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racking for aid
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rk2000


Sep 22, 2009, 5:08 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2008
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racking for aid
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Hi all
I am a little new to the whole aid game. me an a buddy have been screwing around on a few walls so far an we just got off the prow on the WC. We seem to be losing time in all sorts of ways, part of the problem is racking. we have different ideas on how the gear should be racked.
I say one beaner to on cam, he says 5 cams to one beaner. same with hooks an iron.
At each changeover it takes at least an hour to sort back through all the gear. any suggestions on how to get this done faster would really help or maybe a consensus vote on how many cams should be on a beaner might help me convince him to change....
Cheers


(This post was edited by rk2000 on Sep 22, 2009, 5:10 PM)


breaksteel


Sep 22, 2009, 7:39 PM
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Re: [rk2000] racking for aid [In reply to]
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To speed things up you should agree on a system you can both use. Changing back and forth will kill your time on switch overs.

As for cams per biner, I use 3 per. Any more than this is asking for a large chunk of your rack to suffer should you drop the lot of them.


Partner pbcowboy77


Sep 23, 2009, 11:37 AM
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Re: [rk2000] racking for aid [In reply to]
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I rack 1 carabiner to each cam, 3 pins to a carabiner and spread each set of nuts between 3 carabiners. Hooks I always bring 2 of each type on the topo and that's split with a set on 1 carabiner.

Just My opinion, but having a carabiner on each cam speeds up leading. Yes it's more weight but your talking about a pound or 2... But while your on lead you don't have to fumble with a bunch of cams while trying to place 1. Plus you don't have to take the time to find another carabiner, You just need to plunge that cam and clip you aiders to it and go. Doesn't seem like that much time is being saved but over the course of a pitch, you can save like 10 minutes and when your racing the sun saving 10 minutes on each pitch, if you get through 6 pitches, that's a hour...

Also it speeds up cleaning and re racking. Your not having to find the right carabiner to put each cam on ect ect...


shimanilami


Sep 23, 2009, 11:51 AM
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Re: [rk2000] racking for aid [In reply to]
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An hour for re-racking should tell you that you're doing something wrong. I'd consider 1 hour for the complete changeover - including hauling and getting high - to be excessive. Re-racking should take 10 minutes, tops.

One cam per 'biner. 2-3 pins per 'biner. Nuts spread across 3-4 biners. 2 sets of hooks on two separate biners. (I'd like to try fixing a link cam and cam hook on my aiders for going faster, but haven't got the gear yet.)

If you like to put your gear in a different "spot" on your gear sling (e.g. I put quickdraws on my harness, but my partner prefers them on the sling), you may be best off with block leading. Otherwise, you'll spend all your time reconfiguring your rack instead of climbing.


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