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adatesman
Oct 25, 2009, 3:19 AM
Post #2 of 11
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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subantz
Oct 25, 2009, 5:12 AM
Post #3 of 11
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Yea send that thing to Adatesman So he can pull test that rig. He at least will review the damn thing the right way cause dats what he dos good. So Either review it tell us why its a piece. Good propertys and bad and make it good. Or send it to the MOD. for a proper review.
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Urban_Cowboy
Oct 25, 2009, 6:05 AM
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I love it when everyone compares every belay device to the Gri Gri, especially when there are two polarized camps of love/hate for the Gri Gri.
I wonder how long it will take for someone to shred their rope sheath on "smart" the way folks used to complain about the old Reverso.
If I was going to spend $30 on another belay device it would either be an ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso3. Nothing against Mammut, I like most of their stuff, but I won't be getting a Smart...ever. Might as well get an ATC-Sport, it'd be just as useful.
Nope think I'll stick with my Gri Gris and ATCs. I'm with the previous posters, that's not really a review...and to have just a link to a supposed review is pretty much crap also.
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newriverE
Oct 25, 2009, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2009
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I've used the Smart a bunch and I really like it. Truth be told, I originally bought it because my buddy absconded with my Gri Gri and I couldn't afford to buy another one at that point. Is it my favorite belay device? No. Is it an excellent device with a few specific applications that other devices do less well? Yes.
Namely, if you are climbing a lot with a very skinny single cord (Such as a mammut 8.9 or a Sterling 9.2) you can rest assured that the Smart will lock up in the case of a fall. I know lots of people who say that they're gri gri's and cinch's catch their 9.2's all day long, but this device is actually rated to do so by the manufacturer. That matters to some people. Also, for people who are doing multi-pitch climbs where weight does matter (think prince of darkness at red rocks where you're carrying predominantly a sport rack up vertical terrain) the Smart offers a much less cumbersome package to haul up with you.
Obviously, like other single rope belay devices it does have limitations for rappeling applications, but because it's so light weight, non bulky, and inexpensive you can justify having it with you.
Also, claims of jerky uneven lowering, or difficulty with feeding slack are products of user error/ learning curve. It shouldn't take more than one climbing session to become adept at using the device. (It took me longer than that to become consistent at lowering smoothly with my gri gri). All in all, it's a great device for what it does. I still own and use a Reverso 3 and have since purchased anothe Gri Gri, but am happy to own the Smart as well.
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caughtinside
Oct 25, 2009, 9:36 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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subantz wrote: Yea send that thing to Adatesman So he can pull test that rig. He at least will review the damn thing the right way cause dats what he dos good. So Either review it tell us why its a piece. Good propertys and bad and make it good. Or send it to the MOD. for a proper review.
I read this three times and it gets funnier each time.
Yes, let's send this belay device to adatesman so he can pull test it to failure.
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climbinginchico
Oct 26, 2009, 2:56 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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Not to mention the terrible copy editing, especially bad for it being on a newspaper's website.
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johnwesely
Oct 26, 2009, 3:11 PM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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Here is my review on Natefosho.
When I first saw Natefosho on rockclimbing.com, I said no way is he going on my rack. He does lock off really well for falls, but when you try to lower him, he is kind of a jerk. He is not as good as the gri gri.
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ghisino
Oct 29, 2009, 9:21 AM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Sep 12, 2005
Posts: 249
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i've used a smart since june (5 months).
bought it because some gyms here (france) don't like locking devices such as grigri and cinch, while this has a "conventional" appearance.
Second reason, its operation seemed more "beginner friendly" than others, so i could easily get people belay me with this instead of terryfying me using a tube AND chatting with the neighbouring belayer all time, without looking up...
so, pros :
-the lightest you can get on a locking device.
-once you've had two or three learning sessions, it handles really skinny ropes (9.2 or 9.1) better than anything else and expecially on lower-offs. Beware i said really skinny.
-instructions work fine (eg on the contrary no one used the first method proposed by petzl for the grigri)
cons :
-with chunky ropes, feeding slack is not as easy as with a cinch (but easier than grigri!!!)
-lowering off properly requires practice.
-technicians say that its behaviour will vary according to whick HMS biner you use, as with similar devices (wild country SRC). I am using a simond hms biner whick looks quite on the fat end, like the classic yellow petzl ones.
A few notes on lowering off :
-using cheap leather gloves simplifies the task a lot.
-also, it is easier if you step back a few steps so that the rope is not going up really vertical.
-the skinnier and newer the rope, the easier it is to lower smoothly : in this case focus on "turning" the device rather than on "pulling up" the red tab, and do not hold firmly the rope, leave your brake hand semi-open. Once you master the technique, it is better than anything else, hands down. Still not easy on first try.
-with fat/really used ropes, on the contrary, it's messy anyway. you really have to pull up the red tab, almost fully unlocking the device, and provide good brake-hand action. This demands some effort.
even if i like the cinch more, i end up using this almost all time for two reasons :
-i use skinny enough ropes anyway (usually 9.4)
-lightweight is a real plus on long approaches and for flights.
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subantz
Aug 28, 2010, 1:05 AM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Dec 7, 2007
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After being out for a while now I figured we could get some more input. Johny 5
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cruxstacean
Aug 28, 2010, 10:33 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Jul 5, 2010
Posts: 174
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using a tube AND chatting with the neighbouring belayer
Thats not unsafe for toprope, but maybe you only lead in the gym...
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