So I'm finally making the plunge and purchasing my very own ice tools. I've pretty well narrowed it down to the above three: Petzl Nomics, the new BD Fusions, and the Petzl Quark, though I'm down for other suggestions.
I've used a variety of tools over the past couple of seasons, including old Charlet Pulsars, Petzl Nomics, Petzl Quarks. I haven't climbed anything harder than WI 3 to date, though I fully intend on pushing that a lot this winter. I'm also looking at getting into mixed as well.
I'm basically looking for a tool that will do well at my current level, but that will really excel at harder routes once I progress. It's a big investment, so I want to be happy with these things for years to come.
Leashless is a MUST. The option of a leash is nice, but I think i'll be leashless 90% of the time if given the choice.
I like wrist flick, as opposed to arm chops. I tend to like precision more than brute force. This is also why none of the more "normal" BD tools are in this list. I don't like the way they swing at all.
Hammer option is nice, but I'm not sure it's necessary
It's like when you flip a coin to decide between chocolate and vanilla. When you get flipped vanilla, you know you really wanted chocolate all along anyway.
i do ice all grades and alpine style mixed I love the Quarks and the hammers are great for Pitons. My husband loves his Nomics and they are awesome for those steep roofy type mixed climbs compared to the Quarks so i guess it depends on what type of climbing you see your self doing.
i do ice all grades and alpine style mixed I love the Quarks and the hammers are great for Pitons. My husband loves his Nomics and they are awesome for those steep roofy type mixed climbs compared to the Quarks so i guess it depends on what type of climbing you see your self doing.
Not being able to pound with the Nomics in most certainly one of their biggest problems, but I don't think you can get a decent hammer for the new BD tools either (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).
The great thing about pure leashless is how little the pick shifts from one hand position to the other when climbing steep. Otherwise, if you've just doing pure basic ice other tools used leashless will do you just as well.
i do ice all grades and alpine style mixed I love the Quarks and the hammers are great for Pitons. My husband loves his Nomics and they are awesome for those steep roofy type mixed climbs compared to the Quarks so i guess it depends on what type of climbing you see your self doing.
Not being able to pound with the Nomics in most certainly one of their biggest problems, but I don't think you can get a decent hammer for the new BD tools either (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).
The great thing about pure leashless is how little the pick shifts from one hand position to the other when climbing steep. Otherwise, if you've just doing pure basic ice other tools used leashless will do you just as well.
Nope, the mini hammer on the BD tool is fixed.
I'm thinking that the new BDs with a set of laser picks might be the way to go. I just haven't been able to see how they swing. Hopefully it will be similar to the Nomics.
BD picks are absolutely terrible in comparision with Petzl/Charlet, so I'd discount the Fusions right from the start, personally.
I have both Quarks and Nomics, and unless I'll be pounding pins, the Quarks stay home.
So, if you'll have a single set of tools, IMO, if you place pins with any regularity, I'd go with the Quarks. If you don't place pins, the Nomics all the way.
So this is assuming that you'll only be climbing waterfall ice?? Everyone love the nomics, but you'll be restricted to waterfall....BD Vipers are a great leashless tool, well priced and you can use in the mountains. I'd feel a little uncomforatable climbing anything that might neccesitate some plunging.
Just a thought, if you're going to sprend big $$, I'd get a tool that is more well rounded.
well, the Fusions are a drytool specialty if i recall(i'm sure the updated ones carry on that tradition) and the nomics blow on anything less than vertical so since you climb WI3 at the moment, go with the quarks. They give more flexibility over the entire grade spectrum from my experience.
I've climbed with both BD and Petzl tools and the winner is... Grivel. Especially for both ice and mixed climbing. But if you insist on these two brands definitely go for Petzl.
Shoo - I just picked up the Reactors...leashless-allaround tool and pretty cheap.
Huh. I've never really come across that one. Looks to be pretty much exactly what I'm looking for in general. I'll have to run by a shop to see how they swing.
Ok all you who voted for the new fusion lets here why its such a great tool. I am curious. I say the nomics due to they climb everything well and yes I climb with them in the Alpine. Not having an adze or hammer has not been a big problem. Most of the time I have a shovel for digging caves or chopping ledges.
I've got the BD Vipers, they are sick tools. I've used the Cobras, but like the Vipers better. Though these are the old design, I dunno too much about the new ones...
Though I have not climbed with them, I love the feel of the Grivel X Monsters, I'll probably pick up a pair when I have some extra cash laying around. They are pretty cheap too.
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Especially for both ice and mixed climbing. But if you insist on these two brands definitely go for Petzl. 
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