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Partner epoch
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Oct 31, 2009, 8:11 PM
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Re: [cotowers] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____
No more, not less.


notapplicable


Oct 31, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've retired 0 ropes, so that should tell you something about my experience on subject of retiring a rope and the integrity of what I have to say on the topic. I wouldn't go so far as to assume I know nothing, but time and experience speaks for itself.

My current (and first) rope has been in service for just over 15 months. It's seen 40 days of climbing, ~307 pitches, 29 lead falls, and been washed once. With this information I can produce numerous figures... I climb, on average, 7.6 pitches/day. I (or someone climbing on my rope) takes a lead fall about every 10.5 pitches. The rope is showing some wear in the sheath, but no damage to the core and no change in elongation. Now, you might ask what does this information tell me about my rope? Well, it's in relatively good condition and probably still safe to climb with. A simple visual inspection could have determined that, but it couldn't have provided the specific information within in my rope log.

Maybe you don't care about the specifics of your rope? But, at the moment, I do and I find it interesting. And unless it, in some way, is a hazard to my health, why does it matter that I keep one? Keeping up-to-date with a rope log is not a bothersome task for me and I prefer/enjoy doing it. If anyone can determine how a rope log could produce negative effects (other than those I mentioned previously), I expect you to speak up for the benefit of us all.

Your not keeping a rope log, your keeping a climbing log. Which is fine, great even, if it helps you track your evolution as a climber or is just a hobby you enjoy. What it won't do is provide any useful information with respect to the integrity of your rope.

As a rope log, your rope log is about as useful as a fly swatter in bat country.


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Oct 31, 2009, 8:31 PM
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Re: [epoch] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Do any of you rope logging types record how many times you brutalize it working your project on TR or how many times your buddy yarded his girlfriend through some ledgy 5.5? Hell, get a whole crew together for an afternoon of casual TR cragging and it's like gang rape to a rope. Tongue And yet, some people seem to be logging things like "lead falls." What, exactly, can I expect one "lead fall" to do to my rope? Crazy

I think standard rope logs border on useless, unless you're an institutional user, and even then, IMO, their value may be limited to what you need to maintain your organizational certifications. Glad some folks here are talking up regular inspections, instead.


cavemanNdisguise


Oct 31, 2009, 8:34 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Please enlighten me on how I can improve my rope log to better provide useful information with respect to the integrity of my rope, Mr. Thompson.


jt512


Oct 31, 2009, 8:39 PM
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've retired 0 ropes, so that should tell you something about my experience on subject of retiring a rope and the integrity of what I have to say on the topic.

It certainly does, yet in your first two posts you make no hint of the fact that you're a total n00b who is still using his first rope! Instead you post as if you're an authority.

In reply to:
My current (and first) rope has been in service for just over 15 months. It's seen 40 days of climbing, ~307 pitches, 29 lead falls, and been washed once. With this information I can produce numerous figures... I climb, on average, 7.6 pitches/day. I (or someone climbing on my rope) takes a lead fall about every 10.5 pitches. The rope is showing some wear in the sheath, but no damage to the core and no change in elongation. Now, you might ask what does this information tell me about my rope? Well, it's in relatively good condition and probably still safe to climb with. A simple visual inspection could have determined that, but it couldn't have provided the specific information within in my rope log.

Exactly. You can produce all kinds of statistics that are utterly useless in determining when to retire your rope.

In reply to:
Maybe you don't care about the specifics of your rope?


You're right, I don't. I use my rope until it starts getting worn out. Then I buy a new one. Durrr!

Jay


Partner j_ung


Oct 31, 2009, 8:40 PM
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've retired 0 ropes, so that should tell you something about my experience on subject of retiring a rope and the integrity of what I have to say on the topic. I wouldn't go so far as to assume I know nothing, but time and experience speaks for itself.

My current (and first) rope has been in service for just over 15 months. It's seen 40 days of climbing, ~307 pitches, 29 lead falls, and been washed once. With this information I can produce numerous figures... I climb, on average, 7.6 pitches/day. I (or someone climbing on my rope) takes a lead fall about every 10.5 pitches. The rope is showing some wear in the sheath, but no damage to the core and no change in elongation. Now, you might ask what does this information tell me about my rope? Well, it's in relatively good condition and probably still safe to climb with. A simple visual inspection could have determined that, but it couldn't have provided the specific information within in my rope log.

Maybe you don't care about the specifics of your rope? But, at the moment, I do and I find it interesting. And unless it, in some way, is a hazard to my health, why does it matter that I keep one? Keeping up-to-date with a rope log is not a bothersome task for me and I prefer/enjoy doing it. If anyone can determine how a rope log could produce negative effects (other than those I mentioned previously), I expect you to speak up for the benefit of us all.

Not saying this is you, because it obviously isn't, given the above quote. But, if somebody were to rely solely (or even mostly) on a rope log to determine their rope's condition, all while only logging what amounts to useless (but entertaining) rope trivia, that might constitute gumbyism.


jt512


Oct 31, 2009, 9:01 PM
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
Please enlighten me on how I can improve my rope log to better provide useful information with respect to the integrity of my rope, Mr. Thompson.

You can't. That's the whole point. There is nothing useful you can put in there.

Jay


notapplicable


Oct 31, 2009, 9:04 PM
Post #33 of 120 (4114 views)
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
Please enlighten me on how I can improve my rope log to better provide useful information with respect to the integrity of my rope, Mr. Thompson.

Sly Nice catch. You must have ridden in a convertible before.

With respect to your question though, unfortunately I can't think of any way that a rope log can be used to accurately and reliably evaluate a ropes position within it's life cycle. I honestly don't think it can be done.

No reason not to track any and every aspect of your climbing if you enjoy the thousand foot view of things though. No reason at all.


lena_chita
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Oct 31, 2009, 9:07 PM
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cavemanNdisguise wrote:
I've kept a rope log since I bought my first rope. It's just a small composition book that fits nicely in the rope bag pocket. After each trip I record the date(s), location/crag, # of pitches, and # of lead falls. I'll also record other info such as wash dates/detergent used or any other incidents worth noting. This book is really more of a generally estimation of the wear and tear my rope has seen because there are many subjective factors to consider. I do not simply retire a rope based on numbers and dates. I must agree with the majority of the discussion in that feeling for imperfections and visual inspection is a far better way to determine the condition of a rope than a simple rope log. However combing the information found in a rope log with visual inspection would be beneficial. Also, it's often interesting to look back through the rope log after a year or two and realize how many amazing places you've been and recount how many pitches/lead falls your rope has seen.

Out of curiosity, does it never happen that you are climbing with several people, your rope is set up for TR on one climb, and you step around the corner to climb a different route on your partners' rope?

In that case, do you interrogate people who have climbed on your rope while you were around the corner, to determine how many times the person fell on TR and rubbed the rope against something? in order to add that info to your log?

Or do you never, under any circumstances, let your rope get out of your eyesight?


Many people I know keep climbing logs. I do, too. For climbs I work on, I usually note how many tries I gave that climb in a day, and how many falls/hangs I managed to get it down to, as well as any details about the crux sequence that might help me jot my memory later on.

I know people who record the number of pitches per day, and extra details, such as who they climbed with, what the weather was like, whether they hung the draws, etc. It becomes more of a climbing diary, not just a climbing log.

But while interesting to go back to, and sometimes useful as a training tool, if you record pertinent data, this has nothing to do with your rope.


jeepnphreak


Oct 31, 2009, 10:00 PM
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Re: [epoch] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____
No more, not less.

That is max extent that I have ever done. then I figured that I were through a rope long before it gets too old to climb on.

Look and feel of the rope is the most important. If you feel safe to use it then do, if not make a rope rug. step two get a new rope.


curt


Oct 31, 2009, 10:02 PM
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Re: [cotowers] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____

If more than 5 or so years have passed start thinking about getting a new one even if the rope still looks and feels ok.

Which rope company are you paid by?

Curt


jt512


Nov 1, 2009, 12:25 AM
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Re: [jeepnphreak] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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jeepnphreak wrote:
epoch wrote:
cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____
No more, not less.

That is max extent that I have ever done. then I figured that I were through a rope long before it gets too old to climb on.

Look and feel of the rope is the most important. If you feel safe to use it then do, if not make a rope rug. step two get a new rope.

That's clearly unsound advice.

Jay


curt


Nov 1, 2009, 12:38 AM
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Re: [jt512] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
epoch wrote:
cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____
No more, not less.

That is max extent that I have ever done. then I figured that I were through a rope long before it gets too old to climb on.

Look and feel of the rope is the most important. If you feel safe to use it then do, if not make a rope rug. step two get a new rope.

That's clearly unsound advice.

Jay

Isn't that pretty much what we all do?

Curt


moose_droppings


Nov 1, 2009, 1:31 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I've seen rope rugs, but never seen a rope log.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Nov 1, 2009, 1:32 AM)


billcoe_


Nov 1, 2009, 1:51 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I think of utmost importance is keeping it in a rope bag all the time.

All the time when not in use that is:-)


edm


Nov 1, 2009, 1:56 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I don't keep a rope log, and I agree with the majority of posters who feel that a rope log offers little to no useful information about when to retire a rope.

However, it seems like a rope log might be useful when buying a new rope. Especially once you've retired a few ropes from different manufacturers. Then you could look back and see which brands tend to last longer under documented climbing conditions. You could also start to determine how much longer 10+mm ropes last than skinny ones, if you happened to climb with a variety of ropes. A rope log could help you get the most out of your rope-buying buck.

None of this is critical information, but I think used for this purpose a rope log might be interesting and useful. Not that I'm likely to start keeping one.

Have any of you rope-loggers kept one long enough and through enough ropes to help you choose your next rope?


jt512


Nov 1, 2009, 2:00 AM
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Re: [curt] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
epoch wrote:
cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____
No more, not less.

That is max extent that I have ever done. then I figured that I were through a rope long before it gets too old to climb on.

Look and feel of the rope is the most important. If you feel safe to use it then do, if not make a rope rug. step two get a new rope.

That's clearly unsound advice.

Jay

Isn't that pretty much what we all do?

Curt

I try to be more objective about it.

Jay


milesenoell


Nov 1, 2009, 5:19 AM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I write the date on the tails when making slings out of lengths of webbing.


curt


Nov 1, 2009, 5:25 AM
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Re: [jt512] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
curt wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jeepnphreak wrote:
epoch wrote:
cotowers wrote:
Here is what your rope log should look like.
DATE PURCHASED _____
No more, not less.

That is max extent that I have ever done. then I figured that I were through a rope long before it gets too old to climb on.

Look and feel of the rope is the most important. If you feel safe to use it then do, if not make a rope rug. step two get a new rope.

That's clearly unsound advice.

Jay

Isn't that pretty much what we all do?

Curt

I try to be more objective about it.

Jay

By keeping a log? Cool

Curt


dta95b7r


Nov 1, 2009, 12:19 PM
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Re: [cavemanNdisguise] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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its time to retire a rope when all of your partners finish up climbing plans with my rope your rack?


oldcolombodog


Nov 2, 2009, 10:46 PM
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Re: [angry] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
Is there a certain amount of abuse that will cause you to retire the rope or do you just like to log?

Most of us retire a rope for chemical reasons, if it gets cut or core shot, if it's too fuzzy, has sheath slippage, or holds a factor two fall.

Does the rope log tell you something different?


I do like to log but it's more than that. I seriouly consider the ropes retirement when it starts racking up falls above factor one. This ensures a safety margin that I like. I know the rope is tested for consecutive factor two falls but thats also on a brand new rope. In the end the decision for retirement is mostly based on physical inspection. I won't pretend that I'm not a little OCD about my gear. It's a luxury I can afford.


oldcolombodog


Nov 2, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
Do any of you rope logging types record how many times you brutalize it working your project on TR or how many times your buddy yarded his girlfriend through some ledgy 5.5? Hell, get a whole crew together for an afternoon of casual TR cragging and it's like gang rape to a rope. Tongue And yet, some people seem to be logging things like "lead falls." What, exactly, can I expect one "lead fall" to do to my rope? Crazy

I think standard rope logs border on useless, unless you're an institutional user, and even then, IMO, their value may be limited to what you need to maintain your organizational certifications. Glad some folks here are talking up regular inspections, instead.

Good point. I need to put that on the list for things to jot down... Mammut 10.2 /Mission Gorge/Gang raped on TR/ 8 pitches/ 1 rap /no falls


Partner camhead


Nov 2, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Re: [oldcolombodog] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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I retire my ropes when my partners start to look at my rope and say "uhhh, how about we go bouldering instead?"


oldcolombodog


Nov 2, 2009, 11:12 PM
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Re: [Bats] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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Bats wrote:
I was going to go climbing with this friend from the gym, she had rope, I had draws. She called and cancelled, because the question of her rope safety. It was 3 years old and only climb 10 times with 2 falls. Without inspection, I said it should be fine, but she cancelled anyway. On the other spectrum, I have climbed with friends and have questioned them about their rope age and uses. These guys climb hard and almost every week. One of the ropes was showing so much ware, when flaking the core was in huge pieces every 5 ft. No body wanted to use it, even the guy whos rope it was. That rope was used the previous weekend. The rope we did use had snags in the sheath, but the core was solid. I think it is about your personal safety.
And Dude, don't you guys in Rescue use a less stretch rope and have a use number? I asked because work for Houston Fire and that is what one of the Captains told me. In fact, I might get to go to the tower and try resuce rapelling.


Pretty much all rescue rope is static for hauling purposes so stretch is undesirable. Most departments have a use number and it varies. A fall or a shock loading on a static line is general grounds for retirement and is avoided like the plague. Have fun rappelling.


the1esteban


Nov 2, 2009, 11:16 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Do you keep a rope log? [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
I've seen rope rugs, but never seen a rope log.

just to be safe I keep a log on my rope rug

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