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johnwesely
Nov 12, 2009, 4:13 AM
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This is a response to JT512's thread about that awful anchor.
Has anybody here ever had a piece of gear in an anchor pull out? If so, what about the rigging of the rest of the anchor saved your life? Do you think that if your anchor was rigged in the exact way the anchor is Jay's thread, it would have failed?
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whipper
Nov 12, 2009, 4:31 AM
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NO, never. I hope that no one else has either. that is the number one thing...if you build your anchors where each piece is trucker, serene is not needed!
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foodgeek
Nov 12, 2009, 4:45 AM
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Nope. Unless you count the girth-hitched cliff bar I wedged in a crack to freak out my partner...
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ptlong
Nov 12, 2009, 4:48 AM
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Not pulled, but I had a piece just up and fall out one time.
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robdotcalm
Nov 12, 2009, 5:10 AM
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No. I've had a lot of things go wrong over the years, but not that.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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fxgranite
Nov 12, 2009, 5:25 AM
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whipper wrote: NO, never. I hope that no one else has either. that is the number one thing...if you build your anchors where each piece is trucker, serene is not needed!
You climb enough and eventually you run into the situation where you're lucky to get 1 good piece.
That said, the only issue I've run into is a nut working it's way out because my partner clipped directly to it when he reached the belay and then pulled on it from a bad angle. Never had an anchor piece blow under load.
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scotchie
Nov 12, 2009, 5:54 AM
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Nope.
But I've seen a piece pull out of someone else's anchor close by. Other 2 pieces didn't budge. Still it was spooky.
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ryanb
Nov 12, 2009, 7:51 AM
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Yes.
I pulled a purple or blue (0 or 1) metolius fcu placed by by very experienced (multiple el cap in a days) partner. It was part of a semi hanging belay rigged with a cordallet off three pieces in a thin crack on a 5.11 alpine route in the north cascades.
It pulled while we were shifting around handing gear back and forth. May have been due to u stem levering or just grainy dirty alpine granite.
The other two pieces and the extension free anchor saved us.
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subantz
Nov 12, 2009, 7:52 AM
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I was getting a piece, then pulled the anchor!
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healyje
Nov 12, 2009, 10:57 AM
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Haven't had a piece pull, but BITD when we were climbing on just a set of stoppers and a set of hexs a few times we ended up at either the end of the rope or at a belay with just one or two pieces left. Dubious anchors were way more common than they are today and a under those situations a properly stanced belay meant a lot more than just getting comfortable. In fact, unless it was a hanging belay I rarely trusted or weighted anchors.
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bill413
Nov 12, 2009, 2:25 PM
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I had a piece pull, recently. Three piece anchor, rigged with an equalette. Then clipped in short to one of the pieces to reposition myself. Danced around too much while belaying and wiggled the short piece out.
Equalettes work.
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sungam
Dec 5, 2009, 8:52 PM
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ptlong wrote: Not pulled, but I had a piece just up and fall out one time.
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chadnsc
Dec 6, 2009, 5:32 AM
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No, but while belaying up my second I did have a nut pull. The nut was one of three pieces of gear protecting a short traverse. Needless to say my second was not happy with me. I should have extended the nut with or used a tricam instead. 
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majid_sabet
Dec 6, 2009, 6:12 AM
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johnwesely wrote: This is a response to JT512's thread about that awful anchor. Has anybody here ever had a piece of gear in an anchor pull out? If so, what about the rigging of the rest of the anchor saved your life? Do you think that if your anchor was rigged in the exact way the anchor is Jay's thread, it would have failed?
you need to build your anchor in a way that even if you one or two, you are still safe on FF2
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Dec 6, 2009, 6:13 AM)
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stamplis
Dec 6, 2009, 6:36 AM
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Not a real exciting story (fortunately!) but I've blown an anchor piece at a hanging belay - Had a 3-piece anchor tied off with a cordelette. Was lazy and decided not to place another piece and just clipped my etrier into the top piece of the anchor. Stepped on it and Pop! Suddenly we're hanging on two pieces. Scary for a second but the rest of the anchor was solid. Quickly reset that nut and tried again, without blowing it out.
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shimanilami
Dec 6, 2009, 8:02 AM
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Most of us aren't into 5 piece anchors, Majid.
With that said, I expect every piece in my anchors to be capable of sustaining a significant fall. Is it FF2, who knows? But bomber for sure. Otherwise, why bother including that piece in the anchor in the first place?
By the way, are you back in Bay?
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billcoe_
Dec 6, 2009, 9:36 PM
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healyje wrote: Haven't had a piece pull, but BITD when we were climbing on just a set of stoppers and a set of hexs a few times we ended up at either the end of the rope or at a belay with just one or two pieces left. Dubious anchors were way more common than they are today and a under those situations a properly stanced belay meant a lot more than just getting comfortable. In fact, unless it was a hanging belay I rarely trusted or weighted anchors.
What he said, but I'm more trusting.
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petsfed
Dec 6, 2009, 11:31 PM
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Way back when I definitely didn't know better, I set up to solo-aid up Fingers in a Lightsocket (in Indian Creek) just to get a few pieces back. I was too proud to down aid, so I set the anchor and started up. As I started to rappel down from the top, all of my lousy aid technique (hanging on the rope, rather than my daisy chain like I know now) came back to haunt me. One of the pieces had walked out and I felt that horrifying shift just as soon as I was out of easy reach of the anchor.
In retrospect, I should've done a few things differently:
1) left a popular 11+ finger crack at a very popular crag to people capable of climbing it rather than plugging it up for hours with my ridiculous stunts
2) down aided (or up aided) with a real, breathing belayer rather than solo-aid it
3) set a first piece that tensioned the anchor so that the cams would be unable to walk in the first place
4) rappelled on two strands with an atc, rather than slingshot it and rap on one strand with the gri-gri
I think the price I paid, namely humiliation in front of a bunch of other climbers, was vastly preferable to what could've happened. I wish I'd learned my lesson without leaving the ground though.
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chezdillon
Dec 6, 2009, 11:42 PM
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Never happened to me, but I watched a guy years ago place a 1 piece anchor and have it blow from a lead fall.
He was climbing the dangler at the gunks. He placed a single #5 camalot passively and in the wrong direction of pull right next to a shiny bolted anchor.
He proceeded to traverse to the right about 15 feet, place a piece, and head out the roof. He got one more piece in before he fell. The anchor blew, his partner was pulled to the first piece of gear and the leader fell head first on to a small ledge about 20 feet below the roof.
He had a helmet on, but lost consciousness for a short time and was bleeding from his head. We (myself and other shocked observers) got them both back to the big ledge and bolt anchor. The leader became alert enough for us to get them both down.
After it was all over I turned pretty green and called it a day. I sincerely hope it never happens to anyone. They were very lucky. It could have been much worse.
- J
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sungam
Dec 6, 2009, 11:45 PM
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chezdillon wrote: Never happened to me, but I watched a guy years ago place a 1 piece anchor and have it blow from a lead fall. He was climbing the dangler at the gunks. He placed a single #5 camalot passively and in the wrong direction of pull right next to a shiny bolted anchor. He proceeded to traverse to the right about 15 feet, place a piece, and head out the roof. He got one more piece in before he fell. The anchor blew, his partner was pulled to the first piece of gear and the leader fell head first on to a small ledge about 20 feet below the roof. He had a helmet on, but lost consciousness for a short time and was bleeding from his head. We (myself and other shocked observers) got them both back to the big ledge and bolt anchor. The leader became alert enough for us to get them both down. After it was all over I turned pretty green and called it a day. I sincerely hope it never happens to anyone. They were very lucky. It could have been much worse. - J
BTW, how're things? I hope all is well :)
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chezdillon
Dec 6, 2009, 11:52 PM
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sungam wrote: BTW, how're things? I hope all is well :)
Can't complain. It was just warm and dry enough to get in some pitches today...
- J
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sungam
Dec 6, 2009, 11:57 PM
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chezdillon wrote: sungam wrote: BTW, how're things? I hope all is well :) Can't complain. It was just warm and dry enough to get in some pitches today... - J
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majid_sabet
Dec 7, 2009, 12:44 AM
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shimanilami wrote: Most of us aren't into 5 piece anchors, Majid. With that said, I expect every piece in my anchors to be capable of sustaining a significant fall. Is it FF2, who knows? But bomber for sure. Otherwise, why bother including that piece in the anchor in the first place? By the way, are you back in Bay?
Every piece is not rated to handle an FF2. try to fall on few copperheads and there we go, your anchor is gone so bigger the better but this is personal issue rater than an standard.I climb with gear and two minutes extra and adding one or two more does not kill me but a massive fall will.
I got back two weeks ago. We should meet and go for lunch one of these days or drive to valley for a day.
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milesenoell
Dec 7, 2009, 12:50 AM
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chezdillon wrote: Never happened to me, but I watched a guy years ago place a 1 piece anchor and have it blow from a lead fall. He was climbing the dangler at the gunks. He placed a single #5 camalot passively and in the wrong direction of pull right next to a shiny bolted anchor. - J
When you say he placed the Camalot passively you mean un-retracted and just sitting on the flat side of the lobes, right? I've read that you could do that but never seen it done. Doesn't sound like a great idea, especially for that situation.
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chezdillon
Dec 7, 2009, 1:06 AM
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In reply to: When you say he placed the Camalot passively you mean un-retracted and just sitting on the flat side of the lobes, right?
Correct. The crack opened towards the back. He retracted it to get it in the crack and then let it open fully once it was in the crack.
- J
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