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jswan415
Oct 31, 2009, 5:47 PM
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I have a length (appx. 20 ft) cut from a brand new edelrid 10 mm (I think) 60m (now 50 meterish) dynamic dry rope, and was wondering if there are any issues with using this to set up anchors as opposed to webbing or cordalette.
I'm not the one who cut it, so let's just get that out of the way.
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epoch
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Oct 31, 2009, 5:54 PM
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It will be bulkier, and heavier than a traditional 7mm chordelette.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 31, 2009, 8:21 PM
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As epoch said, added bulk and weight with no realistic safety benefit. Why would you do this?
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kachoong
Oct 31, 2009, 8:34 PM
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jswan415 wrote: I have a length (appx. 20 ft) cut from a brand new edelrid 10 mm (I think) 60m (now 50 meterish) dynamic dry rope, and was wondering if there are any issues with using this to set up anchors as opposed to webbing or cordalette. I'm not the one who cut it, so let's just get that out of the way.
I used to use rope to set up top ropes, but it was at a crag we could drive right up to (Kangaroo Point in Brisbane, Aus). Also it was static rope. If you use your Edelrid you'll find too much stretch for top ropes, which may lead to sawing action occurring. If you can minimize the length from anchor points to master point, you should be OK, but personally I'd just use webbing in your situation.
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jswan415
Oct 31, 2009, 9:54 PM
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I didn't consider dynamic being a bad thing as far as extension and abrading. I would only use it on day trips setting up TR, not multi-pitch or long leads, so the weight is a non-issue. Just wondering if I could get some good use out of it other than another tie-down for the truck.
Thanks
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johnwesely
Oct 31, 2009, 9:56 PM
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Go for it, you probably won't kill yourself.
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jswan415
Oct 31, 2009, 9:58 PM
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When you say no safety benefit, do you mean that it would be less safe than webbing or 7mm cordalette, or not safe at all?
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kylekienitz
Oct 31, 2009, 10:00 PM
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So... who cut it?
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jswan415
Oct 31, 2009, 10:07 PM
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my older brother needed the length for something or other and sawed the length off with a knife. Once I found out, I promptly took it back and cut off about a foot down from the frayed end with a hot knife.
My first rope, hadn't climbed on it yet, and have only used it once since to set up a short TR (wouldn't even consider it for a lead)
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kylekienitz
Oct 31, 2009, 10:10 PM
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Well, after hearing that story I know the perfect use for 10m of rope.
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TarHeelEMT
Oct 31, 2009, 10:16 PM
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jswan415 wrote: When you say no safety benefit, do you mean that it would be less safe than webbing or 7mm cordalette, or not safe at all?
No real safety benefit in the sense that a cordalette run to several primary placements can hold the greatest conceivable force that a climbing team can put on it. The rope as an anchor can hold more force, but those forces are so great that they won't occur in climbing.
Now that I know you plan to use it for top-roping, the weight and bulk disadvantage is irrelevant. In a general sense, it's totally safe to use either for a top-rope anchor. One might be better than the other in a given situation, but that's for you to decide. The fact that it is dynamic could cause some bouncing effect. I'd prefer static rope in that situation.
(This post was edited by TarHeelEMT on Oct 31, 2009, 10:18 PM)
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taydude
Oct 31, 2009, 11:27 PM
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sounds like your brother owes you a new rope...
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Costa
Nov 1, 2009, 12:24 AM
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kylekienitz wrote: Well, after hearing that story I know the perfect use for 10m of rope. [image]http://witchdoctor.files.wordpress.com/2008/01/noose.jpg[/image]
+1 or even better fishing line 
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billcoe_
Nov 1, 2009, 2:01 AM
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jswan415 wrote: my older brother needed the length for something or other and sawed the length off with a knife. Once I found out, I promptly took it back and cut off about a foot down from the frayed end with a hot knife. My first rope, hadn't climbed on it yet, and have only used it once since to set up a short TR (wouldn't even consider it for a lead)
When your brother cuts off your only rope, that's called a Choad-a-lette. I use old rope both for top ropes and occasionally for leaving behind as rap anchors on horns etc etc.
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qtm
Nov 1, 2009, 2:45 AM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: As epoch said, added bulk and weight with no realistic safety benefit. Why would you do this?
The 20' of dynamic rope can be used as a single strand. Which means you could anchor to a tree 16 feet or so back from the edge. To reach that with 7mm cordalettes, you'd need two.
It could be useful for toprope anchors, but well for normal lead anchors, just use the lead rope.
(This post was edited by qtm on Nov 1, 2009, 2:48 AM)
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TarHeelEMT
Nov 1, 2009, 7:36 PM
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qtm wrote: TarHeelEMT wrote: As epoch said, added bulk and weight with no realistic safety benefit. Why would you do this? The 20' of dynamic rope can be used as a single strand. Which means you could anchor to a tree 16 feet or so back from the edge. To reach that with 7mm cordalettes, you'd need two. It could be useful for toprope anchors, but well for normal lead anchors, just use the lead rope.
Yeah, once I realized he was talking about top-roping I changed my response. In my mind I always default to "unspecified climbing=multipitch trad."
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