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Ice tools 2009!
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Poll: Ice tools 2009!
Petzl Nomic 12 / 34%
BD Fusion (new 2009) 11 / 31%
Petzl Quark 12 / 34%
35 total votes
 

shoo


Nov 5, 2009, 2:03 PM
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Ice tools 2009!
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So I'm finally making the plunge and purchasing my very own ice tools. I've pretty well narrowed it down to the above three: Petzl Nomics, the new BD Fusions, and the Petzl Quark, though I'm down for other suggestions.

I've used a variety of tools over the past couple of seasons, including old Charlet Pulsars, Petzl Nomics, Petzl Quarks. I haven't climbed anything harder than WI 3 to date, though I fully intend on pushing that a lot this winter. I'm also looking at getting into mixed as well.

I'm basically looking for a tool that will do well at my current level, but that will really excel at harder routes once I progress. It's a big investment, so I want to be happy with these things for years to come.

Leashless is a MUST. The option of a leash is nice, but I think i'll be leashless 90% of the time if given the choice.

I like wrist flick, as opposed to arm chops. I tend to like precision more than brute force. This is also why none of the more "normal" BD tools are in this list. I don't like the way they swing at all.

Hammer option is nice, but I'm not sure it's necessary

Thoughts?


tradmanclimbs


Nov 5, 2009, 2:10 PM
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Re: [shoo] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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You have used quarks and nomics. Why should I have to tell you which one to choose. Use you own brain grasshopper Wink


shoo


Nov 5, 2009, 2:13 PM
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It's like when you flip a coin to decide between chocolate and vanilla. When you get flipped vanilla, you know you really wanted chocolate all along anyway.


doons


Nov 5, 2009, 2:23 PM
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Re: [shoo] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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Nomic, duh.


kiwiprincess


Nov 5, 2009, 2:26 PM
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Re: [shoo] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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i do ice all grades and alpine style mixed I love the Quarks and the hammers are great for Pitons.
My husband loves his Nomics and they are awesome for those steep roofy type mixed climbs compared to the Quarks so i guess it depends on what type of climbing you see your self doing.


granite_grrl


Nov 5, 2009, 2:36 PM
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Re: [kiwiprincess] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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kiwiprincess wrote:
i do ice all grades and alpine style mixed I love the Quarks and the hammers are great for Pitons.
My husband loves his Nomics and they are awesome for those steep roofy type mixed climbs compared to the Quarks so i guess it depends on what type of climbing you see your self doing.
Not being able to pound with the Nomics in most certainly one of their biggest problems, but I don't think you can get a decent hammer for the new BD tools either (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).

The great thing about pure leashless is how little the pick shifts from one hand position to the other when climbing steep. Otherwise, if you've just doing pure basic ice other tools used leashless will do you just as well.


shoo


Nov 6, 2009, 8:52 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
kiwiprincess wrote:
i do ice all grades and alpine style mixed I love the Quarks and the hammers are great for Pitons.
My husband loves his Nomics and they are awesome for those steep roofy type mixed climbs compared to the Quarks so i guess it depends on what type of climbing you see your self doing.
Not being able to pound with the Nomics in most certainly one of their biggest problems, but I don't think you can get a decent hammer for the new BD tools either (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).

The great thing about pure leashless is how little the pick shifts from one hand position to the other when climbing steep. Otherwise, if you've just doing pure basic ice other tools used leashless will do you just as well.

Nope, the mini hammer on the BD tool is fixed.

I'm thinking that the new BDs with a set of laser picks might be the way to go. I just haven't been able to see how they swing. Hopefully it will be similar to the Nomics.


cfnubbler


Nov 6, 2009, 9:26 AM
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BD picks are absolutely terrible in comparision with Petzl/Charlet, so I'd discount the Fusions right from the start, personally.

I have both Quarks and Nomics, and unless I'll be pounding pins, the Quarks stay home.

So, if you'll have a single set of tools, IMO, if you place pins with any regularity, I'd go with the Quarks. If you don't place pins, the Nomics all the way.


scotty1974


Nov 6, 2009, 9:37 AM
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Re: [shoo] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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So this is assuming that you'll only be climbing waterfall ice?? Everyone love the nomics, but you'll be restricted to waterfall....BD Vipers are a great leashless tool, well priced and you can use in the mountains. I'd feel a little uncomforatable climbing anything that might neccesitate some plunging.

Just a thought, if you're going to sprend big $$, I'd get a tool that is more well rounded.


shoo


Nov 6, 2009, 9:42 AM
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Re: [scotty1974] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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scotty1974 wrote:
So this is assuming that you'll only be climbing waterfall ice??

No, it's assuming you've read the OP.


ryanb


Nov 6, 2009, 10:16 AM
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Will Gadd posted his thoughts on the new fusion on his blog: http://gravsports.blogspot.com/...blood-first-ice.html.

Of course he is sponsored by bd ...


zealotnoob


Nov 6, 2009, 10:35 AM
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Re: [shoo] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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No love for the Cobras?


scotty1974


Nov 6, 2009, 10:38 AM
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Why is everyone on this site such a sarcastic dick??

Soooo sorry I gave you a opinion of a well rounded tool. Nice people skills..


(This post was edited by scotty1974 on Nov 6, 2009, 10:40 AM)


flying_dutchman


Nov 7, 2009, 12:38 PM
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well, the Fusions are a drytool specialty if i recall(i'm sure the updated ones carry on that tradition) and the nomics blow on anything less than vertical so since you climb WI3 at the moment, go with the quarks. They give more flexibility over the entire grade spectrum from my experience.


tradmanclimbs


Nov 7, 2009, 1:13 PM
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Quarks also do pretty darn good on WI6 and M7 so you most likly will not grow out of them for at least 2 or 3 seasons.


AntinJ


Nov 9, 2009, 2:41 PM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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Shoo - I just picked up the Reactors...leashless-allaround tool and pretty cheap.


wanderlustmd


Nov 9, 2009, 3:36 PM
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Re: [AntinJ] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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Nomics.
Vipers are also pretty gud.


dr_feelgood


Nov 9, 2009, 9:09 PM
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Re: [AntinJ] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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AntinJ wrote:
Shoo - I just picked up the Reactors...leashless-allaround tool and pretty cheap.

Win.


nikmit


Nov 10, 2009, 1:11 AM
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I've climbed with both BD and Petzl tools and the winner is... Grivel.Cool Especially for both ice and mixed climbing. But if you insist on these two brands definitely go for Petzl.


the_climber


Nov 10, 2009, 8:22 AM
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Grivel, and Simond would rank higher on my list than Pretzle or BD.

That said if you really had your heart set on a CM/Petzl tool, the Quark would be the one. Nomics are a specialized beast.

As for BD, the only BD tool I can recommend right now is the new Cobra. I've seen the new Fusion, looks a lot like the Nomic, but haven't used it yet.


shoo


Nov 10, 2009, 8:36 AM
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Re: [AntinJ] Ice tools 2009! [In reply to]
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AntinJ wrote:
Shoo - I just picked up the Reactors...leashless-allaround tool and pretty cheap.

Huh. I've never really come across that one. Looks to be pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in general. I'll have to run by a shop to see how they swing.


Factor2


Nov 10, 2009, 9:29 AM
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grivel


mattb1921


Nov 10, 2009, 10:12 AM
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Ok all you who voted for the new fusion lets here why its such a great tool. I am curious. I say the nomics due to they climb everything well and yes I climb with them in the Alpine. Not having an adze or hammer has not been a big problem. Most of the time I have a shovel for digging caves or chopping ledges.


tradmanclimbs


Nov 10, 2009, 12:52 PM
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The new fusions are so awsome because no ones even used them yet ;)


Alpine07


Nov 10, 2009, 1:23 PM
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I've got the BD Vipers, they are sick tools. I've used the Cobras, but like the Vipers better. Though these are the old design, I dunno too much about the new ones...

Though I have not climbed with them, I love the feel of the Grivel X Monsters, I'll probably pick up a pair when I have some extra cash laying around. They are pretty cheap too.

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