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TarHeelEMT
Sep 18, 2009, 9:53 PM
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The thread on "best 4-season tent" got me to thinking.
I'm a southern trad climber who is trying, slowly but surely, to dabble in alpine climbing and build a skill base in anticipation of moving out to the pacific northwest in a few years when I finish school. I've got some modest experience in alpine through NOLS and another mountaineering course, and this summer led trips to Baker and Shuksan.
In Alaska with NOLS, we used Trangos, and the decision made sense in light of the weather we faced as well as the remoteness.
Climbing with a much more experienced partner on the Olympic Peninsula, we used his BD Megamid, which worked pretty well, but I still prefer would prefer a tent for the early part of my learning curve.
On Baker and Shuksan, my climbing partner offered up his Trango 2, so we took it up Baker and Shuksan, and the whole thing just felt like ridiculous overkill to me. Most of the tents we saw in other parties were 2-pole designs that looked to be 3-season tents, and I really regretted having both the weight and bulk associated with a tent as burly as the Trango.
In light of this, would I be well-served just to bring a 3-season tent and guy it out well for future summer climbs in the Cascades area?
What do most people use, and how?
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malcolm777b
Sep 18, 2009, 10:44 PM
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One of my climbing partners has a BD Firstlight, and I'm jealous every time he takes it out (we often go out in groups of 3 and I sleep in my MH Spire). It's under 3 pounds, under $300, and is a breeze to set up. It is not seam sealed, and not "waterproof", but it got blasted by rain on Mt. Baker and there was no wetness inside it the next morning. I can't sleep in it (I'm 6'4"), otherwise I would own one.
The megamid is awesome. Even with the optional floor/bug screen (mandatory for Cascades in some places due to bugs), it's light, can be split among the party, and very comfy. I wouldn't want to have it though on a volcano when the weather gets bad.
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 19, 2009, 4:12 AM
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I have the same problem, being 6'4" as well.
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hafilax
Sep 19, 2009, 4:51 AM
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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I bought a MSR Hubba Hubba for general PNW 3+ season usage. I have yet to try it out however. 
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i_h8_choss
Sep 19, 2009, 5:18 AM
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Im nearly 6'3'' and use the MSR hubba and I love it. Does well in rain/snow, its super light, & easy to set up. Mind you that I use it mostly in the Sierras and desert SW, not the Cascades.
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i_h8_choss
Sep 19, 2009, 5:21 AM
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Id also add that the MSR hubba dries quickly. 10-20 mins. in the sun, and its good to go.
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irregularpanda
Sep 19, 2009, 9:12 AM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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TarHeelEMT wrote: to dabble in alpine climbing and build a skill base.......................................... In light of this, would I be well-served just to bring a 3-season tent and guy it out well for future summer climbs in the Cascades area? What do most people use, and how?
Hmmmm. YOur questions are so varied, and I am so drunk typing right now.
Lets see. 3 season--yes it will suffice.
Are you an idiot...no, it won't. Oh wait, NOLS training. That's right....I remember now. Overly safe, wind protection walls, ridiculously over-analytical choices of tent sites.
OK. Basically, does this "3 person" tent have decent ratings for wind, heavy snow, a vestibule that's a decent size, and also plenty of guy lines? If it does have all of these things, then you'll be fine. I spent an entire winter on Rainier with just a bivy sack and a decent bag, but if you have a tent that fits this bill (the real key is the excessive guy lines and plenty of awesome gear reviews regarding heavy wind) then you'll be fine.
I've noticed that NOLS people trend on the side of caution, over analyzing every possible factor, while sometimes forgetting that their judgement about simple things (tent placement, orientation, and other simple variables) can prevent many problems.
Good luck.... I'm about to pass out. Climb for 2 days....too drunk to talk more.....have fun with the powdered milk and whisper-lites. I'm sure that'll get you women.
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ryanb
Sep 19, 2009, 3:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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Some popular cascade options:
Do it in a day.
Sleep out, tarp or bivy "just in case".
Sleep under a boulder you scoped last time.
Not get any sleep due to bugs.
Various BD single walls.
Lightest double wall you can find (advantage = mesh for better ventilation in high bug places) (MSR, Big Agnes, Montbell, Hillberg)
Go to index instead.
Good local store:
http://www.promountainsports.com/tents.shtml
Assuming you are poor like I was in school, just get the lightest two person freestanding, double wall tent you can afford and try to make sure you wear it out before you can afford another one.
I'm off to look for dry rock in leavenworth...
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 19, 2009, 9:34 PM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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Thanks for the tips. Definitely just trying to scrape by while still in school. I'm not as poor as I was as an undergrad, but I'm sure not much better.
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