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oldcolombodog


Oct 31, 2009, 3:36 AM
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Do you keep a rope log?
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JAB wrote:
oldcolombodog wrote:
Do put this on your rope log?

Do you seriously have a rope log? Do you also write logs for your quickdraws and cams?

Yeah well call me coo-koo but I do have a rope log for both my ropes. Maybe this is just a carry over from my job in the fire service but it makes sense to me.

I mark down what kind of service the rope was doing (TR, Lead, Rappels) location, dates and any significant event to the rope. (washing, lead falls, ect.) I also have on record the purchase dates as well. This is a folded piece of paper kept in my rope bag and takes ten seconds or less to fill out after a day of climbing. This is probably considered overkill by many but it's what I do.

I don't have logs for slings, cordolette, QD's, or any biners nor pro. I do know which ones have been subjected to falls or other abuse. Those ones are the first to go should I require a leaver for an escape or otherwise. Or they just get replaced before they wear out.

This could be headed for a new thread so I'll put it up in a new one and see what people think. Nobody I've gone climbing with so far has been opposed to knowing what kind of history and condition my rope was in and I've never heard anyone complain while I filled out an entry in my rope log.

So here it is on it's own thread... Do you keep a rope log? I do. I can't come up with enough cons not to versus the pro's of having one.
I'm not saying everybody needs to get one, but I'm curious what everyone else is doing.


(This post was edited by oldcolombodog on Oct 31, 2009, 3:42 AM)


CrazyPetie


Oct 31, 2009, 3:42 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Your rope log isn't going to help you if your rope gets cut on a sharp arete or something when you fall.

I dont go by numbers or falls or type of use, I just go by look and feel. It really doesn't have to be that complicated.


jmeizis


Oct 31, 2009, 4:26 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I kept a rope log when I got my first rope. What I realized after working at a gym, for a guide service, and running a rock and ice program for an outdoor school is that you can tell a lot more about a rope from feel and visual inspection than a rope log. Ropes have a lot more life in them than people give them credit for.

Anything major that would decrease the life of a rope significantly would be memorable enough to not need to be written down.


healyje


Oct 31, 2009, 4:28 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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oldcolombodog wrote:
Maybe this is just a carry over from my job in the fire service...

Understandable given this background; otherwise it would basically fall under a broad WTF category of ambitious climbing analisms.


jmvc


Oct 31, 2009, 8:42 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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oldcolombodog wrote:
So here it is on it's own thread... Do you keep a rope log? I do.

I don't

In reply to:
I can't come up with enough cons not to versus the pro's of having one.

Cons: Having to keep the damm log.

Pros: Errr...

Seriously, I would remember anything worth noting about the rope.

Edit: tags mess up


(This post was edited by jmvc on Oct 31, 2009, 8:43 AM)


socalclimber


Oct 31, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Rope logs are useful in rescue work. As far as climbing goes, visual and physical inspections have way more value. My guess is that you will stop doing this at some point.


Partner angry


Oct 31, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Is there a certain amount of abuse that will cause you to retire the rope or do you just like to log?

Most of us retire a rope for chemical reasons, if it gets cut or core shot, if it's too fuzzy, has sheath slippage, or holds a factor two fall.

Does the rope log tell you something different?


tradmanclimbs


Oct 31, 2009, 12:05 PM
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Going to have to ask jay how many noob points you get for keeping a rope logWink My guess is pretty darn close to tripple digitsCool

Interesting to note that top ropeing and lowering cause much more dammage to your rope than falling. Don't believe me look at the gym ropes. Sport ropes get beat up from all that lowering especialy if the rock is sharp. My skinny doubble ropes last years longer than my single cragging rope simply because they never get lowered. I do fall on them ocasionaly and they get used for rappells but not that yo yo crap that kills a rope in 3 months....


johnwesely


Oct 31, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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No, I do not keep a rope log. I don't see the point.


jaablink


Oct 31, 2009, 1:03 PM
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I keep a log… Not so much a fall log , never factored any of the lines, but if I did I would record it also like you stated, if you shorten a line for whatever reason it should be logged. The log has the dates, make, and size of the ropes On any given Sunday I have multiple sets laying around that are in the use cycle (ice, lead, crag, traxion , Top-Rope, heavy, light , thin, thick, very elastic , low elasticity , repelling ). The factory end tags always seems to go first. Even if you have only one rope, it can be a good idea start keeping log to get into the habit . Eventually your lead lines will work their way down the chain to being used for top-ropes. As you accumulate more and more sets through the years, it is hard to always remember.


Partner j_ung


Oct 31, 2009, 1:28 PM
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Re: [jaablink] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Do you also have corresponding thresholds at which you will retire the rope? If you don't, then you're just ropesterbating.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 31, 2009, 1:34 PM
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guess i just never smoked or drank enough to forget which ropes were my ice ropes and which rope was my spurt rope and which ropes were for logging and breaking shit, etc... Cool


jaablink


Oct 31, 2009, 2:45 PM
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I buy multiple sets a year, they are different tools for different jobs and i use multiple sets for each . If a lead line takes a lot of abuse, it may not even last through 1 season. I notice they become more and more stiff in time from falling on them. The handling of the line changees, it will go from bungee to stiff with abuse in a very short time with heavy use. But , In Gen.. If the sheath is too damaged, rope gets stiff, or it hits its 3 year mark ,sometimes much much sooner, depending on use and what it is being used for they move down the line or, They get cut up and make good jump ropes… toe lines or whatever…


jt512


Oct 31, 2009, 2:45 PM
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oldcolombodog wrote:
JAB wrote:
oldcolombodog wrote:
Do put this on your rope log?

Do you seriously have a rope log? Do you also write logs for your quickdraws and cams?

Yeah well call me coo-koo but I do have a rope log for both my ropes. Maybe this is just a carry over from my job in the fire service but it makes sense to me.

I mark down what kind of service the rope was doing (TR, Lead, Rappels) location, dates and any significant event to the rope. (washing, lead falls, ect.) I also have on record the purchase dates as well. This is a folded piece of paper kept in my rope bag and takes ten seconds or less to fill out after a day of climbing. This is probably considered overkill by many but it's what I do.

So, you accumulate all this data on your rope. What exactly do you do with it?

Jay


jaablink


Oct 31, 2009, 2:47 PM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I don’t smoke or drink… ever…. But I do take multiple long trips yearly all over the world, and have accumulated a large amount of equipment. In 05 I had a different system setup… then 5 of my 6 packs were stolen from my home along with many firearms. The thieves were caught and are locked up. When the home owners insurance paid to replace the equipment I changed my system, and started the rope log, as well as marking my gear , and keeping receipts…in the log…


Bats


Oct 31, 2009, 4:04 PM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I was going to go climbing with this friend from the gym, she had rope, I had draws. She called and cancelled, because the question of her rope safety. It was 3 years old and only climb 10 times with 2 falls. Without inspection, I said it should be fine, but she cancelled anyway. On the other spectrum, I have climbed with friends and have questioned them about their rope age and uses. These guys climb hard and almost every week. One of the ropes was showing so much ware, when flaking the core was in huge pieces every 5 ft. No body wanted to use it, even the guy whos rope it was. That rope was used the previous weekend. The rope we did use had snags in the sheath, but the core was solid. I think it is about your personal safety.
And Dude, don't you guys in Rescue use a less stretch rope and have a use number? I asked because work for Houston Fire and that is what one of the Captains told me. In fact, I might get to go to the tower and try resuce rapelling.


cavemanNdisguise


Oct 31, 2009, 5:50 PM
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I've kept a rope log since I bought my first rope. It's just a small composition book that fits nicely in the rope bag pocket. After each trip I record the date(s), location/crag, # of pitches, and # of lead falls. I'll also record other info such as wash dates/detergent used or any other incidents worth noting. This book is really more of a generally estimation of the wear and tear my rope has seen because there are many subjective factors to consider. I do not simply retire a rope based on numbers and dates. I must agree with the majority of the discussion in that feeling for imperfections and visual inspection is a far better way to determine the condition of a rope than a simple rope log. However combing the information found in a rope log with visual inspection would be beneficial. Also, it's often interesting to look back through the rope log after a year or two and realize how many amazing places you've been and recount how many pitches/lead falls your rope has seen.


jt512


Oct 31, 2009, 6:01 PM
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've kept a rope log since I bought my first rope. It's just a small composition book that fits nicely in the rope bag pocket. After each trip I record the date(s), location/crag, # of pitches, and # of lead falls. I'll also record other info such as wash dates/detergent used or any other incidents worth noting. This book is really more of a generally estimation of the wear and tear my rope has seen because there are many subjective factors to consider. I do not simply retire a rope based on numbers and dates. I must agree with the majority of the discussion in that feeling for imperfections and visual inspection is a far better way to determine the condition of a rope than a simple rope log. However combing the information found in a rope log with visual inspection would be beneficial. Also, it's often interesting to look back through the rope log after a year or two and realize how many amazing places you've been and recount how many pitches/lead falls your rope has seen.

Can you please provide some specific examples of how you have used the data in your rope log to make determinations on whether or not to retire your rope. For instance, have you had ropes that seemed fine on physical inspection, but you retired them because of specific information in your log; if so, what specific data in your log led you to decide to retire your rope? Or, conversely, ropes that seemed to warrant retirement on physical inspection, but you kept them in service because of specific information in your log; if so, what specific data did you rely on?

Jay


altelis


Oct 31, 2009, 6:16 PM
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've kept a rope log since I bought my first rope. It's just a small composition book that fits nicely in the rope bag pocket. After each trip I record the date(s), location/crag, # of pitches, and # of lead falls. I'll also record other info such as wash dates/detergent used or any other incidents worth noting. This book is really more of a generally estimation of the wear and tear my rope has seen because there are many subjective factors to consider. I do not simply retire a rope based on numbers and dates. I must agree with the majority of the discussion in that feeling for imperfections and visual inspection is a far better way to determine the condition of a rope than a simple rope log. However combing the information found in a rope log with visual inspection would be beneficial. Also, it's often interesting to look back through the rope log after a year or two and realize how many amazing places you've been and recount how many pitches/lead falls your rope has seen.

While I think that a rope log is a complete waste of time this is the only somewhat reasonable logic I have seen for a ropelog.

That said-I like to use my pictures and stacks of annotated guidebooks to remind me of those sam facts Tongue

You also say you note "other incidents worth noting"....How in god's name is the crag, number of pitches and lead falls as well as the detergent used things worth noting?!?!

If its not the right detergent, why did you use it? If it doesn't do aything to the rope, why note it? Were the lead falls factor 1-2? If not, why note it? None of these things can be in any way quantified in a useful way to figure out the expiration date of your rope, so whats the hassle worth? Note stuff about pitches in the guidebook (so you can have route info in one consolidated place) and use your camera!


cotowers


Oct 31, 2009, 6:45 PM
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Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____

If more than 5 or so years have passed start thinking about getting a new one even if the rope still looks and feels ok.


cavemanNdisguise


Oct 31, 2009, 7:15 PM
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Re: [jt512] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I've never retired a rope based solely on information found in my rope log. In addition, I've never kept a rope which failed a visual inspection based on information found in my rope log. If a rope fails visual inspection I can open my rope log and take a look at the details... If the rope is relatively new (or even brand new), seen few lead falls, and experienced (to my knowledge) no unusual wear and tear, I'm still going to retire the rope. However, I can then contemplate that the damage came from either an extreme circumstance (sharp edge, ect.) or possibly a manufacturing problem. Alternatively, if the rope has been in service for 2.5 years, caught 85 lead falls, and been subject to much rope drag and hang-dogging, I can then determine that I’ve probably got my money’s worth and it is due time to retire the rope. After climbing for decades through the lifetime of numerous ropes, one might be able to look back over the information and ascertain a pattern of some sort. For example, he might notice that all the ropes which faced no unusual wear and tear were ready to be retired around 3 years, 1000 pitches, and 80 lead falls. It’s also possible that this person would find no pattern of any sort and the data would be completely sporadic providing no realistic speculation on the typical lifetime of a rope.

I wish I had enough figures to give you some specific results, but I simply haven’t been climbing long enough. I do intend to accumulate this data as I, God willingly, climb through the next few decades. Maybe someone here has done this and can offer some insight? The problem with forming a “typical lifetime” for a rope is that people will presume to expect that from their rope and not yield caution while the rope is still young often neglecting to inspect the rope visually. I’m the kind of person that inspects my rope before every trip because I understand that it only takes one bad fall, or chemical spill, which may even go unnoticed at the time, to render the rope useless. So, we must take great caution when presenting this kind of data to the public.

As I mentioned before, there are so many subjective factors that contribute to wear and tear on a rope and as a result, it is difficult to conclude on any definitive information provided on the typical lifetime of a rope. My rope log is not going to influence my decision on when to retire my rope until I know more about the durability of dynamic ropes. At the moment it is more or less just an accumulation of data and something I enjoy filling out as I reflect back on my climbing trips. Most people probably don’t need a rope log to remember what kind of wear and tear their rope has been subject to. And most people probably don’t care exactly how many pitches their rope has been service to, but this is information my rope log provides for me and my own benefit.


jt512


Oct 31, 2009, 7:30 PM
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've never retired a rope based solely on information found in my rope log. In addition, I've never kept a rope which failed a visual inspection based on information found in my rope log. If a rope fails visual inspection I can open my rope log and take a look at the details... If the rope is relatively new (or even brand new), seen few lead falls, and experienced (to my knowledge) no unusual wear and tear, I'm still going to retire the rope. However, I can then contemplate that the damage came from either an extreme circumstance (sharp edge, ect.) or possibly a manufacturing problem. Alternatively, if the rope has been in service for 2.5 years, caught 85 lead falls, and been subject to much rope drag and hang-dogging, I can then determine that I’ve probably got my money’s worth and it is due time to retire the rope. After climbing for decades through the lifetime of numerous ropes, one might be able to look back over the information and ascertain a pattern of some sort. For example, he might notice that all the ropes which faced no unusual wear and tear were ready to be retired around 3 years, 1000 pitches, and 80 lead falls. It’s also possible that this person would find no pattern of any sort and the data would be completely sporadic providing no realistic speculation on the typical lifetime of a rope.

I wish I had enough figures to give you some specific results, but I simply haven’t been climbing long enough. I do intend to accumulate this data as I, God willingly, climb through the next few decades. Maybe someone here has done this and can offer some insight? The problem with forming a “typical lifetime” for a rope is that people will presume to expect that from their rope and not yield caution while the rope is still young often neglecting to inspect the rope visually. I’m the kind of person that inspects my rope before every trip because I understand that it only takes one bad fall, or chemical spill, which may even go unnoticed at the time, to render the rope useless. So, we must take great caution when presenting this kind of data to the public.

As I mentioned before, there are so many subjective factors that contribute to wear and tear on a rope and as a result, it is difficult to conclude on any definitive information provided on the typical lifetime of a rope. My rope log is not going to influence my decision on when to retire my rope until I know more about the durability of dynamic ropes. At the moment it is more or less just an accumulation of data and something I enjoy filling out as I reflect back on my climbing trips. Most people probably don’t need a rope log to remember what kind of wear and tear their rope has been subject to. And most people probably don’t care exactly how many pitches their rope has been service to, but this is information my rope log provides for me and my own benefit.

In other words, it's all hypothetical. You've never used the data either to retire a rope or to keep it in service. But you hope that some day you might. Out of curiosity, how many ropes have you even ever retired?

Jay


suprasoup


Oct 31, 2009, 7:37 PM
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In reply to:
Out of curiosity, how many ropes have you even ever retired?

YOU beat me too it! Haha. I'd be curious to know how many ropes people have retired so far. Just to get the ball rolling:

12-14 ropes in the 9 years I've been climbing.


notapplicable


Oct 31, 2009, 7:59 PM
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cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____

If more than 5 or so years have passed start thinking about getting a new one even if the rope still looks and feels ok.

Agreed. I can see where tracking the age of all your software could be useful but anything beyond the purchase date is just superfluous.


cavemanNdisguise


Oct 31, 2009, 8:08 PM
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I've retired 0 ropes, so that should tell you something about my experience on subject of retiring a rope and the integrity of what I have to say on the topic. I wouldn't go so far as to assume I know nothing, but time and experience speaks for itself.

My current (and first) rope has been in service for just over 15 months. It's seen 40 days of climbing, ~307 pitches, 29 lead falls, and been washed once. With this information I can produce numerous figures... I climb, on average, 7.6 pitches/day. I (or someone climbing on my rope) takes a lead fall about every 10.5 pitches. The rope is showing some wear in the sheath, but no damage to the core and no change in elongation. Now, you might ask what does this information tell me about my rope? Well, it's in relatively good condition and probably still safe to climb with. A simple visual inspection could have determined that, but it couldn't have provided the specific information within in my rope log.

Maybe you don't care about the specifics of your rope? But, at the moment, I do and I find it interesting. And unless it, in some way, is a hazard to my health, why does it matter that I keep one? Keeping up-to-date with a rope log is not a bothersome task for me and I prefer/enjoy doing it. If anyone can determine how a rope log could produce negative effects (other than those I mentioned previously), I expect you to speak up for the benefit of us all.

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