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petsfed
Sep 17, 2009, 9:33 PM
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Over 4th of July weekend (so, over two months ago now), I was in Ten Sleep, getting my sport on. At one of the crags we went to, we encountered a pair of climbers on one of the more popular 10s. I had hoped to get on this route, as the book said it was pretty good, but these two were moving glacially. Whatever, its a big canyon, I'm not broken up over it, until I looked at their quickdraws. They had clipped 2 quickdraws to each bolt, and the carabiners were all opposite and opposed. I've stewed over this for a few months trying to figure it out. The trick was, the leader was hanging on every bolt, presumably exhausted from the process of doing every single clip twice. Thoughts?
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CSC0321
Sep 17, 2009, 9:52 PM
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The only thing I can think of other then the obvious "redundancy," Is that possibly they were training. I can see the benefit in clipping each bolt twice as it would have to improve your strength. If thats the case, which I admit is unlikely, then its unfortunate they chose to do it on a popular route. Good day
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Peasley1
Sep 17, 2009, 10:04 PM
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getting carried away with that redundancy thing, prob not a bad idea but hell if I'm going to do it.
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dingus
Sep 17, 2009, 10:07 PM
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I'm thinking of a hot latina in a yellow dress. I reckon that one's good as any, petsy. DMT
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bandycoot
Sep 17, 2009, 10:36 PM
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I think you're trying to understand something that spawns from their general lack of understanding. Seems like a conundrum to me...
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shockabuku
Sep 17, 2009, 10:39 PM
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Ten Sleep is an awesome place to climb. I've been there twice in the last month and my daughter three times. Haven't seen many other climbers there. You must attract the best of them.
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notapplicable
Sep 17, 2009, 10:41 PM
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They probably read about a backclipping accident and decided it wasn't worth the risk. Two draws is the definition of overkill if you ask me.
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wyoclimb
Sep 17, 2009, 11:13 PM
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10sleep is the shit maybe U should of shown them a locking biner
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petsfed
Sep 17, 2009, 11:54 PM
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dingus wrote: I'm thinking of a hot latina in a yellow dress. I reckon that one's good as any, petsy. DMT Indeed. Sorry, what were we talking about?
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Carnage
Sep 18, 2009, 12:13 AM
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shoulda called them out for using 1 rope. Told em the need 2 quickdraws for each rope (4 per bolt) or else they would die any second
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CrazyPetie
Sep 18, 2009, 1:53 AM
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We all need to start making fun of these type of people in person when we catch them in the act, or nothing is ever going to change. Or just solo the route next to theirs and blow their mind.
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angry
Sep 18, 2009, 12:10 PM
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I think I ran into these guys at Shelf Road this spring.
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nattfodd
Sep 18, 2009, 1:49 PM
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Well at least they are not using autolocking biners like was suggested by someone in here a while back.
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kriso9tails
Sep 19, 2009, 12:09 AM
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notapplicable wrote: They probably read about a backclipping accident and decided it wasn't worth the risk. Two draws is the definition of overkill if you ask me. So it probably wouldn't be necessary to add steel lockers into the mix as well?
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notapplicable
Sep 19, 2009, 12:46 AM
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kriso9tails wrote: notapplicable wrote: They probably read about a backclipping accident and decided it wasn't worth the risk. Two draws is the definition of overkill if you ask me. So it probably wouldn't be necessary to add steel lockers into the mix as well? Toss some steel lockers in there and that sport climber would be hauling more weight than I do when I'm pluggin gear.
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jeepnphreak
Sep 19, 2009, 1:01 AM
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Um never seen that before, huh odd I guess now on to give us this day our daily brests!
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rockandlice
Sep 21, 2009, 6:39 PM
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Funny. To me this would be possibly more dangerous than safety conscious. Couldn't having two biners on the bolt create a loading problem in the event of a heavy load/fall? Okay, back to thinking of more important things, like hot chicas in yellow dresses.
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2009, 6:49 PM
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petsfed wrote: Over 4th of July weekend (so, over two months ago now), I was in Ten Sleep, getting my sport on. At one of the crags we went to, we encountered a pair of climbers on one of the more popular 10s. I had hoped to get on this route, as the book said it was pretty good, but these two were moving glacially. Whatever, its a big canyon, I'm not broken up over it, until I looked at their quickdraws. They had clipped 2 quickdraws to each bolt, and the carabiners were all opposite and opposed. I've stewed over this for a few months trying to figure it out. The trick was, the leader was hanging on every bolt, presumably exhausted from the process of doing every single clip twice. Thoughts? Bizarre. That's all I have to say about that. Too bad you didn't get pictures. Not that I don't believe you, but it would've made a helluva funny photo. I was there that weekend too. Where was this fiasco taking place? GO
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petsfed
Sep 21, 2009, 7:18 PM
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Home Alone, as I recall. They were on Plea Bargain or Freaks and Phonies. We went across the canyon to a neat looking overhang shortly after.
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