits.


shimanilami


Sep 15, 2009, 9:01 AM
Post #6 of 28 (2133 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Indefinitely.


jt512


Sep 15, 2009, 9:08 AM
Post #7 of 28 (2127 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
This question is keeping me awake at night (just like the question of should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!)

OK, how far could a reasonably fit, experienced climber ascend a chimney by bracing his back and legs against a smoothish wall? And how far could said climber descend?

I understand that I'm going to get widely varying responses and possibly be snowed under with "It depends" answers so I'll set a few parameters.

1. The width of the chimney is to be considered the optimum width for the height of the climber.

2. The climber is a fit, experienced climber with chimney experience.

3. The sides of said chimney are smooth with no footholds, handholds or stretches that are slabby. The entire route is vertical with no overhangs either.

If the crack is the right width, then using the technique pictured below, a competent climber could climb hundreds of feet.



Jay
Attachments: chimney.jpg (8.13 KB)


shockabuku


Sep 15, 2009, 9:12 AM
Post #8 of 28 (2123 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Right up to the first mistake.


fist


Sep 15, 2009, 11:49 AM
Post #9 of 28 (2027 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 14, 2008
Posts: 47

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've done about 35 ft and I'm by no means a good climber. Getting over 50 would be pretty easy for a good climber.


eastvillage


Sep 15, 2009, 11:52 AM
Post #10 of 28 (2022 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 262

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A piece of string is the same length as the sound of one hand clapping.


acorneau


Sep 15, 2009, 11:54 AM
Post #11 of 28 (2017 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [eastvillage] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

eastvillage wrote:
A piece of string is the same length as the sound of one hand clapping.

Isn't string just a theory?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/String_theory


budman


Sep 15, 2009, 12:06 PM
Post #12 of 28 (2005 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 170

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Until you fall out of that OW.


kachoong


Sep 15, 2009, 12:30 PM
Post #13 of 28 (1978 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 15304

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!

It would depend on the angle the rain falls.... but in any case going faster is the best option.... you get more time at the destination to dry off.


byran


Sep 16, 2009, 8:08 PM
Post #14 of 28 (1825 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 266

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

How smooth is smooth? Is this like glass or does it have good friction just without any edges? Does the climber have kneepads? I'm going to say somewhere between 50 and 2,000 feet depending on the climber and slickness of the rock. Going down would be much easier, especially in a squeeze chimney. You can usually "melt" down a squeeze at a few inches per second, and maintain such a pace indefinitely. Your body might even continue descending after you've bled to death from 3rd degree abrasions.


kylekienitz


Sep 16, 2009, 8:22 PM
Post #15 of 28 (1817 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 256

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
should you walk or run to shelter in the rain - answer seems to be it depends on the type of rain!

Last time I got caught in the rain there was an OM waiting to be shotgunned at the car... I ran.

Soaking, I lacerated its poor blushed white skin with the car key and a triumphant tilt made my stomach flesh as saturated as its outward brother.


shockabuku


Sep 16, 2009, 8:29 PM
Post #16 of 28 (1811 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [budman] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
1. The width of the chimney is to be considered the optimum width for the height of the climber.

budman wrote:
Until you fall out of that OW.

The two bolded parts above do not equate.


Urban_Cowboy


Sep 16, 2009, 8:38 PM
Post #17 of 28 (1801 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 219

Re: [kylekienitz] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Mythbusters already solved the walk/run in rain question.Wink


Trixie


Sep 17, 2009, 1:51 AM
Post #18 of 28 (1749 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2009
Posts: 80

Re: [byran] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

byran wrote:
How smooth is smooth? Is this like glass or does it have good friction just without any edges? Does the climber have kneepads? I'm going to say somewhere between 50 and 2,000 feet depending on the climber and slickness of the rock. Going down would be much easier, especially in a squeeze chimney. You can usually "melt" down a squeeze at a few inches per second, and maintain such a pace indefinitely. Your body might even continue descending after you've bled to death from 3rd degree abrasions.

OK, climber doesn't have knee pads and the rock is on the slick side of average, if you know what I mean.

Both walls have an edge running vertically which has no holds - think of two columns. Sorry, I should have made this a bit clearer in my initial post.

Thanks everyone who has offered opinions on this. More are welcome and especially some ideas as to what you think the limiting factor would be (abrasion, muscle fatigue etc)

Thank all

Trixie Cool


bill413


Sep 17, 2009, 12:56 PM
Post #19 of 28 (1662 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
byran wrote:
How smooth is smooth? Is this like glass or does it have good friction just without any edges? Does the climber have kneepads? I'm going to say somewhere between 50 and 2,000 feet depending on the climber and slickness of the rock. Going down would be much easier, especially in a squeeze chimney. You can usually "melt" down a squeeze at a few inches per second, and maintain such a pace indefinitely. Your body might even continue descending after you've bled to death from 3rd degree abrasions.

OK, climber doesn't have knee pads and the rock is on the slick side of average, if you know what I mean.

Both walls have an edge running vertically which has no holds - think of two columns. Sorry, I should have made this a bit clearer in my initial post.

Thanks everyone who has offered opinions on this. More are welcome and especially some ideas as to what you think the limiting factor would be (abrasion, muscle fatigue etc)

Thank all

Trixie Cool

Lose of focus / attention would definitely stop you (from upward progression).


(This post was edited by bill413 on Sep 17, 2009, 12:57 PM)


dudemanbu


Sep 17, 2009, 1:32 PM
Post #20 of 28 (1629 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2005
Posts: 941

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The answer, in this case, is until he gets bored.


vegastradguy


Sep 17, 2009, 1:33 PM
Post #21 of 28 (1628 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [bill413] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JT is right for ascending.

descending theoretically would be the same, but my guess is that once you're more than 30' up, most people would balk at downclimbing further simply due to the head game involved.


Partner cracklover


Sep 17, 2009, 2:27 PM
Post #22 of 28 (1603 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Trixie wrote:
byran wrote:
How smooth is smooth? Is this like glass or does it have good friction just without any edges? Does the climber have kneepads? I'm going to say somewhere between 50 and 2,000 feet depending on the climber and slickness of the rock. Going down would be much easier, especially in a squeeze chimney. You can usually "melt" down a squeeze at a few inches per second, and maintain such a pace indefinitely. Your body might even continue descending after you've bled to death from 3rd degree abrasions.

OK, climber doesn't have knee pads and the rock is on the slick side of average, if you know what I mean.

Both walls have an edge running vertically which has no holds - think of two columns. Sorry, I should have made this a bit clearer in my initial post.

Thanks everyone who has offered opinions on this. More are welcome and especially some ideas as to what you think the limiting factor would be (abrasion, muscle fatigue etc)

Thank all

Trixie Cool

The only limiting factor to the competent climber would be fear. Unless you're talking about well over a hundred feet with no rests, in which case exhaustion could begin to be a serious factor.

If the rock is pretty slick rock, as you say it is, you'd have to press out hard to keep from slipping. This is what the limitation of over a hundred feet is based on. In the other extreme, on very gritty granite, the only limitation would be how long your clothing and skin would last.

For reference, I've done 120 feet of pretty much perfect width chimney climbing without a rest, but placing good gear so the fear never gets too great. By the end of that 120 feet, it starts to be fairly tiring.

Edited to add: I forgot, you have to chimney back down too, all without any rest? Hmm... that changes things. I'd say maybe 100 feet? But of course this is pure guesswork.

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Sep 17, 2009, 2:30 PM)


Partner cracklover


Sep 17, 2009, 2:34 PM
Post #23 of 28 (1596 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10161

Re: [Trixie] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh, and because you weren't around when this was first posted, and the subject of your thread (or should I say your string?) made me think of it...

Enjoy!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ew_flat;post=675465;

GO


petsfed


Sep 17, 2009, 2:36 PM
Post #24 of 28 (1593 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8599

Re: [vegastradguy] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

vegastradguy wrote:
JT is right for ascending.

descending theoretically would be the same, but my guess is that once you're more than 30' up, most people would balk at downclimbing further simply due to the head game involved.

I've done that sort of descent precisely once. NEVER AGAIN.

To the question at hand, assuming good fitness on the part of the climber, indefinitely. I wouldn't be willing to go more than about 50 feet without gear though.


Trixie


Sep 18, 2009, 2:49 PM
Post #25 of 28 (1533 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 7, 2009
Posts: 80

Re: [cracklover] How long is a piece of string? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Cracklover, thank you so much for that link. I howled, hooted, sobbed and hee'ed and hawed like a donkey! That thread is utterly priceless. It reminds me of some of the undergraduates and postgraduates I taught.

Any chance you can keep digging up funny links for me? I broke my wrist today so I'll be out of action for quite a while. I need something to keep me amused.

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook