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andersjr
Aug 25, 2009, 1:51 PM
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I am talking to all of you in the 5'7 to 6'1 range. We are stuck. We not only get screwed on routes that we have to scruntch up on, but we also encounter problems on routes that are "reachy." When will we win? Average at everything, good at nothing.
Damn.
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pataphysicien
Aug 25, 2009, 7:27 PM
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I'm sad now
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andersjr
Aug 25, 2009, 7:38 PM
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pataphysicien wrote: I'm sad now
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shimanilami
Aug 25, 2009, 7:42 PM
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Depending on the route, I either wear stilts or stealth knee pads.
The real problem is with cracks. I wear welders gloves for wide ones, but I have no good option for thin ones except, "Crack, let me introduce you to my good friends hammer and lost arrow."
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punk_rocker333
Aug 25, 2009, 7:43 PM
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Start crack climbing. Height dependence is usually not an issue.
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dynosore
Aug 25, 2009, 7:46 PM
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andersjr wrote: I am talking to all of you in the 5'7 to 6'1 range. We are stuck. We not only get screwed on routes that we have to scruntch up on, but we also encounter problems on routes that are "reachy." When will we win? Average at everything, good at nothing. Damn.
Look at it this way, we always have an excuse.
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andersjr
Aug 25, 2009, 7:47 PM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: Start crack climbing. Height dependence is usually not an issue.
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pfwein
Aug 25, 2009, 7:59 PM
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dynosore wrote: andersjr wrote: I am talking to all of you in the 5'7 to 6'1 range. We are stuck. We not only get screwed on routes that we have to scruntch up on, but we also encounter problems on routes that are "reachy." When will we win? Average at everything, good at nothing. Damn. Look at it this way, we always have an excuse.
Damn route setters frequently set routes where it would be optimal to be shorter/taller than that, so we may both get shut down due to height limitations.
I am talking about on the same route (where you do a move either by a very long reach or by a super-skrunch sequence). I call it the "band pass filter" effect.
There's no way to "get over" this aside from insane surgery--you just need to accept it.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 25, 2009, 9:50 PM
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What are you talking about? This is the perfect size. If you are in this range and you also have core strength, flexible hips, strong fingers and powerful legs, then stop your whining!
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lithiummetalman
Aug 25, 2009, 10:15 PM
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Our disadvantage is our biggest advantage
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I_do
Aug 26, 2009, 4:45 AM
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andersjr wrote: I am talking to all of you in the 5'7 to 6'1 range. We are stuck. We not only get screwed on routes that we have to scruntch up on, but we also encounter problems on routes that are "reachy." When will we win? Average at everything, good at nothing. Damn.
Yes having sufficient reach combined with fine power to weight ratio must really suck, being in the same height range as many top climbers must really be a setback, 6'3 and 195 pounds of sympathy for you dude.
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roughster
Aug 26, 2009, 6:00 AM
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Lumping 5'7" with 6'1" is a joke but I regress. I used to climb with a well known climber when he was a wee pup. Dude (back then wee-dude) would float the reachy stuff with technique and power, and when all else failed: determination at no more than 5'2" or so.
Fuck the excuses, how about getting out there and enjoying the movement. Enjoy hanging out with your bros or babes on a sunny day. Focus on the vibe and the good times.
You don't need to walk up to every route and crank 1 time and turbodynoflagpimpcrossthroughfuckthathole monostylefreakythatshit in one shot. Enjoy the process. Each route presents a unique challenge to each of us. Why rush the best part of climbing? Figure it out how it works for you and send that shit and keep that shit-eating grin on your face for as long as you can.
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newguy5000
Aug 26, 2009, 6:02 AM
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Rocket Boots.
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andersjr
Aug 26, 2009, 11:13 AM
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newguy5000 wrote: Rocket Boots.
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Highcuu
Sep 10, 2009, 7:38 PM
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When I am a the gym, I usually stow a couple holds and a wrench in my pocket. So if I encounter a difficult section, I just "find" a hidden hold.
This seems to work quite well, and the other climbers admire my ability to find beta for a route that they had not considered. Many of them look too narrowly at the climb and only see the tiny crimps and slopers, but miss the ladder rung jug next to it.
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gmggg
Sep 10, 2009, 8:23 PM
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Highcuu wrote: When I am a the gym, I usually stow a couple holds and a wrench in my pocket. So if I encounter a difficult section, I just "find" a hidden hold. This seems to work quite well, and the other climbers admire my ability to find beta for a route that they had not considered. Many of them look too narrowly at the climb and only see the tiny crimps and slopers, but miss the ladder rung jug next to it.
Those are some big pockets...
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hafilax
Sep 10, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Highcuu wrote: When I am a the gym, I usually stow a couple holds and a wrench in my pocket. So if I encounter a difficult section, I just "find" a hidden hold. This seems to work quite well, and the other climbers admire my ability to find beta for a route that they had not considered. Many of them look too narrowly at the climb and only see the tiny crimps and slopers, but miss the ladder rung jug next to it.
The local guidebook has optimal heights next to the grades. I only climb routes in my height range.
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damage
Sep 10, 2009, 8:41 PM
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hafilax wrote: Highcuu wrote: When I am a the gym, I usually stow a couple holds and a wrench in my pocket. So if I encounter a difficult section, I just "find" a hidden hold. This seems to work quite well, and the other climbers admire my ability to find beta for a route that they had not considered. Many of them look too narrowly at the climb and only see the tiny crimps and slopers, but miss the ladder rung jug next to it. Don't they get suspicious when there's no tape next to the hold? The local guidebook has optimal heights next to the grades. I only climb routes in my height range.
i got strappy heels custom made for my shoes. 3" of stealth rubber.
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Highcuu
Sep 10, 2009, 8:55 PM
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hafilax wrote: Highcuu wrote: When I am a the gym, I usually stow a couple holds and a wrench in my pocket. So if I encounter a difficult section, I just "find" a hidden hold. This seems to work quite well, and the other climbers admire my ability to find beta for a route that they had not considered. Many of them look too narrowly at the climb and only see the tiny crimps and slopers, but miss the ladder rung jug next to it. Don't they get suspicious when there's no tape next to the hold? The local guidebook has optimal heights next to the grades. I only climb routes in my height range.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that. I also carry a gear sling with rolls of colored tape. I keep a Sharpie with me too. Sometimes the original markings fade, and V10 looks like V0, so I correct all the V0s to read V10 again.
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nthusiastj
Oct 2, 2009, 6:23 PM
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First step:
Stop convincing yourself that height is a limitation.
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Alpine07
Oct 2, 2009, 6:34 PM
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andersjr wrote: newguy5000 wrote: Rocket Boots. I do like where your head is at,
This reminds me that we haven't had a good newguy5000 thread/bashing in quite a while. Those were always a good time...
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bandycoot
Oct 2, 2009, 6:42 PM
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roughster wrote: turbodynoflagpimpcrossthroughfuckthathole monostylefreakythatshit in one shot. Enjoy the process.
Is that from the Kama Sutra?
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nextclimb
Oct 2, 2009, 7:01 PM
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Where is Randy Newman when we need him?
Average climbers got no reason to live...
Maybe get the route setters to put in variable distance holds that allow you to customise the climb. Kind of like adjusting the seat of a car. Of course then what would e have ti bitch about in the gym.
Love the 3" stealth booties and taking your own holds and tape.
Maybe for the outdoors just bring your rock hammer and chip a few buckets in the right places.
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curt
Oct 2, 2009, 7:23 PM
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andersjr wrote: punk_rocker333 wrote: Start crack climbing. Height dependence is usually not an issue. what if there is an earthquake and my hand is jammed in a crack? what if i have to cut my arm off? crack climbing seems too dangerous
Then the next leader can simply sling it-and clip into it as pro.
Curt
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