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unrest
Oct 21, 2009, 9:34 PM
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I want something that drives like the La Sportiva Miura VS but has width like the Acopa shoe that John Bachar is seen in on some of the Acopa ads.
I currently have the La Sportiva Mythos and it's too narrow. I want great all around performance (trad, sport, boulder, gym) but a bit wider.
If you have suggestions for an awesome shoe that you like then let's have it.
Thanks!
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shrug7
Oct 21, 2009, 9:47 PM
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I have size 12.5 EEE and the Miuras in a 46 fit fine.
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unrest
Oct 21, 2009, 9:48 PM
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Oh! I'm liking that. Really liking that.
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_SLY_
Oct 21, 2009, 9:54 PM
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I just picked up some Predators from evolv's closeout a couple weeks ago (they should still be up on evolv's site).
I love em. I usually need a damn big toe box because my toes are wide and long, and these are working out just fine. Make sure size UP about a half size, if you're used to sportivas.
$60...can't beat that price, either.
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shimanilami
Oct 21, 2009, 11:52 PM
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You can't have one shoe that does it all, no matter how wide or narrow your foot is. The requirements for bouldering are just too different from those for trad.
I have a wide foot. My favorite sport/bouldering shoe is the Galileo. My favorite trad shoe was the Marathon, but I'm looking for something new. The Acopa Aztecs felt nice in the store, but I've yet to purchase them and put them to the test.
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unrest
Oct 21, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Yeah of all of them bouldering is one I could really care less about. Bouldering is about as exciting to me as climbing a trash pile... oh wait...
A friend of mine had the Acopa's and climbed mostly on smooth basalt. He blew the rands out in less than 6 months. So I'm not real hot on the Acopa. He said it climbed like nothing else he'd ever worn but it was too soft for his budget.
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shrug7
Oct 22, 2009, 12:31 PM
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It did take a month or so to break them in, but I think that goes with any shoe.
I've had them for 3 years and they are going on their third resole shortly.
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CrazyPetie
Oct 22, 2009, 7:22 PM
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The evolv optimus slippers are pretty wide and perform great. I like them alot better then the optimus primes.
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acorneau
Oct 22, 2009, 7:35 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote: The evolv optimus slippers are pretty wide and perform great. I like them alot better then the optimus primes.
On clearance for $60! (most sizes in stock as of this posting)
http://evolvesports.com/optimus.htm
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newriverE
Oct 23, 2009, 7:00 PM
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check out the Acopa merlins or Merlin velcro if you don't want the lace ups. The rubber is a little softer,but they're a high quality shoe so the upper holds up and takes a resole really well. The cool thing about those two shoes is that they cut away the "back step" to give you a powerful big toe without having to make the shoe "down turned". What does that mean? You can size them snug, and climb all day in them without the arch fatigue you would get in a down turned shoe. My buddy, who also works at a climbing shop and can get whatever shoes he wants, swears by the Merlin and I've watched him keep his shoes on for two hours bouldering and walking around, (while i took my shoes off after every two climbs...) Nobody does a wide shoe as well as Acopa, that's the brutal truth.
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unrest
Oct 23, 2009, 7:32 PM
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That shoe looks really cool. Do you know how they size compared to the Sportiva Mythos? For $60 that's just hard to pass on.
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unrest
Oct 23, 2009, 7:33 PM
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I love the Acopa shoes and that was what I was going to get but now the $60 Evolvs are making it a hard choice.
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_SLY_
Oct 23, 2009, 8:08 PM
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unrest wrote: That shoe looks really cool. Do you know how they size compared to the Sportiva Mythos? For $60 that's just hard to pass on.
For evolvs, they say to size UP about half a size from your street shoe. I agree with them.
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newriverE
Oct 23, 2009, 8:32 PM
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The predator is an excellent shoe, absolutely. And, 60 bucks is super cheap. I wouldn't say that they are by any means a wide shoe. We usually end up selling them to someone who wants the optimus prime but who has a really narrow foot. just my two cents.
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unrest
Oct 23, 2009, 8:40 PM
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So is the Optimus Prime a "wide" shoe then? I have very wide feet. Very!
|EDIT| I want a shoe that is going to be best on Trad and Sport climbs that can edge or crack well. Back-stepping would be a really nice feature too. |EDIT|
(This post was edited by unrest on Oct 23, 2009, 8:42 PM)
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newriverE
Oct 23, 2009, 8:52 PM
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they are wide, but they are synthetic which means that if they are not quite wide enough, they're not going to stretch to get there. A leather shoe, like the acopa, even if it's not wide enough out of the box will stretch to your width. I know I sound like an Acopa rep, but really I just sell a lot of climbing shoes at a climbing shop. Ultimately, for some people fit isn't the only variable. If price is a big consideration, shoot for the optimus prime at your street size, at the most 1/2 size down, but if you want your shoe to perform at it's best, get the one that fits your foot better even if it costs a little more now. Shoes that fit well get worn a lot more than bargain shoes that don't fit. I know i've got a few pairs of shoes that I "couldn't pass up" that i now pass up every time i go climbing...
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dudemanbu
Oct 23, 2009, 11:14 PM
Post #17 of 24
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shimanilami wrote: You can't have one shoe that does it all, no matter how wide or narrow your foot is. The requirements for bouldering are just too different from those for trad. I have a wide foot. My favorite sport/bouldering shoe is the Galileo. My favorite trad shoe was the Marathon, but I'm looking for something new. The Acopa Aztecs felt nice in the store, but I've yet to purchase them and put them to the test.
I disagree. My old 5.10 zlippers really did it all, from slab, to cracks, to bouldering.. everything from 60 degrees to 180.
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sycamore
Oct 24, 2009, 12:57 AM
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I have wide feet, and currently climb in Merlins (one resole), Miuras (two resoles) and Miura VS's.
The Merlins are super comfortable, and fit really well. Like, the best fitting shoe I've ever used. However, mine are too soft for me to trust them on anything really edgy. They're great on slopey stuff, and have a great feel, but I've generally relegated them to the position of warm-up shoes. The Spectres are lined, and I imagine they're a little stiffer, which might be perfect.
The VS's are awesome. A great compromise between a sporty, edgy shoe, and something you can really toe in with on overhangs. I love them, but they softened up a bit and now need a resole (I always blow out the rands on my right toe). I'm sure they'll be back to being awesome once that has happened.
I've had my Miuras for 7 years now, gone through three soles, two rands, and two pairs of shoelaces, and they still fit perfectly (i.e., super tight) and generally kick ass. I just trust them completely when I'm wearing them, especially outside. They're still just stiff enough to engender confidence on even the tiniest of dime edges. The Merlins are billed as the ultimate edging shoe, but they don't hold a candle to the Miuras in that department. Unless it's really overhanging, these are my onsight shoes of choice.
It's just how I feel, man.
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shockabuku
Oct 25, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #19 of 24
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sycamore wrote: I have wide feet, and currently climb in Merlins (one resole), Miuras (two resoles) and Miura VS's. The Merlins are super comfortable, and fit really well. Like, the best fitting shoe I've ever used. However, mine are too soft for me to trust them on anything really edgy. They're great on slopey stuff, and have a great feel, but I've generally relegated them to the position of warm-up shoes. The Spectres are lined, and I imagine they're a little stiffer, which might be perfect. The VS's are awesome. A great compromise between a sporty, edgy shoe, and something you can really toe in with on overhangs. I love them, but they softened up a bit and now need a resole (I always blow out the rands on my right toe). I'm sure they'll be back to being awesome once that has happened. I've had my Miuras for 7 years now, gone through three soles, two rands, and two pairs of shoelaces, and they still fit perfectly (i.e., super tight) and generally kick ass. I just trust them completely when I'm wearing them, especially outside. They're still just stiff enough to engender confidence on even the tiniest of dime edges. The Merlins are billed as the ultimate edging shoe, but they don't hold a candle to the Miuras in that department. Unless it's really overhanging, these are my onsight shoes of choice. It's just how I feel, man.
If the Miura lace-up fits you well, you don't have particularly wide feet.
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altelis
Oct 25, 2009, 6:01 PM
Post #20 of 24
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shockabuku wrote: sycamore wrote: I have wide feet, and currently climb in Merlins (one resole), Miuras (two resoles) and Miura VS's. The Merlins are super comfortable, and fit really well. Like, the best fitting shoe I've ever used. However, mine are too soft for me to trust them on anything really edgy. They're great on slopey stuff, and have a great feel, but I've generally relegated them to the position of warm-up shoes. The Spectres are lined, and I imagine they're a little stiffer, which might be perfect. The VS's are awesome. A great compromise between a sporty, edgy shoe, and something you can really toe in with on overhangs. I love them, but they softened up a bit and now need a resole (I always blow out the rands on my right toe). I'm sure they'll be back to being awesome once that has happened. I've had my Miuras for 7 years now, gone through three soles, two rands, and two pairs of shoelaces, and they still fit perfectly (i.e., super tight) and generally kick ass. I just trust them completely when I'm wearing them, especially outside. They're still just stiff enough to engender confidence on even the tiniest of dime edges. The Merlins are billed as the ultimate edging shoe, but they don't hold a candle to the Miuras in that department. Unless it's really overhanging, these are my onsight shoes of choice. It's just how I feel, man. If the Miura lace-up fits you well, you don't have particularly wide feet.
This is corekt, esp considering i have a NARROW foot and fit into the miuras pretty well!
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agdavis
Oct 25, 2009, 6:08 PM
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I have wide feet, and I wear Scarpa Technos. They are super comfy...
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hansundfritz
Oct 26, 2009, 1:37 PM
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Bump for more wide foot feedback.
Not the highest performance shoe out there, I know, but I have the Tradmasters (La Sportiva). I wear a 10 EE/EEE in running shoes -- 9.5 Tradmasters fit me pretty well. Good for what I do: moderate trad mileage over varied terrain.
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I_do
Oct 26, 2009, 2:10 PM
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Haven't you guys ever heard of the katana's? Or don't you consider those wide? I do. And I freakin love em!
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_SLY_
Oct 26, 2009, 3:46 PM
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newriverE wrote: The predator is an excellent shoe, absolutely. And, 60 bucks is super cheap. I wouldn't say that they are by any means a wide shoe. We usually end up selling them to someone who wants the optimus prime but who has a really narrow foot. just my two cents.
I'd like to confirm this and clarify my earlier post. I have an odd shaped foot, where my entire foot isn't wide, but from the balls of my foot forward it's wide, and I have long toes, so I need a big toe box. If that's your situation, then I totally think you should try out the predators. I liked the optimus feel width wise, but there was something about the way it fit the top of my foot that just made it feel too...boxy, for lack of a better word.
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