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Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw?
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sungam


Oct 13, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
kachoong wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
yodadave wrote:
angry wrote:
You need more than 3 quickdraws

laughing my ass off

I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.

If you go onto a paintball field and there are eight enemies, do you just take six painballs or enough to hit them all? Or god-forbid extra, in case you need more?

Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case.

Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing
Mr Barter?
This man needs to learn about pancakes.


iamgeniey


Oct 13, 2009, 11:03 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
xaniel2000 wrote:
how are you going to clean an 8 bolt route with 6 draws and 1 locking biner?

Hold on really tight to the anchor, untie, and learn to retie in with one hand and teeth.

....good skills, good skills.


johnwesely


Oct 13, 2009, 11:05 PM
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Re: [sungam] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Mr Barter?
This man needs to learn about pancakes.

I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become.


kachoong


Oct 13, 2009, 11:08 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
kachoong wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
yodadave wrote:
angry wrote:
You need more than 3 quickdraws

laughing my ass off

I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.

If you go onto a paintball field and there are eight enemies, do you just take six painballs or enough to hit them all? Or god-forbid extra, in case you need more?

Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case.

Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing

Well, I guess to get the point you need to be stabbed in teh face with it...


MS1


Oct 14, 2009, 12:14 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing

Dude, how many times do you have to have things explained to you??? If there aren't fixed biners at the top, the answer is clear:

johnwesely wrote:
Hold on really tight to the anchor, untie, and learn to retie in with one hand and teeth.

Although really you should practice at home before you do this outside, just to be safe. Also, if other climbers are too weak to do this and have left biners on the route, those are booty and you can steal them if you are strong enough to thread the rope in the proper manner.


(This post was edited by MS1 on Oct 14, 2009, 12:15 AM)


notapplicable


Oct 14, 2009, 2:11 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case.

Classic and it totally fits.

I'd bet money that if we took a poll we'd find the overwhelming majority of sport climbers play speedball; the same for tradies and woodsball.


notapplicable


Oct 14, 2009, 2:15 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
sungam wrote:
Mr Barter?
This man needs to learn about pancakes.

I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahah...!!!!!

I hope someones in need of a sig. line because thatn's a beaut!


(This post was edited by notapplicable on Oct 14, 2009, 5:43 AM)


p8ntballsk8r


Oct 14, 2009, 3:52 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly? I understand my multi-pitching idea was bad, now I've learned that I'm not quite experienced enough, plus I know I don't have enough gear yet.

The purpose of this topic was to see if it would be safe to simply use a biner over a quickdraw.

In another thread, I thought the butterfly would be a good stopper not, but learned that the mule knot would work better.

Finally I made another thread, basically thinking outloud on how I thought I could possibly learn to multipitch. It was proven to be bad, but the flames just keep coming...


agentmm


Oct 14, 2009, 4:40 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly? I understand my multi-pitching idea was bad, now I've learned that I'm not quite experienced enough, plus I know I don't have enough gear yet.

The purpose of this topic was to see if it would be safe to simply use a biner over a quickdraw.

In another thread, I thought the butterfly would be a good stopper not, but learned that the mule knot would work better.

Finally I made another thread, basically thinking outloud on how I thought I could possibly learn to multipitch. It was proven to be bad, but the flames just keep coming...

I just imagine 2 guys (you and your belay) high up on a 5.6 shooting eachother with paintballs while one asks the other one how they are going to get down to get more paint...
My point is this: you sound and look stupid


andrewG


Oct 14, 2009, 4:40 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly

Haven't read the other threads you are referring to but it seems to me that all the information you are wanting is available either through doing a search on this or other climbing websites, by going to a library and reading a book, or finding someone to climb with who has adequate gear and experience that you can learn from. You just have to sift through the shit to get the info you want if you start a thread that is redundant to site regulars.


subantz


Oct 14, 2009, 7:05 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice.


sungam


Oct 14, 2009, 8:01 AM
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Re: [subantz] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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subantz wrote:
I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice.
You think that shits funny?
You should see his nigerian scammer email convo's!!!!
He sent one to the rickroll hotline!
"It is saying congradulations you have been ringrolled"
"Ehh, yeah - that happens sometimes."

It solid win.


johnwesely


Oct 14, 2009, 12:17 PM
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Re: [sungam] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
subantz wrote:
I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice.
You think that shits funny?
You should see his nigerian scammer email convo's!!!!
He sent one to the rickroll hotline!
"It is saying congradulations you have been ringrolled"
"Ehh, yeah - that happens sometimes."

It solid win.

I really need to finish my writeup of that. He stopped responding to my email after I sent him this
http://picasaweb.google.com/...&feat=directlink
Sorry about not embedding the picture, but it is impossible to read once RC.com shrinks it down.


sungam


Oct 14, 2009, 12:26 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
sungam wrote:
subantz wrote:
I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice.
You think that shits funny?
You should see his nigerian scammer email convo's!!!!
He sent one to the rickroll hotline!
"It is saying congradulations you have been ringrolled"
"Ehh, yeah - that happens sometimes."

It solid win.

I really need to finish my writeup of that. He stopped responding to my email after I sent him this
http://picasaweb.google.com/...&feat=directlink
Sorry about not embedding the picture, but it is impossible to read once RC.com shrinks it down.
Dude, that shit is funny.
I was laughing my ass off when you told him you were deaf.


Shintao


Oct 14, 2009, 4:07 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Using a Locking Biner as a quickdraw? [In reply to]
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I think what we have seen here is many climbers fearing that they will hear about you on the evening news because you got stranded on a single pitch sport route. This may lead to a nice climbing area being closed, because the government feels the need to protect us.

So in a sense it is not because people are flaming you, just that they want to make sure they can still climb things.

Also, a good suggestion if you are going to start multipitching, maybe invest in a portaledge and spend the night on bolt 3.


bill413


Oct 14, 2009, 5:27 PM
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Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.


p8ntballsk8r


Oct 14, 2009, 6:01 PM
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bill413 wrote:
Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.

Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall?

Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training


silascl


Oct 14, 2009, 6:28 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
bill413 wrote:
Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.

Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall?

Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training

It sounds like he's fucking with you, no one would actually recommend downclimbing a route to clean it as a real solution.

Almost all the replies in this thread are fucking with you. Your best bet would be to stop replying, get a new username, and use a bit of sense before starting new threads.


hafilax


Oct 14, 2009, 6:37 PM
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silascl wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
bill413 wrote:
Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.

Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall?

Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training

It sounds like he's fucking with you, no one would actually recommend downclimbing a route to clean it as a real solution.

Almost all the replies in this thread are fucking with you. Your best bet would be to stop replying, get a new username, and use a bit of sense before starting new threads.
I've down-led easy trad climbs in order to not leave any gear. You face the same kinds of falls as leading only down-climbing can be more difficult depending on the route. It's definitely a useful skill.


silascl


Oct 14, 2009, 6:58 PM
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hafilax wrote:
silascl wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
bill413 wrote:
Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.

Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall?

Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training

It sounds like he's fucking with you, no one would actually recommend downclimbing a route to clean it as a real solution.

Almost all the replies in this thread are fucking with you. Your best bet would be to stop replying, get a new username, and use a bit of sense before starting new threads.
I've down-led easy trad climbs in order to not leave any gear. You face the same kinds of falls as leading only down-climbing can be more difficult depending on the route. It's definitely a useful skill.

Then again, this is the sport climbing forum.


subantz


Oct 14, 2009, 7:04 PM
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No stop taking our fun away. No more info from you. Paintball dont listen to him hes a NOOB.


notapplicable


Oct 14, 2009, 9:16 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly? I understand my multi-pitching idea was bad, now I've learned that I'm not quite experienced enough, plus I know I don't have enough gear yet.

The purpose of this topic was to see if it would be safe to simply use a biner over a quickdraw.

In another thread, I thought the butterfly would be a good stopper not, but learned that the mule knot would work better.

Finally I made another thread, basically thinking outloud on how I thought I could possibly learn to multipitch. It was proven to be bad, but the flames just keep coming...

In all sincerity man, the three threads you have started thus far point to a lack of respect for exactly how dangerous climbing is. Unlike a whole host of other sports that can be dabbled in with minimal or improvised gear, climbing will kill you in a second and be completely unapologetic about having done so.

If you can't take this sport seriously enough to make a minor investment in proper gear or do enough independent research (there is a ton of literature on climbing practices and safety) to understand that a single bolt is an unsafe belay anchor, I would ask that you seriously re-evaluate your motivations to climb. If those seem like too much effort, this sport is not for you.

That said, I have learned a hell of a lot from discussion on this site but almost all of it falls in the "advanced" or "nuance" categories. This is not the place for learning the basics but rather for honing your craft once your foundation is in place. My suggestion would be to read, read and then read some more. Once you've got a good understanding of the theory, either find an experienced climber or go out with a friend who has done just as much research as you have and work the system out for yourself. Nothing wrong with doing that but take it slow and take the initiative to educate and equip yourself properly.

Thats my two cents anyway.


dudemanbu


Oct 14, 2009, 9:25 PM
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Trad climber, speed paintballer.


kevthegerman


Oct 14, 2009, 10:09 PM
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ok, skip paintballing, skip skating, skip doing them both at the same time.. paint ball is cool but you enivitably "die" everytime you play.. climb more.. buy more draws and than instead of losing like 5 point of protection you have all of the points of protection..cuz in rock climbing you don't "die", you die..


avalon420


Oct 14, 2009, 10:26 PM
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notapplicable wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
sungam wrote:
Mr Barter?
This man needs to learn about pancakes.

I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahah...!!!!!

I hope someones in need of a sig. line because thatn's a beaut!
Totally got that covered. My thoughts exactly.

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