|
|
|
|
p8ntballsk8r
Oct 28, 2009, 6:20 AM
Post #1 of 9
(7301 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 12, 2009
Posts: 81
|
How strong is it? I'm talking about the stuff used to make prussik loops and what not. I know that it's basically a thin rope, and should be treated like a rope that wears pretty fast. Obviously always inspect the cord before using.
It's strong enough to hang from, but how strong is it actually? Using as a substitute for a rope would be dumb, but could be done. Probably only in a TR situation but would be extremely dangerous. I'm not looking to do this, but just pondering some things.
Is it strong and reliable enough to join two biners together to make a quickdraw? I think a sling would be a better bet, but in the instance where only cord is available and not a sling, how much force can this little cord hold?
A more realistic use instead of making a quickdraw, would be to lengthen a quickdraw to either reduce significant rope drag or to prevent the draw or rope from hanging in a detrimental spot either on the rock or where the rope will be subject to damage.
I've also heard one way to pass a knot while belaying is to prussik on the climber's side of the ATC, load it, then unclip the belay device and reattach it to the other side of the rope. Is this a safe practice?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
qwert
Oct 28, 2009, 10:16 AM
Post #3 of 9
(7257 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394
|
How stupid can you be?
Every new thread of you tops your last one!
congrats for that.
Back on topic: I have heard rumors that the manufacturers of climbing gear always test their stuff to find out how strong it is, and that they actually produce their stuff in such a way that all batches match this strengths.
The rumors even say that they publish these strengths on their web sites and catalogues, and even make retailers quote those strengths, when they want to sell their stuff.
And there supposedly even some strange things called books, where one also can supposedly obtain some genereall strength values for cords, and even some safe practices and techniques to use them. 
I know that all sounds very wild, but thats the rumors i have heard.
qwert
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Oct 28, 2009, 11:25 AM
Post #4 of 9
(7238 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
qwert wrote: How stupid can you be? Every new thread of you tops your last one! congrats for that. Back on topic: I have heard rumors that the manufacturers of climbing gear always test their stuff to find out how strong it is, and that they actually produce their stuff in such a way that all batches match this strengths. The rumors even say that they publish these strengths on their web sites and catalogues, and even make retailers quote those strengths, when they want to sell their stuff. And there supposedly even some strange things called books, where one also can supposedly obtain some genereall strength values for cords, and even some safe practices and techniques to use them. I know that all sounds very wild, but thats the rumors i have heard. qwert
Thanks, you just made my morning.
binrat
|
|
|
|
|
airscape
Oct 28, 2009, 11:35 AM
Post #5 of 9
(7237 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2001
Posts: 4240
|
Accessory chord is to accessorize all your other equipment, you know to liven it up a bit. Are you a fashionable climber?
Add a nice pink twirl of accessory chord to your cams to make them match your chalk bag.
A prussik is not a back up for anything as some would have you believe. it's just a nice way to contrast the colors of your rope and enhance the color of you eyes.
|
|
|
|
|
billl7
Oct 28, 2009, 11:41 AM
Post #6 of 9
(7233 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
|
p8ntballsk8r wrote: I've also heard one way to pass a knot while belaying is to prussik on the climber's side of the ATC, load it, then unclip the belay device and reattach it to the other side of the rope. Is this a safe practice?
|
|
|
|
|
LostinMaine
Oct 28, 2009, 4:21 PM
Post #7 of 9
(7170 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
|
qwert wrote: How stupid can you be? Every new thread of you tops your last one! congrats for that. Back on topic: I have heard rumors that the manufacturers of climbing gear always test their stuff to find out how strong it is, and that they actually produce their stuff in such a way that all batches match this strengths. The rumors even say that they publish these strengths on their web sites and catalogues, and even make retailers quote those strengths, when they want to sell their stuff. And there supposedly even some strange things called books, where one also can supposedly obtain some genereall strength values for cords, and even some safe practices and techniques to use them. I know that all sounds very wild, but thats the rumors i have heard. qwert
lies.
|
|
|
|
|
tomtom
Oct 28, 2009, 4:31 PM
Post #8 of 9
(7160 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 366
|
p8ntballsk8r wrote: How strong is it? I'm talking about the stuff used to make prussik loops and what not. I know that it's basically a thin rope, and should be treated like a rope that wears pretty fast. Obviously always inspect the cord before using.
The rated strength of accessory cord depends on it's manufacture. Here are two examples of 6mm cord:
One is rated to a minimum breaking strength 2,260 lbf. (10.05kN)
http://www.karstsports.com/6mmaccor.html
and the other is not rated.
http://www.karstsports.com/sporaccor6mm.html
The rated cord will have a sticker on the spool with the specs.
|
|
|
|
|
Shintao
Oct 29, 2009, 5:56 AM
Post #9 of 9
(7094 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2009
Posts: 32
|
I think you should team up with Majid and climb...
Match made in heaven
|
|
|
|
|
|
