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TYclimbOK
Oct 28, 2009, 1:49 AM
Post #1 of 7
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Registered: Jan 26, 2009
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I searched the forums and have not found a good answer so here it goes:
I live in southern California and I have recently started aid climbing and have found myself running into a problem with hangerless bolts. I know I can just use a small nut and slide the stopper down but I want a better option. Would keyhole hangers or wire cinch hangers be a better investment and of what sizes? I plan on climbing for many years to come and I'm hoping for a chance to get to Yosemite next summer so if the gear I buy now will still be able to be used there even better. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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pbcowboy77
Oct 30, 2009, 1:17 AM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
Posts: 574
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First of all, are you talking about hangerless bolts or are talking about rivets?
If your talking about hangerless bolts, bring some nuts and hangers and leave them...
Now I have not run into a hangerless bolt so I assume you mean a rivet...
In that case, It all depends on what your trying to clip... Sometimes the Moses keyhole hangers don't work, like on aluminum dowels or if the head has sheared off of the rivet. I would tart out with buying normal wire rivet hangers and maybe 2 or 3 of each size of the Moses keyhole hangers.
don't die...
Zac
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xtrmecat
Oct 30, 2009, 1:43 AM
Post #5 of 7
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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Also Fish makes a critter that goes way beyond a rivet hanger. It is called a Doubloon, and it wouldn't hurt to look at some of the other gear he makes and has. The man climbs hard, and is the sort of chap I would support with my bucks. Just don't piss him off or the source will dry up. A tad finicky in that dept.. And rightfully so.
Bob
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pbcowboy77
Nov 3, 2009, 2:52 AM
Post #6 of 7
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
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Be careful with the Doubloon... It's intended to be used on blown rivets when they are barley sticking out. They tend to cut into the rivet. They are really harsh on Aluminum dowels.
Zac
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xtrmecat
Nov 9, 2009, 11:57 PM
Post #7 of 7
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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Yes, I second the "don't Doubloon" a piece of aluminum. I was under the impression you needed to hang onto a bolt or hangerless fastener. The doubloon was suggested because it will bite what precious little may be left if the hangerless little tidbit has gotten driven in, sheared due to rockfall, etc.
Bob
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