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Bag11s
Sep 28, 2009, 10:38 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2009
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Early November. 2 mid level sport climbers looking for maximum fun- opinions?
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 28, 2009, 10:49 PM
Post #2 of 12
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EPC for the multi pitch experience.
The Red is awsome, but, I love the long, easy sport climbs at EPC. There are also some really great hard multi pitch sport climbs (El Sendero Luminoso...I think it's a 10[???] pitch 12+).
Stay at Homero or Posada. Homero has a casita, ask to rent the room with the bathroom. The casita has a full kitchen so you can cook your meals.
Posada is higher end, lovely and a bit more expensive. Both places will arrange your airport transfers. PM me if you want more information about EPC.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Sep 28, 2009, 11:16 PM)
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ncrockclimber
Sep 29, 2009, 1:57 PM
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I love both places. We are going to the red later this month, and to EPC early next year.
IMHO, go to EPC. Tons of moderate single and multi pitch stuff, cheap accommodations and food, plus you get a taste of small town Mexico (VERY COOL!).
Gail mentioned Posada as being more expensive. That was not my experience, but I was last there in August / September 2008 so things might have changed. Personally, I would pass on the room, bring a tent and camp for $5 / day. They have public showers that are clean enough.
One more note on the ratings; they are soft. I was on-sighting hard 10's and 11's down there, and was only climbing easy 10's at home (NC) at the time.
Wherever you go, climb safe and have fun!
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sidepull
Sep 29, 2009, 2:20 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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It's always nice when life gives you a choice between two great options. If it were me, I'd head to Bishop or New Zealand or maybe even Hueco.
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Hexar34
Sep 29, 2009, 5:35 PM
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I have never been to RRG, so I'm biased, but I absolutely love EPC and would recommend it to anyone. The only tricky bit is getting there, and as others have said you can arrange a ride with Posada from the airport in Monterrey.
The weather is just about perfect in October/November. Still kinda warm, but dry, and cools off at night. It's also the "on season" in the winter months there. I recommend camping at Posada for $5 a night, you will still have access to bathrooms, showers, a pool, and a kitchen area with electricity, wireless, and fridges. There's also a restaurant and a gear shop, where you can buy the guidebook. People are also generally friendly at this camp.
It's near the small town of Hidalgo NL, which is a great place to get grilled chicken, or tacos, or seafood, and between camp and the crag are a couple of "depositos" where you can buy liters of Sol for 17 pesos ($1.50 ish), which are amazing after a day of climbing.
Anyway I highly recommend it, it's a really unique experience. I've been there probably 10 times in 4-5 years of climbing, just love it.
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potreroed
Sep 29, 2009, 6:05 PM
Post #7 of 12
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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Another vote for Potrero Chico.
Y'all can pm me for reliable pick-up at the airport in Monterrey. Also have private housing available.
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dudemanbu
Sep 29, 2009, 6:21 PM
Post #8 of 12
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If you're 5.12 or stronger, go to the red. If you're 5.11 or weaker, go to EPC.
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potreroed
Oct 3, 2009, 2:37 AM
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dudemanbu wrote: If you're 5.12 or stronger, go to the red. If you're 5.11 or weaker, go to EPC.
Potrero Chico has lots of 12's and 13's, many of them multi-pitch.
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Bag11s
Oct 6, 2009, 12:41 AM
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Thanks all for the feedback! Your clear consensus for this trip is Potrero. I’m taking your advice, which quite nicely reinforced my own interest. I’ve reserved our tickets for the first week of November, and now we’re planning the details. My partner has already climbed there a couple of years ago, and is psyched to get back, although the Red is pretty attractive. We’ll just have to save that for another trip. GBLauer- I read your TWZ thread- great! I have some good friends who have also climbed it that raved about it too. I’d like to focus on getting on as many long on-sight-able routes as we have time and energy for, to try and get a good sampling of the Potrero multipitch experience. Maybe TWZ, if things are going well earlier in the week. We’ll probably avoid projecting short and hard. Anyway, I got the guide book in the mail today, and am really looking forward to sampling this great destination climbing area.
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dagibbs
Oct 6, 2009, 3:16 PM
Post #11 of 12
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I'm thinking of a trip down to EPC first week of November myself. Might see you down there.
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Bag11s
Oct 8, 2009, 1:17 AM
Post #12 of 12
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Registered: May 8, 2009
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Great- EPC looks amazing, hope to see you there!
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