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Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points
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dbogardus


Oct 21, 2009, 9:00 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:
p8ntballsk8r wrote:
In an arguement, someone brought up triaxial loading or something to that affect in this situation, if this is a concern, could someone please explain why and what exactly it is?

I think you meant "triaxial trolling". It's when you troll 3 forums at once. I would think you'd be familiar with this?

haha.


tomtom


Oct 21, 2009, 9:44 PM
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Re: [adam14113] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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adam14113 wrote:
Here is my exhibit B: http://www.bebo.com/...lashBoxId=8160254774

Observe at 6:30 in the time line.

Pfft.

Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.


(This post was edited by tomtom on Oct 21, 2009, 9:44 PM)


cilohabmilc


Oct 21, 2009, 9:50 PM
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Re: [markc] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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markc wrote:
Skinner's unfortunate death has no place here.

However, if skinner would have clipped his rappel device to the hard points...

Anyway, I know a lot of old timers that back-up their belay loop with some medium sized accessory cord. This adds redundancy and would eliminate the argument about cross loading, but some argue that it clutters your harness.


adam14113


Oct 21, 2009, 10:24 PM
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Re: [tomtom] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.

Observe Murdoch rappelling in with a jumbo hunting knife ... a belay loop wouldn't stand a chance against that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYqmljrDb4


(This post was edited by adam14113 on Oct 21, 2009, 10:25 PM)


shimanilami


Oct 21, 2009, 10:36 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
I feel in some ways that our work is not as safe as it could be. I need a little advice on how to bring this up to the boss. For one, our ropes do not last very long because my coworkers to not enforce rules like not steping on the rope. When we're outside with mainly gravel! Anyways, the ropes get nasty looking... I guess just fuzzy which I've just been told today is wear but not damage. As far as harnesses go. When do these need to be replaced? They also looked fuzzy from being worn, not exactly sure how bad that actually is.

Nicely done. You're starting to get it, I think.


crazy_fingers84


Oct 21, 2009, 11:17 PM
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Re: [cilohabmilc] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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cilohabmilc wrote:
markc wrote:
Skinner's unfortunate death has no place here.

However, if skinner would have clipped his rappel device to the hard points...

Anyway, I know a lot of old timers that back-up their belay loop with some medium sized accessory cord. This adds redundancy and would eliminate the argument about cross loading, but some argue that it clutters your harness.

do you even know what happened to todd skinner? it had nothing to do with his rappel device being clipped to his belay loop.


shimanilami


Oct 21, 2009, 11:39 PM
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Re: [tomtom] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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adam14113 wrote:
Here is my exhibit B: http://www.bebo.com/...lashBoxId=8160254774

Observe at 6:30 in the time line.

tomtom wrote:
Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.

adam14113 wrote:
Observe Murdoch rappelling in with a jumbo hunting knife ... a belay loop wouldn't stand a chance against that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYqmljrDb4

Extremely strong entries from both of you. I believe that you have effectively put this argument to rest.

This is the stuff that makes RC.com worth coming back to over and over again.


chris


Oct 22, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
taydude wrote:
Common sense doesn't seem so common. If you have an argument about a product, consult it's user manual. I have never seen a harness manufacturer say anything other than do NOT clip into the tie in points. Maybe you should use the product as it was designed and tested.

Now I will make sure I will. I feel in some ways that our work is not as safe as it could be. I need a little advice on how to bring this up to the boss. For one, our ropes do not last very long because my coworkers to not enforce rules like not steping on the rope. When we're outside with mainly gravel! Anyways, the ropes get nasty looking... I guess just fuzzy which I've just been told today is wear but not damage. As far as harnesses go. When do these need to be replaced? They also looked fuzzy from being worn, not exactly sure how bad that actually is.

P8nt, I recommend that you look into the Climbing Wall Instructor Certification being offered by the American Mountain Guide Association. Check it out at www.amga.com.


cilohabmilc


Oct 22, 2009, 5:02 AM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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crazy_fingers84 wrote:
cilohabmilc wrote:
markc wrote:
Skinner's unfortunate death has no place here.

However, if skinner would have clipped his rappel device to the hard points...

Anyway, I know a lot of old timers that back-up their belay loop with some medium sized accessory cord. This adds redundancy and would eliminate the argument about cross loading, but some argue that it clutters your harness.

do you even know what happened to todd skinner? it had nothing to do with his rappel device being clipped to his belay loop.

This is the National Park Services' morning report from October 30, 2006.

"On the afternoon of October 23rd, dispatch received a telephone call reporting a fatal climbing fall. Jim Hewitt reported that he and his partner, well-known climber Todd Skinner, had been working on a first free ascent of the "Jesus Built My Hotrod" route on the overhanging west face of the Leaning Tower. Skinner's fall occurred when he was rappelling. Hewitt told investigators that he had been above Skinner when he fell. As he was rappelling on the low-stretch ropes that they had fixed on the route, Hewitt came to Skinner's Grigri descent device on the rope at the point where he'd fallen. The Grigri had a still-locked carabiner attached which had been connected to Skinner's harness. When Skinner's body was recovered, the belay loop on his harness was missing. The next day, rangers recovered a broken harness belay loop in vegetation at the base of the wall. It was very worn at the spot where the break had occurred. Hewitt later told investigators that Skinner was aware that the belay loop on his harness was in a weakened condition prior to the climb, and that they had talked about its poor condition three days earlier..."

I don't mean to sound rude, but I think it's pretty clear what happened.

Your thoughts?


crazy_fingers84


Oct 22, 2009, 5:43 AM
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Re: [cilohabmilc] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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cilohabmilc wrote:
crazy_fingers84 wrote:
cilohabmilc wrote:
markc wrote:
Skinner's unfortunate death has no place here.

However, if skinner would have clipped his rappel device to the hard points...

Anyway, I know a lot of old timers that back-up their belay loop with some medium sized accessory cord. This adds redundancy and would eliminate the argument about cross loading, but some argue that it clutters your harness.

do you even know what happened to todd skinner? it had nothing to do with his rappel device being clipped to his belay loop.

This is the National Park Services' morning report from October 30, 2006.

"On the afternoon of October 23rd, dispatch received a telephone call reporting a fatal climbing fall. Jim Hewitt reported that he and his partner, well-known climber Todd Skinner, had been working on a first free ascent of the "Jesus Built My Hotrod" route on the overhanging west face of the Leaning Tower. Skinner's fall occurred when he was rappelling. Hewitt told investigators that he had been above Skinner when he fell. As he was rappelling on the low-stretch ropes that they had fixed on the route, Hewitt came to Skinner's Grigri descent device on the rope at the point where he'd fallen. The Grigri had a still-locked carabiner attached which had been connected to Skinner's harness. When Skinner's body was recovered, the belay loop on his harness was missing. The next day, rangers recovered a broken harness belay loop in vegetation at the base of the wall. It was very worn at the spot where the break had occurred. Hewitt later told investigators that Skinner was aware that the belay loop on his harness was in a weakened condition prior to the climb, and that they had talked about its poor condition three days earlier..."

I don't mean to sound rude, but I think it's pretty clear what happened.

Your thoughts?

i have been under the impression that skinner's belay loop failure was due to a daisychain being girth hitched to the belay loop. the rappel device was attached to the daisy when the belay loop failed.


fxgranite


Oct 22, 2009, 6:03 AM
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Re: [shimanilami] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
Here is my exhibit B: http://www.bebo.com/...lashBoxId=8160254774

Observe at 6:30 in the time line.

tomtom wrote:
Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.

adam14113 wrote:
Observe Murdoch rappelling in with a jumbo hunting knife ... a belay loop wouldn't stand a chance against that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYqmljrDb4

Extremely strong entries from both of you. I believe that you have effectively put this argument to rest.

This is the stuff that makes RC.com worth coming back to over and over again.

RC.com at it's finest. Impressive work guys.


Myxomatosis


Oct 22, 2009, 7:06 AM
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Re: [fxgranite] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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fxgranite wrote:
shimanilami wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
Here is my exhibit B: http://www.bebo.com/...lashBoxId=8160254774

Observe at 6:30 in the time line.

tomtom wrote:
Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.

adam14113 wrote:
Observe Murdoch rappelling in with a jumbo hunting knife ... a belay loop wouldn't stand a chance against that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYqmljrDb4

Extremely strong entries from both of you. I believe that you have effectively put this argument to rest.

This is the stuff that makes RC.com worth coming back to over and over again.

RC.com at it's finest. Impressive work guys.

That McG video is pure informative. If I ever attacked by a knife welding crazy rappeller.. I now know how to fix him good!!!

Oh the chalk bag to the face.... awesome!


mojomonkey


Oct 22, 2009, 12:53 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
Here is my exhibit B: http://www.bebo.com/...lashBoxId=8160254774

Observe at 6:30 in the time line.

tomtom wrote:
Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.

adam14113 wrote:
Observe Murdoch rappelling in with a jumbo hunting knife ... a belay loop wouldn't stand a chance against that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYqmljrDb4

Extremely strong entries from both of you. I believe that you have effectively put this argument to rest.

This is the stuff that makes RC.com worth coming back to over and over again.

So anyone know the actual area/route they were on?


cilohabmilc


Oct 22, 2009, 7:40 PM
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Re: [crazy_fingers84] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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crazy_fingers84 wrote:
i have been under the impression that skinner's belay loop failure was due to a daisychain being girth hitched to the belay loop. the rappel device was attached to the daisy when the belay loop failed.

I too have heard talk about a daisy chain. The only reason i brought up the issue is that this thread is talking about clipping into the hard points instead of the belay loop. Regardless if skinner clipped to his belay loop or to a daisy attached to the belay loop, if he had clipped to his hard points the worn belay loop wouldn't have been an issue. But i think that you and i would both agree that he should have just gotten a new harness.

I appreciate a good dialogue where no one is spewing troll, n00b, or something involving the f-bomb.
cheers,
Mark


Partner drector


Oct 22, 2009, 7:55 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
This seems dumb to me since if the belay loop snaps... your falling.

[sarcasm]Yep. That happens all of the time. Belay loops are in no way capable of holding a top rope fall in a gym.[/sarcasm]

In reply to:
Let's not forget Todd Skinner ...

The OP is not asking about clipping into a belay loop that has been overused and is likely cut 9/10 of the way through already. i think he is asking about clipping into a belay loop that is fully functional so this does not apply.

My opinion; don't use a carabiner. Tie in the kids so that they learn the "proper" way to do things. Otherwise they need to unlearn this thing you taught them and learn something different when it's their turn to climb El Cap.

Dave


p8ntballsk8r


Oct 23, 2009, 8:18 PM
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Re: [drector] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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drector wrote:
The OP is not asking about clipping into a belay loop that has been overused and is likely cut 9/10 of the way through already. i think he is asking about clipping into a belay loop that is fully functional so this does not apply.

My opinion; don't use a carabiner. Tie in the kids so that they learn the "proper" way to do things. Otherwise they need to unlearn this thing you taught them and learn something different when it's their turn to climb El Cap.

Dave

I'd agree, but we're in a situation where there is 40 minutes to get 12 kids up the wall, time is a huge issue because there are groups back to back all day long and they have other places to be right afterwards


rtwilli4


Oct 26, 2009, 3:32 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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Jeez I can't believe I'm replying to this. Then again, I'm stuck in KL waiting for my passport so I have nothing else to do.

I was taught, and teach, to always put soft goods (rope, PAS, daisy chain, sling, etc.) on my tie in points and hard goods (carabiners) on my belay loop.

They call them "tie in points" and "belay loop" for a reason ya know. If you don't trust the kids belay loop to hold a top rope fall, why would you trust your own belay loop to hold his fall?

But you are probably one of those people who belays with the biner clipped to the tie in points..


crazy_fingers84


Oct 26, 2009, 4:40 AM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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this whole idea is really not an issue at most gyms. i have rarely been to a climbing facility that rented harnesses with a belay "loop" that is separate from the tie in point. i just figured that it is all the same whether you use a carabiner or a knot.


jeepnphreak


Oct 26, 2009, 5:04 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
adam14113 wrote:
Here is my exhibit B: http://www.bebo.com/...lashBoxId=8160254774

Observe at 6:30 in the time line.

tomtom wrote:
Here's what happens when you clip directly into the harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRCvGpUnBbY

Observe at 3:57 in the time line.

adam14113 wrote:
Observe Murdoch rappelling in with a jumbo hunting knife ... a belay loop wouldn't stand a chance against that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzYqmljrDb4

Extremely strong entries from both of you. I believe that you have effectively put this argument to rest.

This is the stuff that makes RC.com worth coming back to over and over again.

Chalk bag to the face, rope cut technique. brilliant


USnavy


Nov 12, 2009, 1:17 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
I've had several disagreements with co-workers on this topic and I wanted to see what kind of response I get here.

For work, we top rope kids all weighting under about 150 pounds. Since this is going on all day, and on a very short time schedule, we generally tie a figure 8 on a bite, and clip a carabiner to it. I know tying in is safer and has one less piece of equipment that can fail, but the convienience and using strong biners definately makes up for this.

Here is where we disagree. I was trained to clip the biner into both hardpoints. It only makes sense to me because if one were to fail, there would be another. Simple redundancy I feel very important to climbing.

Some of my co-workers, have been taught to clip the biner into the belay loop only. They say with a biner you clip to the belay loop, when tying in, you do so to the hardpoints. This seems dumb to me since if the belay loop snaps... your falling.

Is there any sense to this? or why do they decide this? I do take precaution when clipping into the hardpoints to put the gate outwards, so that it won't rub against the hardpoints on the harness and cause any undue wear. Wear and tear on the harness is the only possible reason I can see why this would make sense.

In an arguement, someone brought up triaxial loading or something to that affect in this situation, if this is a concern, could someone please explain why and what exactly it is?

Well lets see what UIAA has to say about this issue.

http://theuiaa.org/...ope_by_karabiner.pdf

UIAA is the ultimate authority for anything climbing related. UIAA is to climbing as NHTSA and USDOT is to automobiles.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 12, 2009, 1:20 AM)


airscape


Nov 12, 2009, 1:12 PM
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That double biner method is exactly like that in the petzl harness booklet.


donald949


Nov 18, 2009, 7:22 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
taydude wrote:
Common sense doesn't seem so common. If you have an argument about a product, consult it's user manual. I have never seen a harness manufacturer say anything other than do NOT clip into the tie in points. Maybe you should use the product as it was designed and tested.

Now I will make sure I will. I feel in some ways that our work is not as safe as it could be. I need a little advice on how to bring this up to the boss. For one, our ropes do not last very long because my coworkers to not enforce rules like not steping on the rope. When we're outside with mainly gravel! Anyways, the ropes get nasty looking... I guess just fuzzy which I've just been told today is wear but not damage. As far as harnesses go. When do these need to be replaced? They also looked fuzzy from being worn, not exactly sure how bad that actually is.
The fuzzier the rope, the weaker the rope. The fuzzyness is from broken sheath fillaments. Here's a well written link from the Itlian Climbing Club, that someone once posted, and I reposted several times:
http://www.caimateriali.org/index.php?id=41
The pictures show the broken fillaments enlarged. Be good to your ropes, they'll last longer and be stronger.


lostlazy


Nov 18, 2009, 7:41 PM
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Re: [donald949] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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Great reference donald...


agdavis


Nov 18, 2009, 7:46 PM
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Re: [Shintao] Clipping in to belay loop vs Hard points [In reply to]
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Shintao wrote:
This place you work at sounds strange. The gym I climb just mandated a double fisherman as a backup to the tie in for a figure 8. If you are so worried about speed in tying people in then...
I go for safe over speed any day.

That is totally overkill, provided that the tail is of sufficient length.


majid_sabet


Nov 18, 2009, 8:45 PM
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Have an accident report right in front of me from a pro climber who died while top roping with a carabiner attached to his TR rope instead of tying directly in to harness.

At a million + dollar worth of lawsuit, the release of liability form anit going to save you in event of doo doo plus, history shows that climbers make great deal of mistake when they switch their brain in to autopilot mode where things are just clipped and done.

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